I am pretty sure that is just the heat treatment of the conrod during manufacture, if it overheated to cause that colour now, the bearings would be crunchy toast crumbs.
Stihl 044
- Thread starter babaoriley
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yep, oiler worm drive gear is most likely overheated to the point where it will become brittle so replace that, clutch springs, and I am assuming your splitting the case, so seals and bearings will need to be done too. The nylon ball cage in the bearing can be damaged when they overheat like this.
huskydave
Addicted to ArboristSite
this.
huskydave
Addicted to ArboristSite
I would sell it or keep it for parts and look for something in better condition or get a few more carcasses and make one good one with the best parts and then you have some spares that you might need someday.
That was the first thing I thought of when I saw the pic .
huskydave
Addicted to ArboristSite
could be or the bearing got hot from lack of oil or big air leak. I have seen that on a lot of snowmobiles that had torn carb boots some saws and outboards I tore down looked like this. the clutch drum was so hot it melted the plastic near it on this saw, that could be related. When I see OEM rods heat treated from the factory the whole rod was put in the oven and the color is the same all the way down. A file test on that end of the rod will show if it is hard still or not. The file should skate off, if it digs in then the rod has been annealed.
Totally agreed, it’s better to sell it the way it is than pouring money into it. you can get a nice running one for the same price or less. I bought it too cheap, and now I’ve found a cheap oem option for it, so we’ll see!
Bought a used oem piston and cylinder and a brand new oem gasket and seal kit. Do I need new wrist pin?
huskydave
Addicted to ArboristSite
I wouldn't recommend reusing the pin or the clips but often times you can, its up to you. If you can feel grooves in it toss it though.
when I get one that was roached from heat I replace the pin, clips and wrist pin bearing...remove the crank and wash it in diesel, blow it out with air then brakeclean then air again (repeat if needed) then drip 2 stroke oil into the crank bearing then feel for complete smoothness free spinning the rod and by hand pushing on it in a 360 degree range. My personal preference is to change out plastic caged bearings for steel caged if possible. That melted brake cover was scorched by the clutch drum, it likely melted the crank seal causing the self destruction.
That’s awesome cookies, I’ll do that. I think that pretty much sums up what happened to this saw.
thompsoncustom
ArboristSite Guru
If I had that saw in that shape I would defiantly make it into a 044/460 hybrid.
Ex port picture in post #4 shows a very oily ex port and what may be carbon scoring.
Pictures in post #28 show top of piston covered with oily carbon residue, and ex side carbon scored. Maybe they were running wrong type of oil (outboard or injection type) or wrong ratio and too rich.
Husky Piston Failure Analysis Guide 2006. Note that the captions on the pictures are mixed up. Top one is ex side, bottom one is intake.
I've seen clutch covers starting to melt like that, but not to that extent, on 026 saws. There was so much debris caked under the cover it caused the friction and heated the cover up. Lets see what under the cover and clutch.
Pictures in post #28 show top of piston covered with oily carbon residue, and ex side carbon scored. Maybe they were running wrong type of oil (outboard or injection type) or wrong ratio and too rich.
Husky Piston Failure Analysis Guide 2006. Note that the captions on the pictures are mixed up. Top one is ex side, bottom one is intake.
I've seen clutch covers starting to melt like that, but not to that extent, on 026 saws. There was so much debris caked under the cover it caused the friction and heated the cover up. Lets see what under the cover and clutch.
Thank you, that’s a closer reason why it’s messed up I think. Will post pics of the clutch and stuff.
Depends on the condition of it.
Stihl Learning
ArboristSite Member
If it was an original 10mm, it would have slanted cooling fins on the top of the cylinder.
OEM piston kits come with a pin and quality circlips.
Here is my situation. I’ve been working with these saws like couple weeks, the biggest job I’ve done was cleaning the carburetor and adjustment, I did well, got my 009L and 025 running great now. This saw is something I wanna dig deeper like actual engine mild build and stuff. I bought it for $15, used oem piston and cylinder and brand new gasket and seal kit cost me $150, so I have $165 into this saw. If it doesn’t work I still can turn around and get my money back. It’s a win win for me. If I go extra mile, get all the stuff new and screw things up, it’s not ideal anymore.
How you get that eclip off? I usually use a long nose pliers, but it doesn't work this time.
Attachments
I generally use a small standard screwdriver and insert into the notch and then gently twist with little down pressure. Keeping in mind to keep a finger on it when it decides to launch across the room. It becomes a feel thing after a time or two.
