stihl 044 muffler

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Can someone post a picture of the front dual port cover for the 044. I have a Walkerized dual port & was noticing that most of the paint has burnt off the front cover only after a few hours of running. Its only set at around 11,800 rpm so I know its not running lean w/ excessive heat. Was going to repaint it with POR 15 Black Velvet heat resistant paint but sence were here maybe I'll make it into a 3 port instead & re paint the whole thing. www.por15.com New Jersey. Seems to be holding up good on the exhaust headders on the vehicles. Should I do it or should some back pressure be maintained ?:deadhorse:
 
Maybe they should change name from cheapstihlparts to wrongstihlparts..
Or you can try to get the bolts in anyway and force it all together. Everything goes with vaseline.....
 
Peter,,,,,

Maybe they should change name from cheapstihlparts to wrongstihlparts..
Or you can try to get the bolts in anyway and force it all together. Everything goes with vaseline.....

Maybe you should change your name too Richard Cranium?????? :monkey: :monkey: :monkey: :notrolls2:
 
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I believe I have at least a couple of complete mufflers laying around. I think at least one of them may be modified to simulate a dual port....but I cannot remember exactly how the worksmanship was. Just let me know.
 
Can someone post a picture of the front dual port cover for the 044.

Here ya go...

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Kevin
 
Yup... Stihl makes a limiter cap puller... about 5 bucks. Then trim the tabs off and put back in place. Don't use a drywall screw or anything eles... you will ruin the cap.

Gary
 
Good post Gary,,,

Yes... the caps have to go back in. There is no spring to hold the tension so the screw won't move. The cap keeps it from turning.

Gary

Junky I used to snatch them out with a dry wall screw and such for years before I learned better on this site,,, thanks to lakeside,,,, Garys right too since the new style EPA carbs have no tension springs on the screw shanks, the tab/less limiter caps act like dampers to hold your adjustment better than just chunking them,,, plus once you remove the tab and re-basline your settings you can adjust all you want,,,,, the threads on the puller are left handed after you get your puller take your carb adjusting screw driver and turn the limiter cap (gently) all the way to the left, if you look closely it has a tab on the outside of the red cap,,, there is a little slot that is just the same size as the tab in the carb body slot,,, that tab needs to be in line with the slot,,, when you can see it lined up, insert the puller into the red cap and it will start comming out on the pullers threads when you get it about half way out pull gently straight out and it will come out of the carb,,,,

Once you have it out take a razor blade and cut the tab off,,,, I have a little exacto knife in my tool box just for trimming them off go ahead and pull both,, L & H then set them aside,,,, gently screw both carb adjust screw in till they bottom out and then back out 1 full turn,,,, then make sure your saw has @ least a half tank of fresh proper octane mix and the bar oil is at least half way full,,,, start your saw and warm it up good then adjust your idle screw out till the chain begans to run, then turn it in till the chain just stops,, then start with the L screw next,,,, adjust L screw in till the moto starts to stumble, note mentally where the mark is on the driver handle,,, then turn screw out till motor starts to stumble again noting where the mark is,,,, now turn screw back into the mid point between your mental adjustment points and jazz the throttle it should accelerate nicely at that point,,, you may have to tweak it a bit either side of that mid point to get that crisp acceleration and it will be close be close you may have to readjust the idle screw a bit if the chain is creeping when you get it close make small adjustments you can then install your tabless limiter cap on the L screw... You will need a tach to do the H screw tha whem you get it set to 13.5K install your tabless H limiter cap,, to put the limitercaps back on I take the limiter caps and thread them back on to the removal tool just a few turns,,, line up the adjustment screw slots the push them in and gently screw them out remembering that they are left handed thread!!!!!

Good luck!!!!!! Junky :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
 
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Thanks for the procedure. Do I have to adjust the H speed before putting the cap on or could I put it 1 turn out put the cap on and adjust later(I don't have a tach, my dealer was going to help me)?

Evan
 
Thanks for the procedure. Do I have to adjust the H speed before putting the cap on or could I put it 1 turn out put the cap on and adjust later(I don't have a tach, my dealer was going to help me)?

Evan

No, once you cut the limiter tabs off, you can adjust as rich as the screw/needle will allow after the remainder of the modified cap is reinstalled.
 
Thanks for the procedure. Do I have to adjust the H speed before putting the cap on or could I put it 1 turn out put the cap on and adjust later(I don't have a tach, my dealer was going to help me)?

Evan

Nope actually once you get the tabs removed as Sperho stated you can put them back on,,,, I just wait till I get my settings done and then put them in to help hold them tight,,,,, Just my way of thinking,,,,I prefer the old school adjustment carbs,,,getting harder to find,,,,:givebeer:
 

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