Stihl 361 + Laser Bar / Oiler

[KLBCCTALLY1]

I bought a new 361 and have had problems with this bar or the oiler. The bar and clutch get way too hot and I've read here that later model Stihl saws have lower oil output. My saw uses like hardly no oil and I've adjusted the output to high. I've got a 024 I've had for years and I like the great oil output on the older saws. I tried cleaning the resevoir thinking that was it but it didn't affect it. Also, I've read Andy's oiler upgrade posts and wonder if I can do this with the 361? As for the duromatic bar my friend said I "had" to get the hardtip cause it was the "best." I've always ran the sprocket or roller tips (still not sure the differences ) and never had problems. What opinions do you guys have on these bars. Thanks for all of your help. Great site and good people.

 

[belgian]

I bought a new 361 and have had problems with this bar or the oiler. The bar and clutch get way too hot and I've read here that later model Stihl saws have lower oil output. My saw uses like hardly no oil and I've adjusted the output to high. I've got a 024 I've had for years and I like the great oil output on the older saws. I tried cleaning the resevoir thinking that was it but it didn't affect it. Also, I've read Andy's oiler upgrade posts and wonder if I can do this with the 361? As for the duromatic bar my friend said I "had" to get the hardtip cause it was the "best." I've always ran the sprocket or roller tips (still not sure the differences ) and never had problems. What opinions do you guys have on these bars. Thanks for all of your help. Great site and good people.

Hello, welcome to the site.
My 361 has an 18" Rollomatic bar on it and consumes half an oil tank on each fuel fill-up (at close to max setting). It is known that this saw uses less oil than previous models, but so far, I've not had any problem on overheating.
What is your bar length ? What type of wood do you cut ?
regards
roland

 

[SawTroll]

I have not had any oiling issues with my 18" Rollomatic E and 36RSC chain either.
It is not drooling with oil, but it doesn't heat up excessively either.

The E-matic system (of the Stihl bar & chain) is designed to put the oil were it counts, but it is mostly a function of the chain, not the bar.
If you are using other than Stihl chain, I suggest that you try Stihl to see if it makes a difference.

Like Roland, I have turned the oiler to near max output, but not quite.

 

[Greybeard]

I'm running 20 inch bar and RSC chain on my EHP 361. Oiler adjustment is set on max and I've had no overheating or excess wear problems.

Perhaps you have a warranty issue?

 

[SawTroll]

Hardnose bar ??

.. As for the duromatic bar my friend said I "had" to get the hardtip cause it was the "best." I've always ran the sprocket or roller tips (still not sure the differences )

I am not sure what sort of bar you are running. If it is a hardnose one, and you are tightening it like you have done on sprocket nose ones, you are probably running an overtightened chain...... :help:

As for sprocket tip vs roller top; The sprocket has teeth that fit into recesses in the chain - the roller has a channel that the chain runs in all the way around.

 

[Dadatwins]

It sounds like the oiler holes on the bar are not lining up. Try running the saw without the bar & chain, put the side cover on. Run it just above idle with the brake off and see if the oiler is working, it will drip out with the sprocket turning. Are you running stihl brand bar? Some aftermarkets oiler holes might not line up. Good luck.

 

[Reddog]

duromatic bar is the hard nosed bar. As others have touched on you are most likly running the chain to tight.

 

[Lakeside53]

Even "looser" the Duromatic runs hotter... Unless you are boring or in really dirty/abrasive conditions, you should use the roller tip bars. The stihl chain has a groove in it to force the oil into the link and carry it around the bar. Some versions also have a hole in the tang to trap oil.

Sorry, there is no replacement piston for the 361. I'm looking at the piston it to see if it can be modified, but it will be a while.

My bar gets pretty warm when working hard in big wood, but there is no burning or excessive wear so it's o.k.

 

[coveredinsap]

To answer your question, the hardnose bars are for dirty jobs, such as stump cutting or cutting wood with dirt on it, or in conditions where the bar may come in contact with the ground.

And as another poster said....it sounds like the chain is too tight for one. Grab a link and pull up...on a cold chain you should be able to pull three drive links completely clear of the top middle of the bar, although just barely.

You may want to switch to a thinner bar oil, such as vegetable oil. It's as good a reason as any to switch

 

[Lakeside53]

You may want to switch to a thinner bar oil, such as vegetable oil. It's as good a reason as any to switch

More worthless advise from guy that has never used a hard tip bar.

If you are having bar heat problems, just use a quality brand REAL bar oil with sticking agents and controlled lubrication properties. Thinner oil at higher temperatures will not help the problem, just fly off the tip, and not get back to the bottom of the bar or the sproket.

If you want to use a bio oil with a duro bar, use the Husky or Stihl versions that are designed to stick to the chain and not fly off the tip. Other properties include not turning to resin in hot dry conditions. Lot's of threads to search on bio / vege oil use.

 

[Lakeside53]

. Grab a link and pull up...on a cold chain you should be able to pull three drive links completely clear of the top middle of the bar, although just barely.

huh? Where did you read that? You can't say this without knowing the bar length or chain type. This might be someone's "rule-of'thumb" for long bars, but just try it on a shorter bar...

