It's not a CDIC but a Iida ignition. So unlimited version.
Gave it a little photoshoot while I was at it, will put them up later.
Stihl 064 from '98
- Thread starter Typhke
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It's not a CDIC but a Iida ignition. So unlimited version.
Gave it a little photoshoot while I was at it, will put them up later.
Got the new clutch springs on it, set carb right. Too bad I don't have big enough wood to test the saw.
Maybe someone can help me with this: when I put the saw down on the lawn, it dies. It's like 2-3 inch big grass, little wet though. Are my carb settings off (I don't have a tacho but barely did adjustments)? Maybe my LA is too low? Have it pretty low to prevent chain from running (possible that the needle cage needs to be replaced also but gave it a clean with brake cleaner and greased it again). It doesn't die when I put it on the driveway.
Or is this normal? Because I can place my MS 362 there and it won't quit running that easy...
Possible issues:
Haven't replaced the fuel pick-up body
Haven't opened the carb
Haven't replaced any fuel lines
=> wanted to wait till the summer, after running it some time to judge if other things needed to be replaced too.
Maybe someone can help me with this: when I put the saw down on the lawn, it dies. It's like 2-3 inch big grass, little wet though. Are my carb settings off (I don't have a tacho but barely did adjustments)? Maybe my LA is too low? Have it pretty low to prevent chain from running (possible that the needle cage needs to be replaced also but gave it a clean with brake cleaner and greased it again). It doesn't die when I put it on the driveway.
Or is this normal? Because I can place my MS 362 there and it won't quit running that easy...
Possible issues:
Haven't replaced the fuel pick-up body
Haven't opened the carb
Haven't replaced any fuel lines
=> wanted to wait till the summer, after running it some time to judge if other things needed to be replaced too.
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watsonr
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Low carb settings not right yet, give a 1/8 turn CW/CCW and re-adjust LA... probably dieing because its to rich/lean. Lean would be.. it speeds up then dies, rich would be it just dies.
To rich, thought so. Can't get enough air when laying in the grass I guess. But the low screw is 1 turn out, basic setting for this carb. Can I turn it 1/8 CW without getting damage in the long run?
Basic settings for the carb are:
L 1 full turn out
H 3/4 turn out (1 full turn to seat the rings, then adjust max 1/4 CW)
Quite anxious to play with the carb settings, tuned a few saws but usually had it checked at my dealer with a tacho just to be sure. (Most of the time the tuning was good, just needed some slight adjustments CW)
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'Basic' settings are only a starting point to get the saw running. Then you need to 'micro' tune it properly. Check out Madsen's procedure. Saw Carb Tuning
A tach is a nice thing to have, but for the first decade I ran saws, I never even used one. I finally bought one when I found this site and fell into the black hole of CAD.
Got it 1/4 back, the L screw is 3/4 turned out in total now. Lowered the LA also a little bit.
Got the info from Madsen's procedure and the sound samples also. Just TOO anxious to set it too lean :msp_thumbdn:. Tach is too expensive for the use I have for it and with the older saws, my dealer doesn't even use a tach to set them. So should get it right with some practise'Basic' settings are only a starting point to get the saw running. Then you need to 'micro' tune it properly. Check out Madsen's procedure. Saw Carb Tuning
A tach is a nice thing to have, but for the first decade I ran saws, I never even used one. I finally bought one when I found this site and fell into the black hole of CAD.
. Didn't have a lot of time today either so will probably get it fixed next time.Got back at it, it's between 9-10 pm so couldn't stay at it for long, too many neighbours here. Made a little recording, trying to upload it now. The rev sounds like crap, mic can't record it but hope the idle is clear enough.
4shared folder - Stihl 064
Geluidsclip 02.mp4 is the idle sound. Also uploaded the pictures I promised. Don't know if this sort of link is allowed? If not, I'll delete it, just let me know. (Wasn't another way to upload the sound without having to convert it etc).
I would like to get a training about this but my dealer is far too busy. Recently learned that one of my future father in law his friends are into chainsaws. Will try to set something up with them. Want to get it right on my own. Appreciate all the help I'm getting here!! And everybody who thinks, omg, again setting a carb, sorry but ignore me?
I'm just 21 and still learning!
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If you're afraid it's too lean, just give it another hair to the rich side. Nothing wrong with running a tiny bit rich.
