Stihl 044

[babaoriley]

you should download the service manual. You can split the cases without the tool, there are two pins. One is near the front and one in the crankcase circle area. There is also a bolt near each, On the front one I think the bolt hole normally is covered by the dawg. The bolt is at the bottom of a fairly deep hole, it may be covered by sawdust, oil or other junk. The pins can be tapped out but be sure to get all of the bolts. you can heat the case with a heat gun and use a soft face hammer instead of the tool. if you want to go down that road. Go to beg for manuals thread and post that you need a 044 service manual, someone will help you.

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you should download the service manual. You can split the cases without the tool, there are two pins. One is near the front and one in the crankcase circle area. There is also a bolt near each, On the front one I think the bolt hole normally is covered by the dawg. The bolt is at the bottom of a fairly deep hole, it may be covered by sawdust, oil or other junk. The pins can be tapped out but be sure to get all of the bolts. you can heat the case with a heat gun and use a soft face hammer instead of the tool. if you want to go down that road. Go to beg for manuals thread and post that you need a 044 service manual, someone will help you.

Thanks Dave, I’ll think about what to do next from here.

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

The vid is incorrect at 4:33 to 4:40, chainsaw vents do not vent both ways any more.

Thanks for pointing this out, pioneerguy600

 

[lone wolf]

I sprayed brake cleaner inside and then blew it a few times, should be enough right?

Yup.

 

[pioneerguy600]

I would guess the older vents would be less prone to winter fuel in the heat vapor locking, what say you?

The pressure caused would just leave the crankcase. we did not have problems with winter fuel in saws built before the closed vent system was invented. My older saws might boil the fuel but the pressure caused was not a problem in the two way vents.

 

[huskydave]

you can convert Huskys from closed vent to open vent by changing the fuel/oilcaps to caps for a trimmer that are vented, just need to turn down the od a bit with a grinder or a lathe. This works on 3 series saws. part # 503828005. Did this on saws with vent problems.

 

[babaoriley]

Yeah I watched some videos about the crankshaft seals and bearing, it’s not for me. They look fine as far as I’m concerned. gonna put the saw back together now.

 

[montana59]

Yeah I watched some videos about the crankshaft seals and bearing, it’s not for me. They look fine as far as I’m concerned. gonna put the saw back together now.

Make sure your seals are not hard or you’re wasting your time. Seals not hard to get out

 

[stihltech]

Am I the only one that sees the nice blue connecting rod?

 

[huskydave]

Am I the only one that sees the nice blue connecting rod?

no, I mentioned it lol.

 

[lone wolf]

Am I the only one that sees the nice blue connecting rod?

No, you are not. The question already came up. It was debated whether it was heat treatment or a bad bearing, and I think it was decided if it was tight and smooth it was OK! Hard to say from where I am sitting, typing this. Well worth double checking.

 

[babaoriley]

I think I need the cir clip tool from Stihl. I’ve seen ppl did it so easily with a little flat head, but not me. Will try again tomorrow, if it won’t work I’ll get the tool.

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

No, you are not. The question already came up. It was debated whether it was heat treatment or a bad bearing, and I think it was decided if it was tight and smooth it was OK! Hard to say from where I am sitting, typing this. Well worth double checking.

Yep. If I recall, one member suggested running a file across it. I concur to babaoriley. An almost free test. If the file digs in, no good. if it chatters along, It is good to go.

Last statement in post 46.

"A file test on that end of the rod will show if it is hard still or not. The file should skate off, if it digs in then the rod has been annealed"--- huskydave.

 

[lone wolf]

I think I need the cir clip tool from Stihl. I’ve seen ppl did it so easily with a little flat head, but not me. Will try again tomorrow, if it won’t work I’ll get the tool.

I use a pick.

 

[lone wolf]

I think I need the cir clip tool from Stihl. I’ve seen ppl did it so easily with a little flat head, but not me. Will try again tomorrow, if it won’t work I’ll get the tool.

Don't let it fly away.

 

[huskydave]

If the bearings are fairly smooth, I would run it like that after changing the seals, new base gasket inspect everything and replace if its questionable.

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

If the bearings are fairly smooth, I would run it like that after changing the seals, new base gasket inspect everything and replace if its questionable.

I might do likewise, BUT, like you said, Inspect everything up to and including the soap bubble test on the crank seals., etc.

 

[huskydave]

If you do the seals order a couple extra ones in case you mess one up installing them.

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

If you do the seals order a couple extra ones in case you mess one up installing them.

That is a whole OTHER learning curve moment, huh dave?

 

[huskydave]

That is a whole OTHER learning curve moment, huh dave?

you will be fine.

 

[babaoriley]

I think I messed up one of the crank seals. I pushed it too deep inside. Should I get a new seal and do it again?