Stihl 044 not turning over

[Chanakos]

Hi guys
I recently picked up an older 044 which was running okay for a while until I started tuning the carburetor. I was trying to get the four stroking sound but couldn't get it quite right and now it's just won't turn over at all. After sitting a couple days afterwards, it just won't fire. Been trying for the past couple of days, but the closest I've gotten a few times was one brief high rev like it was going to start, then instantly died.
I don't understand what could have changed in the past couple of weeks owning it without changing or removing anything else. Just tweaking the carb.. The hoses seem fine and ive been checking the spark which has the correct gap and sparks every pull.
I've been starting with the H and L screws clockwise with about 3/4 - 2 turns counterclockwise and have fiddled with the LA with no luck. The manual said to turn H screw all the way counterclockwise to "stop" but there is no stop point counterclockwise. So I've been trying a number of combinations without luck.
Any instruction would be warmly welcome. We depend on wood for heating and cooking here so I'm rather pressed for time. I don't have much money to invest into it right now, until I sell wood or my construction site starts up again.
Regards,
Dylan

 

[Crispexx]

Are you able to check the flywheel to see if you sheered a key?


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[Chanakos]

Are you able to check the flywheel to see if you sheered a key?


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I just looked. One of the flywheel "fins" has a tiny chip off the edge pointing in the direction it turns..counterclockwise. A really tiny piece is missing

 

[Crispexx]

Are you able to remove the flywheel from the crank shaft? The crank shaft will have a cut out (key way) that a little almost half circle piece of metal (key) sits in that little cut out. Sometimes if your working on a saw and having to pull and pull and pull you can break that little “half circle” and then the timing can be off and it won’t fire when the piston is in the correct position.


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[Chanakos]

Are you able to remove the flywheel from the crank shaft? The crank shaft will have a cut out (key way) that a little almost half circle piece of metal (key) sits in that little cut out. Sometimes if your working on a saw and having to pull and pull and pull you can break that little “half circle” and then the timing can be off and it won’t fire when the piston is in the correct position.


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Thanks man
What can I use other than rope to stick into the cylinder to stop the piston and remove flywheel? I tried before to remove the clutch to check the oil pump and it cut the biggest rope I have in half.
Could this really be the problem though?
I figured it must be fuel related as I've only changed the carb settings since it was running. By this logic, it should have turned over before I had to pull it so many times to break this key, no?

 

[Crispexx]

It’s something that happened to me when I was working on my old 044, I was fiddling with the carb trying to get the settings correct when it suddenly wouldn’t start anymore and would only occasionally “pop”. Turns out I had sheered the key and the timing was off.


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[Crispexx]

But to go back to your carb inquiry, make sure your idle screw isn’t turned in to far. Personally I unscrew the idle screw until it BARELY touches the butterfly then set my L and H to factory setting and try to get it to run without the idle screw in or very lightly screwed in.


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[Chanakos]

Okay. The flywheel is removed the same way as the clutch right?
If this key is broken I assume it has to be replaced?

 

[Crispexx]

Okay. The flywheel is removed the same way as the clutch right?
If this key is broken I assume it has to be replaced?

Not the same as the clutch, there is a nut that screws and unscrews like a normal nut does, as in lefty loosely righty tighty. Unscrew the nut (to the left) then you will have to pull the flywheel off. If you’ve never done this and have never seen anyone do this I would recommend you watch some YouTube videos so you have a good idea what your actually trying to do.


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[Crispexx]

IF the key is broken it will need to be replaced, one common misconception is people think the key holds the flywheel in place on the crankshaft. The key only lines up the flywheel and the crank timing so the spark plug doesn’t go off to early or to late. The flywheel is actually held on by friction and held in place with that nut.


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[Chanakos]

Thank you for your help
I can't use YouTube because I have a very poor internet connection.
When I crank the flywheel bolt left to loosen the whole thing turns. Don't I have to block the piston in the cylinder?

 

[Old2stroke]

Before you get misled by things that are not likely the problem, you should determine if you just have a carb issue by pulling the plug and seeing if it is wet or dry when it won't start. MANY no start issues are just caused by a BADLY flooded engine (wet plug) and a completely dry plug can mean a restriction in the fuel delivery to the carb or a problem with the carb itself. What is your starting procedure? Are you sure the throttle is being held in the "fast idle" position where the throttle is held partly open, a cold chainsaw engine will almost never start with the throttle closed.

 

[Chanakos]

I've been checking the plug often and wiping off the fuel mix, putting it back in then full choke or closed throttle.
I didn't know that about cold starting but when I tried starting before in half open or fast idle position is sort of chugged and sounded like it was flooding [more].
Last night I pulled the muffler off and there was a small pool of fuel at the bottom. Cleaned it out and kept trying this morning with no change.
I just feel like I somehow screwed up the carburetor settings.
The Stihl manual I have for the 044 says
"Turn H screw counterclockwise up to the stop ie 3/4 turn from max lean setting"
This confused me from the start because
the H screw counterclockwise will never reach a "stop" but completely unscrew.
Is it that the limiter caps were removed by someone in the past? Or is this manual for another 044 model...
Additionally please help me with setting the LA screw for starting. I can't find much information about positioning it and the manual says nothing apart from what obviously pertains to how its shipped from the factory which is of no use to me now.

 

[irhunter]

The Stihl manual I have for the 044 says
"Turn H screw counterclockwise up to the stop ie 3/4 turn from max lean setting"
This confused me from the start because
the H screw counterclockwise will never reach a "stop" but completely unscrew.

I have that manual, too. I think they got the text in the manual wrong...and, the little arrows in the illustration correct.

I would turn both H and L screws gently to full clockwise...and, back them off as indicated in the manual.

For the purposes of starting the saw, with the lever set to choke, and then hi idle after it pops...it doesn't matter where the TA screw is set.

Roy

 

[grizz55chev]

If the plug is wet, it's flooded, try starting with choke off and full throttle. The needle settings should be 1 turn out on both from full closed. Might take quite a few pulls to get it to pop off.

 

[user 122190]

Back out the jet screws completely. Sounds like they might have stripped in the soft metal of the carb body.

 

[Chanakos]

I seem to keep flooding it with or without the choke. I've tried backing the screws all the way out and also in like irhunter said with no change.
How can I overcome flooding and how long do I have to wait after I pull the plug and wipe it off before there's merit to trying to pull it over again?

 

[lone wolf]

If the plug is wet, it's flooded, try starting with choke off and full throttle. The needle settings should be 1 turn out on both from full closed. Might take quite a few pulls to get it to pop off.

Yup ! And spray clean the spark plug and blow if off real good ,or try new, then pump the gas out of the cyl with the pull starter. And try again.

 

[president]

I just looked. One of the flywheel "fins" has a tiny chip off the edge pointing in the direction it turns..counterclockwise. A really tiny piece is missing

could be the coil is loose and contacting the flywheel
on rotation

 

[Chanakos]

Thanks guys
Which coil do you mean? Under the clutch? I don't understand how that's supposed to be configured at all. There's a place for a bolt to seemingly screw into on the underside of the saw that was missing when I got it. Seems pretty worn/bent and always get covered in oil due to the oiler plate needing replacement.