Stihl 048 Rebuild

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I decided it would be easier to get my small sandblasting cabinet out than to try to sand this all down. I knew it would do a better job of roughing up the surface in all the little nooks and cranies too. The bar cover was all chipped up so I stripped it all the way down, exposing some corrosion. The tank didn't have a lot of wear, so I left most of the original finish on it.
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I used the primer from Ace that is intended for use with this paint. It took less than one can to do all the parts.
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I mixed the hardener at the strongest 1:8 ratio, or 1 pint/gallon. I mixed up 12 oz of paint, 1.5 oz of hardener, and 2-3 oz of paint thinner. The paint went on beautifully without a single run. Actually, the challenge was to get it to flow out. I was being conservative with the air pressure and flow though, 40 PSI and then regulated further on the gun. These pics are all of the first coat. The second coat went on nicely as well with no runs or sags that I saw.
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I'm sure hopeful for a nice durable finish. This is WAY cheaper than going with automotice paint. Instead of $75-$100 per saw, this may cost me about $12:) That's cheaper than Stihl paint, but is a little more work since I have to clean up the gun. That's no biggie though.
 
I mixed the hardener at the strongest 1:8 ratio, or 1 pint/gallon. I mixed up 12 oz of paint, 1.5 oz of hardener, and 2-3 oz of paint thinner. The paint went on beautifully without a single run. Actually, the challenge was to get it to flow out. I was being conservative with the air pressure and flow though, 40 PSI and then regulated further on the gun. These pics are all of the first coat. The second coat went on nicely as well with no runs or sags that I saw.
528604978_8qnXu-M.jpg


528605069_vTLxW-M.jpg


528605208_J9xCq-M.jpg


528605165_5xR69-M.jpg


528605248_xjrLt-M.jpg



I'm sure hopeful for a nice durable finish. This is WAY cheaper than going with automotice paint. Instead of $75-$100 per saw, this may cost me about $12:) That's cheaper than Stihl paint, but is a little more work since I have to clean up the gun. That's no biggie though.


Nice work, looks good. What was the exact name of that paint??
 
ha ha ha. I don't know??? Does it need clear?

I say no. This isn't a museum quality rebuild. It's just a repainted saw.

Now how about putting this paint in the oven. I always do the Stihl paint. I set the over to its lowest temp at 175F and leave it in there a couple hours. How long should I way before doing so? Should it be dry to touch, or does it not matter? I found it odd that the instructions on the hardener/catalyst said the the drying times would be longer:confused:
 
I say no. This isn't a museum quality rebuild. It's just a repainted saw.

Now how about putting this paint in the oven. I always do the Stihl paint. I set the over to its lowest temp at 175F and leave it in there a couple hours. How long should I way before doing so? Should it be dry to touch, or does it not matter? I found it odd that the instructions on the hardener/catalyst said the the drying times would be longer:confused:

Are you supposed to bake it? If it doesn't say it on the instructions, I wouldn't do it... Thats how I got in trouble with that muffler of yours.:cry:

If this turns out to be really durable... I think a lot of folks will be going to Ace Hardware for saw paint. :cheers:
 
Using hardener/catalyst

I hope you guys are using a respirator when using paints with hardener/catalyst in them. That stuff is really tough on a guys lungs.

Looking good!

Dan
 
I like the way the paint looks, I want to paint some older magnesium I have. Can they mix any color at ace?
I talked to our paint guy here and he told me the same thing you already know-implement paint. He said if the parts are small enough you can dip and drip before you heat cure.
 
The paint is completely tack free this morning, and already quite hard. I tried to print it with my thumb and it did not. That's pretty fast drying for enamel. It's hanging from the cabinets in the kitchen since I figure the humidity is lower inside. With any luck I'll have some seals and gaskets this afternoon. I'll be working on a towel over the bench with this one:)

Here are the paint products I used. I bought them at Mastersons in Findlay, OH. They are a large old fashioned hardware store. I would think you should be able to by this at many Ace Hardware stores.
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Notice the prices. I threw away about 8-10 oz of the 16 I mixed up too. There's enough here to do several more saws.
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I'm officially hunting for this other style filter cover with the twist lock. Not only does it not screw onto my tank, it also doesn't even fit it properly. I'm sure it could be made to work, but I want the right one. Please let me know if you can help me out on this part.
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BTW, be careful not to bump the copper outlet pipe of your air compressor after sandblasting for a while! Believe it or not, it doesn't hurt.
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I use the valspar tractor enamel from tractor supply. It is basically the same thing (just the tractor supply brand). It is pretty much gas proof after it fully cures.
 
Can they custom color match it? I'll post up the recipe they came up with for me a little later.

I don't know about that, probably not, but not sure. Between all of the name-branded tractor colors and the other standard colors, there is a lot to choose from. I am thinking about using the ford tan color for my old stihl 08s and then finding a really close match for the orange. You can also get this paint in spay cans. The only difference is the spray can paint takes quite a bit longer to cure, but is just as durable and gas resistant.
 

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