I plan to look at a used chainsaw tomorrow that the owner states is a Stihl 038a. I can find information on the "s" and "m" versions of this series saw but not the "a". How can I identify what saw this is? If it is in fact an "a" are they any good?
Stihl 038a?
- Thread starter beeser
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
038AV
That I can't answer I don't own one but I know other guys that have them and they say there a good saw .
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2019
- Messages
- 4,574
- Reaction score
- 9,253
My guess is the current owner neglected to add the V after the A.
The saw is most likely and 038AV- the A for anti and V for vibe.
They used a lot of abbreviations in model numbers- AV- AVE (electronic ignition)- AVEQ (quickstop chain brake) and the like.
The saw is most likely and 038AV- the A for anti and V for vibe.
They used a lot of abbreviations in model numbers- AV- AVE (electronic ignition)- AVEQ (quickstop chain brake) and the like.
Yes, the 038AV is an excellent chain saw and I should never have sold mine:
I wish I had it today.
I wish I had it today.
I have an 038AV...love that saw!!
After a few failed attempts to start the saw I pulled the plug and discovered it wasn't getting any gas despite with the choke applied. It did fire up after pouring some gas directly into the cylinder but wouldn't stay running and wouldn't start again without more direct gas. It seems the problem is with the carburetor, maybe the float valve. I may let the gas sit in the tank a day or so to see if it loosens up the valve. I have no idea how long the saw sat unused. If that doesn't work I should probably dig deeper. The good news is the engine seems to have good compression and it's delivering a spark. Any other suggestion on how to proceed?
I've had my 038 for 20 years which I bought on a professional arborist's recommendation to do more work than my 032.
I put it on the back shelf 5 years ago when I got a Huski 565
Last year I put a new 20" bar on the 038 and general service
Now I use it twice as much as the Huski and find it to have more low down grunt for our hardwoods here in Oz.It is a tad heavy but like the old 032 it is built like a brick shithouse to last.
For a 20 yo saw it rocks.
I put it on the back shelf 5 years ago when I got a Huski 565
Last year I put a new 20" bar on the 038 and general service
Now I use it twice as much as the Huski and find it to have more low down grunt for our hardwoods here in Oz.It is a tad heavy but like the old 032 it is built like a brick shithouse to last.
For a 20 yo saw it rocks.
I find that when I have any gas or carburetor problems...I just buy a rebuild kit to start with, that usually fixes the problems...I don't recall any saws that have a float or needle valve in these carbs...It seems that the small diaphragm in the carb tends to dry out and fail. These carb kits sell for around 12 bucks or so, they're cheep. I wold start there.
As a side note...I usually take the body of the carb to my local small engine shop...where I know the guy...and he puts it in his ultrasonic cleaner for 30 - 45 minutes...this'll clean all the small galleries inside the carb...then the new kit will make this carb like new.
Over the years I have learned not to soak or ultrasonic carbs that have check valves and or non removeable jets found on hand held small engines but instead spray wash them with carb cleaner or non chlorinated brake clean before then again during disassembly then shake dry or turn the can upside down to use the propellant, never compressed air. If you have the bing carb the needle may be sticking in its seat, it has a plastic needle lever or the diaphragms may be hardened, torn, warped. I like to try using a Q tip preferably a paper one with the end cut off that it twist against the seat. I have also used mechanical pencils by extending the lead just long enough to reach the seat to rub against it and also feel for wear. Carefully compare the needle in the kit you get against the one removed, I have found half of the aftermarket carb kits have the wrong one but its very difficult to see the differences if you are not looking hard for them. The fuel hose or impulse hose may be rotten, cracked or even blocked. On saws this old Its best to replace every section of the fuel system for longevity .
I got one in march at a yard sale for 25 bucks that looked like it was run every day for a decade then sat on a shed floor for another 20 years. I put 160 bucks in parts into it and did some simple intake porting, changed the intake boot and carb setup and the thing became a beast. I test ran it to break it in and dial in the carb on a monkey puzzle tree trunk down the road a arborist was working on removing. It cut faster and sounded better than the guys newer 661, I can lean on it much harder in a cut than newer 70cc saws without bogging it or causing clutch slippage.
I got one in march at a yard sale for 25 bucks that looked like it was run every day for a decade then sat on a shed floor for another 20 years. I put 160 bucks in parts into it and did some simple intake porting, changed the intake boot and carb setup and the thing became a beast. I test ran it to break it in and dial in the carb on a monkey puzzle tree trunk down the road a arborist was working on removing. It cut faster and sounded better than the guys newer 661, I can lean on it much harder in a cut than newer 70cc saws without bogging it or causing clutch slippage.
FabianRW
ArboristSite Member
I've got the 038 av magnum and it's fantastic, just an absolute beast and not too heavy. It'll run a 30" 404 bar but I usually have a canon 28" 3/8 .050 lo pro bar and use it for milling.
I'd get the super or magnum version as they weigh the same but have more hp like a modern ms saw. But simple and reliable, easy to fix and maintain, some parts are exchangeable with the modern saws too like the chain cover.
I'd get the super or magnum version as they weigh the same but have more hp like a modern ms saw. But simple and reliable, easy to fix and maintain, some parts are exchangeable with the modern saws too like the chain cover.
OP here again ... Thanks all for the help and advice. The saw is actually a 038AV Super. My plans now are to remove the saw from the Ripsaw assembly. That'll make it easier to do the work on the saw itself. A carburetor repair kit is the first thing to get along with the other fuel related parts as suggested by member cookies. It seems aftermarket parts get a bad rap. Should I stick with OEM and where would be a good source for them?
Verify no cracked rubber parts. Known for pulse hose, fuel hose and intake boot issues. Vacuum and pressure test for bottom end. Hopefully a Bing carburetor. Set inlet lever height by tapping on inlet needle seat with a clean, well fitting punch. When you get it right, you will love the torque.
Hey Cookies, I have been cleaning carbs...only the real bad ones for years in ultrasonic cleaners...I'm just wondering what the issue is with this, as you said you've learned over the years not to do this...just wondering why...
The ultrasonic cleaner my buddy has uses dishwasher detergent and works really great...like I say...just wondering what I missing here.
Thanks for any advise on this.
Far too often they damage internal check valves
I separated the saw from the Ripsaw then disassembled a good part of the saw itself. Most of the rubber isolators were shot and a few small parts were missing. After giving everything a good cleaning and inspection I ordered quite a few parts online, most if not all of them OEM. New seals for the carburetor were picked up locally and installed. The needle valve and seat looked to be in good shape so that was left as is. The piston and cylinder looked to be in good shape based on what I could see from the intake, exhaust and spark plug hole. Surprisingly the top of the piston had minimal carbon buildup. I should have all of the ordered parts in a week and have the saw put back together soon after. Hopefully I end up with a good running saw.
I have two 038 mags, they’re a solid workhorse of a saw. 72cc of old school grunt.
The 038 is back together with some new parts but it still doesn't run. As before, a little gas injected into the cylinder enables it to fire up but only briefly. It seems something is amiss with the carburetor. The only thing done with it is a new seal kit. The needle valve looked OK so it was left as is. Any suggestions on what might be wrong? Does the carb. need a complete overhaul?
