Stihl 07 (1961-1965) Rebuild Process.

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Hi Tom
I just got #3 07 in and i noticed this one is a little different
Do you know what the hole is for on the recoil with the plastic plug?I also noticed that there is a piece of rubber between the front wrap and recoil.This is the only one with the hole,the other two have a different recoil with the vintage Stihl logne of the other two has a full wrap.
Was going to get rid of a duplicate,but technically they are all different so i may have to keep them all
Thanks Thomas

Hi Thomas, that plug, once removed exposes the air vane governor allowing you to quickly adjust it without needing to remove the whole recoil. You can use a pair of forceps to adjust the spring tension.

Hope this helps!

Warm regards, Tom

 

[Yukon Stihl]

Thanks the other two I have don’t have it

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Thanks the other two I have don’t have it

Yes I have noticed it before

 

[ham]

Thanks for taking the time to post the details of this restoration. It is a very enjoyable read.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Thanks for taking the time to post the details of this restoration. It is a very enjoyable read.

Thanks Ham, much appreciated!

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Indeed. Exceptionally well done in all aspects (though the vids would not work for me). A thoroughly enjoyable journey.

Thank you.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Indeed. Exceptionally well done in all aspects (though the vids would not work for me). A thoroughly enjoyable journey.

Thank you.

Thank you for taking the time to read it Pogo!
The adventures didn’t actually stop here, though I stopped posting for some reason unbeknown to me now. The electronic ignition module fitted in the 80’s to do away with the points didn’t work and it would miss fire at WOT so I ordered a set of 08 points to test proof of concept and it worked beautifully. Therefore I went and ordered NOS 07 points from the states. Now I just have to go out and test it a final time. However I have re-built a bunch of saws in this time so I never got around to taking it out! I will do one day

The above is worded in such a way that it seems it was a simple diagnosis and fix, in reality it took weeks.

Videos won’t work as I deleted them all from my channel.

Warmest regards and thanks again.

 

[Rafal]

Like my other 4 saws I have rebuilt in my short time here, I want to share the ups and downs on the Stihl 07.

I know that it needs new seals and gaskits at the very least.

I had already done a superficial clean to get access to the intake and exhaust to do a pressure and vacuum
but anyway, here it was before I started with .404 chain on a hard nose bar.

View attachment 826641


I removed a bunch of parts and proceeded to soak them on evaporust to clean them up.

View attachment 826642

this is half way through cleaning...


View attachment 826643

The magnets that are actually separate to the flywheel connect directly on to the crank, it was impossible to remove with hitting the crank, so I rigged up a bearing puller, worked beautifully...

View attachment 826644

View attachment 826645

the previous owner swapped the points and condenser with electronic ignition but his wiring was dodgy and poorly connected, so I rewired the whole thing starting at where the points and condenser was and working my way through the rest of the circuit.


View attachment 826646

I then tested all connections to check for any breaks / resistance and it was good.View attachment 826647

I reconnected all the wiring and got it back onto the saw
View attachment 826654

and cleaned the spark plug spring of the rust present that may affect connection.

View attachment 826649

then reconnected it to the boot.

View attachment 826655
I accidentally disassembled the Oiler, which I would have done anyway, but not so soon. It will be tricky to replace but fingers crossed it will go smoothly.

This sets the baseline / starting point. The saw is clean, free of all oil and fuel and is ready for a full strip and rebuild.

I’m trying to get the clutch off, but I can’t even get the spacer off, it must be rusted on really well, trying some evaporust rigged up to the crank shaft and spacer via a plastic bag hoping it will help, other than this I’m out of ideas!

Hi anyone got wiring diagram for stihl 07s 1965,how on/off switch should be connected, I got electric impuls from spark plug boot but no spark tried few different spark plugs and no spark

 

[cbfarmall]

There's really no diagram necessary. That is simply a grounding switch. If the wire is disconnected from the switch and you still have no spark, you've ruled out a faulty switch. Dirty points is the number one reason for no spark. Faulty condenser is #2, bad coil will be a distant 3rd. If you happen to have some sort of old electronic ignition, all bets are off and it has probably failed.

 

[Rafal]

There's really no diagram necessary. That is simply a grounding switch. If the wire is disconnected from the switch and you still have no spark, you've ruled out a faulty switch. Dirty points is the number one reason for no spark. Faulty condenser is #2, bad coil will be a distant 3rd. If you happen to have some sort of old electronic ignition, all bets are off and it has probably failed.

