Could you help me identify this saw please?
What do you think is it a Stihl 064 or 066?
Thank you.
What do you think is it a Stihl 064 or 066?
Thank you.
Stihl 064 or 066?
- Thread starter David Major
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Could be made up out of the spare parts box.
Looks to be an early 066 red light (064 never had the red light)- but with some later parts added.
Has the wide alloy flywheel- wider recoil starter cover and elastostart rope/handle from much later saws and decomp engine cover from same.
Alloy air box and flat filter of the 064/early 066 type, master control switch being metal shaft with red cast over plastic is period correct- but I am not sure the semi transparent fuel tank is correct for era.
So, depending on how much is true to original and how much has been parts swapped- could be pretty much a mash together of any of the 1122 model saws and parts thereof. Or, it could still be an original 066 red light with a few newer genuine parts to keep it running.
Looks to be an early 066 red light (064 never had the red light)- but with some later parts added.
Has the wide alloy flywheel- wider recoil starter cover and elastostart rope/handle from much later saws and decomp engine cover from same.
Alloy air box and flat filter of the 064/early 066 type, master control switch being metal shaft with red cast over plastic is period correct- but I am not sure the semi transparent fuel tank is correct for era.
So, depending on how much is true to original and how much has been parts swapped- could be pretty much a mash together of any of the 1122 model saws and parts thereof. Or, it could still be an original 066 red light with a few newer genuine parts to keep it running.
Screw size on cylinder base could tell you 64 66 are different
And spacing i think if a bit different,,
And spacing i think if a bit different,,
Look at the oil pump.
064 has hose,066 has internal passage.
064 has hose,066 has internal passage.
See if the red light is actually wired.
Yes, working red light.
The oil pump tells the difference every time. I cannot fathom how after all the dozens of threads on this site where it has been stated over and over to look at the oil pump to differentiate between the two.
Bob, all those exterior body parts are never dependable way to differentiate between the 064 and 066, body parts can be swapped and serial numbers mean squat to anyone not connected to Stihl corporate, waiting to hear back from them is a big waste of time so the simple look at the oil pump is all I have ever needed. If one cannot remove a clutch drum to take a peek, they should not be working on saws.
I love it. Some psychopath goes around the world to make an 064 look like an 066 so weirdos on a forum can have a buyer dismantle it.
Or, it is just an 066.
Or, it is just an 066.
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Totally agree- thats why I suggested it could be a mash up from the parts box- all that serial number tells me is it was made in Germany- which stands to reason as the OP is in Europe.
Be interesting to know if it runs well and makes good power. If the red light still works and the flywheel is not original have to wonder what the timing is.
He said red light working in thread. Just a couple post ago. = Yes, working red light.
It really is quite simple task to just remove the E clip from the crank end, the cup washer then the clutch drum, no need to remove the clutch its self as there is enough of a window between the clutch carrier/spider arms to get a good look at the oil pump beneath it. If the oil pump has a black oil line feeding the bar pad it is an 064. If the oil pump is a solid metal/integral
feed with no rubber hose it is an 066. Couple pics borrowed off the net.
feed with no rubber hose it is an 066. Couple pics borrowed off the net.
Yes the first digit identifies where it was made but the rest of the serial number does little to identify the model, I have been told that if the serial number has less than 9 digits it cannot be decoded any longer by Stihl themselves, anyone else hear this?
Go back a couple of more posts and it is not a red light flywheel. In case you ever had to replace a bad red light ignition coil the flywheel has to be changed. So, if you change the flywheel and keep the red light coil what do you get ?
I was the one that asked him the question about the red light.
Just know he said working red light. If hooked up that means limited to me if somehow using the right coil I guess.
I know what I ended up with using a poly flywheel etc etc etc on my red light.
No decomp flat top.
Just know he said working red light. If hooked up that means limited to me if somehow using the right coil I guess.
I know what I ended up with using a poly flywheel etc etc etc on my red light.
View attachment 1220413
View attachment 1220414
Don't think the red light was limiting, just a method to indicate a certain RPM which reportedly decreases over time to the point you no longer use it.
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Yes they were- rev limited to 12.5K when the red light came on.
When they get old and start failing sometimes they are lucky to build 10K before reaching a new limit.
Original red light CDIC coil was similar to the 064 1303 unit but had the extra lead for the light and was a Prufrex 1122 400 1307.
I bought one that was for all purposes new other than the ignition. Either X or Y with the right flywheel and you can put a dumb coil on it. I forget which is which.
I have read arguments on here as to whether they were rev limiting or just an indicator. If you say it was a limiter I believe you.
