Stihl 044

Rugged made
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lone wolf said:
I used to duct tape the E clips for Dirt Bike carb needles to the inside of the Air Box . I suppose you could figure out a safe place on a saw to do the same.
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That brings back memories. About a year ago I sold my CR250 to a buddy that collects bikes, the younger kids who never got to ride a 2 stroke bike sure did miss some thrills.
 
OP, when you get the new/used P/C assy inspect it and check P/C clearance with feeler gauges. New is ~0.002-0.0025". If it's getting near 0.005 piston is worn.

Make sure you get a new set of rings and check gap on those too. OEM or Cabers.

Did you ever trying cleaning up the transfer inside the original cylinder?
 
Mad Professor said:
I'm still a fan of the simple fuel line with grub screws vents.
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Many things have changed through the yeas and the venting systems are one I get asked often about, why does pressure build up in the tank of my saw. When those types come here to self research they generally take any advice they read and run with that so I generally correct any advice given that does not pertain to todays more modern saws, the kind most newbies would be using. The older two way venting systems worked just fine but you know who mandated that gasoline vapors had to be stopped from venting into the atmosphere so we got sealed off gassing vents to satisfy the big EPA The grub screws in a fuel line vents had their failings also but in general were easier to diagnose, simple to replace , I came across a new OEM one in my spares just today as I am working over a carb that has no low idle circuit. Got out the carb jet drills and popped out the Welsh plug. Found two orifices plugged and one restricted badly. The drills cleaned them up nicely, snapped in a new Welsh plug and flattened it in the drill press, tests fine now with the Mighty Vac, ran it on the saw and it has full adjust ability.
 
pioneerguy600 said:
Many things have changed through the yeas and the venting systems are one I get asked often about, why does pressure build up in the tank of my saw. When those types come here to self research they generally take any advice they read and run with that so I generally correct any advice given that does not pertain to todays more modern saws, the kind most newbies would be using. The older two way venting systems worked just fine but you know who mandated that gasoline vapors had to be stopped from venting into the atmosphere so we got sealed off gassing vents to satisfy the big EPA The grub screws in a fuel line vents had their failings also but in general were easier to diagnose, simple to replace , I came across a new OEM one in my spares just today as I am working over a carb that has no low idle circuit. Got out the carb jet drills and popped out the Welsh plug. Found two orifices plugged and one restricted badly. The drills cleaned them up nicely, snapped in a new Welsh plug and flattened it in the drill press, tests fine now with the Mighty Vac, ran it on the saw and it has full adjust ability.
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I still run saws with the fuel line/grub screw vents. I've only had to replace a few when the line finally disintegrated after 30-40 years. Started leaking fuel if tipped sideways/upside down.

I got a stock of I think Echo bulk fuel line that fits the tank nipple and the screws. $10 got enough line to do many saws.

I've had newer saws that would refuse to start when they get really hot. I suspect this may be pressure build up in the tank that pops off the needle inside the carb and floods it. Had to take out the plug and clean it, then starts right back up.......
 
I have removed every possible screws and bolts, the saw should come apart easily but it doesn’t. Then I found one more bolt/screw that I took pictures of both ends. Did someone before me break it?
 

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looks like it, if you split the 2 halves you might be able to get some vise grips on the fastener but don't crank on it too hard, you may have to heat it up and quench it with water to get it out. It takes a few rounds of heating and quenching sometimes.
 
 
 
 
If that’s okay I’m getting very close to just cut corners and put things back together already. I don’t like the idea of taking the saw completely apart if I need special tool for it. It’s hard for a reason, maybe it’s above my pay grade 😂
 

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pioneerguy600 said:
Many things have changed through the yeas and the venting systems are one I get asked often about, why does pressure build up in the tank of my saw. When those types come here to self research they generally take any advice they read and run with that so I generally correct any advice given that does not pertain to todays more modern saws, the kind most newbies would be using. The older two way venting systems worked just fine but you know who mandated that gasoline vapors had to be stopped from venting into the atmosphere so we got sealed off gassing vents to satisfy the big EPA The grub screws in a fuel line vents had their failings also but in general were easier to diagnose, simple to replace , I came across a new OEM one in my spares just today as I am working over a carb that has no low idle circuit. Got out the carb jet drills and popped out the Welsh plug. Found two orifices plugged and one restricted badly. The drills cleaned them up nicely, snapped in a new Welsh plug and flattened it in the drill press, tests fine now with the Mighty Vac, ran it on the saw and it has full adjust ability.
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I would guess the older vents would be less prone to winter fuel in the heat vapor locking, what say you?
 
you should download the service manual. You can split the cases without the tool, there are two pins. One is near the front and one in the crankcase circle area. There is also a bolt near each, On the front one I think the bolt hole normally is covered by the dawg. The bolt is at the bottom of a fairly deep hole, it may be covered by sawdust, oil or other junk. The pins can be tapped out but be sure to get all of the bolts. you can heat the case with a heat gun and use a soft face hammer instead of the tool. if you want to go down that road. Go to beg for manuals thread and post that you need a 044 service manual, someone will help you.
 
If you sprayed it all with brake cleaner I like to squirt a couple drops of 2-stroke oil on all the bearings and give them a couple rotations just to make sure everything is coated nicely. It prevents rust while the saw is apart and gives it some initial lubrication when starting the saw after rebuild
 

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