Thanks for that ,thought it's weird I'm getting electric impuls when touch spark boot and pull cord but no spark, how many wires should be connected to on off switch as just got one

 

[cbfarmall]

Only one wire. The switch makes it continuous to ground. What do you mean electrical impulse but no spark? Is that another way of saying weak spark? Could be condenser.

 

[Rafal]

Only one wire. The switch makes it continuous to ground. What do you mean electrical impulse but no spark? Is that another way of saying weak spark? Could be condenser.

When put finger inside spark plug boot instead of spark plug and pull getting electric shock, harder I pull stronger I can feel it ,but maybe it's to weak to create spark, can I get parts for it,I found ignition coil but it's electronic without ignition braker so not sure how to fit it

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

If you haven't already, remove the fanwheel and flywheel and inspect everything unerneath. The points are likely dirty or burnt and the wiring insulation chafed or gone..., possibly shorting to the case. Remove the kill wire entirely as a test.

Grabbing the plug lead with your bare hand and pulling the saw over should knock you on your ass.

 

[Rafal]

If you haven't already, remove the fanwheel and flywheel and inspect everything unerneath. The points are likely dirty or burnt and the wiring insulation chafed or gone..., possibly shorting to the case. Remove the kill wire entirely as a test.

Grabbing the plug lead with your bare hand and pulling the saw over should knock you on your ass.

I did check and cleaned everything there ,will check again and see

 

[cbfarmall]

If you haven't already, remove the fanwheel and flywheel and inspect everything unerneath. The points are likely dirty or burnt and the wiring insulation chafed or gone..., possibly shorting to the case. Remove the kill wire entirely as a test.

Grabbing the plug lead with your bare hand and pulling the saw over should knock you on your ass.

That new coil looks like a points coil with a Nova chip installed and covered up. Can't comment on the quality but you would use that in place of your points ignition, same flywheel.

That said, I'm not a fan of the Nova ignition and they are even less reliable underneath the flywheel trapped with all the engine heat. Best to have it away from all that.

 

[buzz sawyer]

Have you filed the points to clean metal? As already said, that cures most " no spark" issues on older saws I've worked on. Do the magnets in the flywheel have a strong pull to them? Weak magnets can cause low/no spark. Is the cam that opens the points located on the flywheel - like the 08s?

 

[Rafal]

Have you filed the points to clean metal? As already said, that cures most " no spark" issues on older saws I've worked on. Do the magnets in the flywheel have a strong pull to them? Weak magnets can cause low/no spark. Is the cam that opens the points located on the flywheel - like the 08s?

Yes I'm going to clean again maybe sand it down aswell, cam located on flywheel, magnets seem strong, would like to keep everything original but no many spare parts available for them

 

[buzz sawyer]

Yes I'm going to clean again maybe sand it down aswell, cam located on flywheel, magnets seem strong, would like to keep everything original but no many spare parts available for them

Avoid sanding if possible, it can leave a residue. Clean with contact solvent afterwards. I file mine with a raker file. You want very smooth surfaces. Any peaks will quickly burn down and reduce conductivity.

 

[Bigjimmythunder]

Amazing read and outstanding effort to bring back an old gem of a saw

I have gone through similar to bring back my 07 although thankfully I didnt have to pull the crank or cylinder. Replaced all fuel lines fixed the wiring and new carb kit.
Why did they make the nuts so hard to get to?

Can confirm that cleaning the points brought back the spark for me, I used steel wool to clean it up and she fired right back up

I had issues with the aftermarket exhaust though, something was rattling around inside it and I didn't want to cut it open but managed to get a good used original one from Canada so now it looks legit again

She is more of a shelf queen but I have actually cut aome wood with it. While it works I have nothing but respect for the guys who used them back in the day. The vibrations are insane after a while and your hands don't stop tingling for a long time


Even though my 076 is heavier I much prefer using that instead, well the 056 magnum is my favourite, dual exhaust puts a smile on my face everytime I fire it up

 

[Rafal]

Thanks for that ,thought it's weird I'm getting electric impuls when touch spark boot and pull cord but no spark, how many wires should be connected to on off switch as just got one

Anyone splited crankshaft in stihl 07s chainsaw before, need to change bearing at bottom of conrod but not sure how to split crankshaft safe