 

[ShoerFast]

To answer your question, the hardnose bars are for dirty jobs, such as stump cutting or cutting wood with dirt on it, or in conditions where the bar may come in contact with the ground.

And as another poster said....it sounds like the chain is too tight for one. Grab a link and pull up...on a cold chain you should be able to pull three drive links completely clear of the top middle of the bar, although just barely.

You may want to switch to a thinner bar oil, such as vegetable oil. It's as good a reason as any to switch

How much more of a point do you need?


You may want a looser tension for a hard nose bar, just that rollers can take a lot more tension,,,,,,,,,,, but saps-settings will not take into account how much bar your running, cross-cutting or ripping, tempature of the bar - chain, only experience will give your the right "feel" for your style or cutting,,,,,,, but the Squrial had a saying,,,

"No Sag, No Drag"

But were would you ever think thinner oil would be a better choice in a hot bar condition?

Ask anyone that dose a lot of slasher or harvester work how long they would run veggi oil?

 

[coveredinsap]

huh? Where did you read that? You can't say this without knowing the bar length or chain type. This might be someone's "rule-of'thumb" for long bars, but just try it on a shorter bar...

Funny that you ask. That's the one thing my Stihl dealer showed me that was worth a fark. Works for all different size bars/chain types as a "rule of thumb" starting place for chain adjustment. You can easily dial the chain adjustment in from there as necessary.

As I said, the irony of your comment is priceless.

 

[04ultra]

All right guy's .....He get's used fryer oil from his job at Mcdonald's..Dont you remember he's on a tight budget.... The Mcdonald's over by the Napa store on Jefferson...

 

[ShoerFast]

Funny that you ask. That's the one thing my Stihl dealer showed me that was worth a fark. Works for all different size bars/chain types as a "rule of thumb" starting place for chain adjustment. You can easily dial the chain adjustment in from there as necessary.

As I said, the irony of your comment is priceless.

He did have to start you somewere now dident he? ,,,,,,,What Stihl dealer was that BTW?

If you would **** and listen, not look at this site down your nose, you would find that most here have things to offer that is not FNG "rule of thumb"

 

[coveredinsap]

He did have to start you somewere now dident he? ,,,,,,,What Stihl dealer was that BTW?

If you would **** and listen, not look at this site down your nose, you would find that most here have things to offer that is not FNG "rule of thumb"

Yeah, every once in a while a few of you come up with something good, (particularly as it pertains to repairs) but not real often. Most is just opinion. Sorry.

 

[rbtree]

Funny that you ask. That's the one thing my Stihl dealer showed me that was worth a fark. Works for all different size bars/chain types as a "rule of thumb" starting place for chain adjustment. You can easily dial the chain adjustment in from there as necessary.

As I said, the irony of your comment is priceless.

" Priceless" (Well, not really, more like par for the course) is you sticking your nose when where you don't belong. Have you ever run a hard nosed bar? That rule of themb you were shown is relevant for roller/sprocket noses, not hard. Those need to be left much looser, so that there is a fair bit of sag.

Dadatwins, so far here, has offered the best advice to the original poster....

 

[ShoerFast]

Yeah, every once in a while a few of you come up with something good, (particularly as it pertains to repairs) but not real often. Most is just opinion. Sorry.

I know,,,,,most of us are not fit to tension your chains,,,,,,,, but a quick poll of experiences, I for one had been running saws, starting with the stinger end of an old Mac 2 cylinder back in 1965

How many years do others here have?

Sorry, an 8 year old green plastic thing that you can still read the bar lettering dose not count,,,,,, my advice to you ,,,,wear a few bars out, the old-honest way, make a few blades out of the old bars and try to listen a little more then talk for a time!

 

[Dadatwins]

Thanks RB, nice to see you and a few others actually reading the posts here and recognized someone asked a question. :deadhorse: Wonder if the original poster will even bother to come back and try to fix the problem with HIS saw or get bored with all the mudslinging that happens here.

 

[rbtree]

Yeah, every once in a while a few of you come up with something good, (particularly as it pertains to repairs) but not real often. Most is just opinion. Sorry.

I tell you something, sappo. Before I started visiting web forums related to arboriculture and chainsaws, I had 25 years in the industry, so had scads of knowledge and experience. Now, 8 years later, I have learned a hell of lot about both fields, and become a better arborist, And, many have benefited and learned from me relating my experiences both with words and photography.
And, I'm still learning..

Moral of the story, when you are a relative neophyte, and with little real experience, you will learn more if you shut your mouth and read...and read ...and read.

Reminds me of a young fella who I've trained, and now owns his own company. He has an ego problem, and perhaps even a chip on his shoulder, and I've heard that he has proclaimed to others that he is the best climber in Seattle......which is preposterous. (The reigning ISA World Champion resides here.) And the 2004 Women's champ lives here as well. Both have come by my jobsite on a few occasions to watch, perhaps take video, and, in one case to see how crane work is done, as she has yet to do it.