Everything's cleaned up and ready for assembly except the muffler. Carb's clean and all. It'll certainly be much nicer to work on with all that grime gone!
Stihl 048 Rebuild
- Thread starter blsnelling
- Start date
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wigglesworth
Booned
That muffler is huge!!!
Sawdustmaker
Addicted to ArboristSite
Is that just after a trip through the dishwasher?
I actually cleaned it all by hand in my parts washer full of Mineral Spirits.
Sawdustmaker
Addicted to ArboristSite
ohh... i was hoping all my parts would look like that when they come out of the dishwasher...
parrisw
Tree Freak
Cool build Brad, looking forward to the progress.
They will, seriously! I just wouldn't stick a crankcase with bearings and crankshaft in it. It will rust!
BTW, the crank feels great on this saw. With the seals removed, I flooded it with mineral spirits from the parts cleaner and let it flow from the inside out through the bearings as I rotated the crank. It took a while to get it perfectly smooth since this saw has sat so long with the cylinder off. There's no way this could have been accomplished without removing the seals. There's no play and they're totally smooth now. So that's a good step forward. The piston and rings are back on the saw, but the cylinder is just sitting there to keep it covered. I'm still waiting on gaskets.
wigglesworth
Booned
Are you gonna paint the case? How does your paint hold up?
I currently do not have plans to paint this saw. The Stihl grey paint is anything but durable. It chips easily and paint disolves it. I don't care how many months you let it cure. If I were to paint this saw, I'd never want to run it. If I leave it like it is, I can run it at will and not worry about it. Mechanically it will be 100%, but it will not be pretty.
wigglesworth
Booned
I wonder if you can get it in non rattle can form and mix in some extra hardener? Or maybe poly the outside. I paint my bars and then put a coat of clear poly on it. It stays a long time, but you have to brush it on, so it is not perfectly smooth, but it is tough. Its made for industrial floors to cover paint. I dont remember the name though.
I experimented with clearcoating the Stihl grey. Both enamel and lacquer will blister it and ruin your work. Polyurethane was the only thing that didn't. I need to find a spray clear poly and try that. Your typical Minwax is yellowish. I wonder about the clear Varathan for floors?
Now you've got me thinking. The tank is in decent shape. I could paint the CC, recoil, and clutch cover and leave the tank original. That way I have the factory finish around the gasoline.
Now you've got me thinking. The tank is in decent shape. I could paint the CC, recoil, and clutch cover and leave the tank original. That way I have the factory finish around the gasoline.
wigglesworth
Booned
I will look monday at work and see what it is, but it does not yellow, clear and looks good. Sherwin Williams I think. You could probably thin it down and spray it. It is TOUGH stuff, I have a bar I have used for quite some time now and it still looks great.
wigglesworth
Booned
I just remembered its Armorseal made by Sherwin williams
fredmc
Addicted to ArboristSite
Hey Brad, you ever used baked on auto finish? Here at my work we have a paint shop-I could inquire about what the finishing guy Kevin would recommend? I think baked on enamel is gasoline resistant when cured.
I painted both my 07S and 08s with automotive acrylic enamel. It works GREAT. But it cost about $75-$100 to paint each saw. When you're spending that much on paint, you put a lot more work into the job as well. I don't want to go that far with this saw. Any saw that I do up like that will NEVER see wood again. That's just me. I am very interested in checking out this SW clear though. Did you spray it over the Stihl grey?
wigglesworth
Booned
No, it wasn't stihl grey It was TSC ford gray. I just brushed it on, it smooths itself out, but you can still see some very minor brush marks, but on a bar, I didn't care. Turns out the stuff is tough as a pine knot. It is really thick, so I don't know how it would spray but it is oil based so im sure you could thin it. I will definitely be putting it on any case I paint. Dries clear as a bell. At least on the grey it did.
The stuff I linked to is a water-base urethane enamel.
wigglesworth
Booned
Yes and no. I think the stuff we have is oil based, but I might be wrong.
fredmc
Addicted to ArboristSite
Actually that stuff looks like it would work well! I imagine baked on at 300 degrees that stuff would be tough. It can be thinned and sprayed also.