Yea, will do. It's sort of in the middle between shutting down because of too lean (screw 1/4 out) and running too rich (little over 1 screw out), but a bit more to the rich side already. Probably 1/3 from the too rich and 2/3 from too lean. I had to stop because of the late time, but the saw already ran better! I made pictures of the way the carb screws were set when I got the saw. There was barely a difference with the basic setting but the LA was screwed in more than necessary. Think the seller never adjusted the L or H. The changes I've done now, do really make it run more smoothly already. And it didn't die anymore between the grass.
If I get to the dealer, I'll probably can't resist and take the saw with me to check the rpm's. But I don't come there very often unless I've got someone else his saw here for repairs and I need parts.
Thanks for your help!
Finally had the chance and the wood (European oak) to run the 064 last week. Also ordered a tacho a while back because I've got 3 saws now and got some saws visiting with problems so just to be safe. I received it on the end of the day and checked the rpm's on the 064. It ran at 12300 rpm and idle at 2700 but the saw wasn't really warm anymore. Temperatures were around 20°F and I was running out of gas so hadn't had a chance to tune the saw.
Still in my exams (had a nice break running some chainsaws
) so will have to wait till February. Idle around 2700 is ok I think (will go down a bit when hot?) and top rpm should be 13000, based on the manual I have. Saw that some 064s should be tuned to 12000 so think that there are some differences based on which style of 064 you've got?
I didn't put much attention on the chains I got with the saw when I bought it, my bad. But the price was good even without chains imo. I had 4 (3x RS 1x RM) chains come with it.
1 wasn't filed correctly, the top angle was off.
1 lost some cutters but may be able to convert it to a 16" chain for my FIL. Had that hanging on the wall for quiet some time already.
1 had the rakers too low, probably what caused the cutters to break on the other chain.
1 was used 1 time and never sharpened.
So had some work changing chains early in the morning. Stupid mistake of me that I didn't checked them closer. I did check if I needed to sharpen them but obviously not watched them close enough! The bar is the original 20", the saw ran the original 8-tooth sprocket rim, and the seller only cut softwood so I think the saw wasn't stressed too hard (at least the chains were sharpened). But won't forget too check the chains next time!
I'll fix the top angle and file the one with low rakers back till it isn't that grabby anymore. Ran the whole day with the 'new' RM chain with a new 7-tooth sprocket rim. The saw ran really good, really strong in the oak. I still have the 20" bar on it so it slides through the logs (max diameter was around 20" and used a sawhorse with 18" wideness). Also did some noodling and it was a piece of cake! Saw seems really solid and ran great! Really happy with it! Finally getting into woodcutting again in February!!
Here is a picture of some wood I've been working on:
View attachment 274334
Still in my exams (had a nice break running some chainsaws
) so will have to wait till February. Idle around 2700 is ok I think (will go down a bit when hot?) and top rpm should be 13000, based on the manual I have. Saw that some 064s should be tuned to 12000 so think that there are some differences based on which style of 064 you've got?I didn't put much attention on the chains I got with the saw when I bought it, my bad. But the price was good even without chains imo. I had 4 (3x RS 1x RM) chains come with it.
1 wasn't filed correctly, the top angle was off.
1 lost some cutters but may be able to convert it to a 16" chain for my FIL. Had that hanging on the wall for quiet some time already.
1 had the rakers too low, probably what caused the cutters to break on the other chain.
1 was used 1 time and never sharpened.
So had some work changing chains early in the morning. Stupid mistake of me that I didn't checked them closer. I did check if I needed to sharpen them but obviously not watched them close enough! The bar is the original 20", the saw ran the original 8-tooth sprocket rim, and the seller only cut softwood so I think the saw wasn't stressed too hard (at least the chains were sharpened). But won't forget too check the chains next time!
I'll fix the top angle and file the one with low rakers back till it isn't that grabby anymore. Ran the whole day with the 'new' RM chain with a new 7-tooth sprocket rim. The saw ran really good, really strong in the oak. I still have the 20" bar on it so it slides through the logs (max diameter was around 20" and used a sawhorse with 18" wideness). Also did some noodling and it was a piece of cake! Saw seems really solid and ran great! Really happy with it! Finally getting into woodcutting again in February!!
Here is a picture of some wood I've been working on:
View attachment 274334
