Stihl Air Filters - Cleaning & Leaking

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SteveSr

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Now that the subject line has you thoroughly confused I had better clairify that I am refering to the type of screw-on filters as found on saws like the 026.

Every time I clean my filter I notice that there is a fair amount of "crud" inside the filter. The only place that I can see an air leak hole is around the choke lever. Has anyone come up with a creative way to plug this leak without affecting choke operation? I can't believe that this dirty air is doing the saw any good.

I don't want to spark a Stihl / Husky debate but in this area the Husky is vastly superior. I borrowed a friend's Husky 51 and couldn't believe how clean the air filter was especially after knowing the filter had probably never been cleaned.

This brings up my last question. What is the best way to clean the Stihl filters? I Have been using an old paint brush and dish detergent. do any of you have any Better suggestions?

Thanks,

Steve

P.S. I'm still trying to figure out this signature thing! I am used to text only Usenet.
 
Compressed air- from the inside out. Sometimes I clean a filter with gas before blowing it out and have never cleaned a filter with soapy water.
 
When you say crud is it actually saw dust or just spitback from the carb building up?...........Wade
 
What is the filter made from? Stihl has both flocked or felt types and a screen type. The screen type should only be used in freezing wet conditions but often are found in normal situations and they will pass dirt. If your filter is the screen type, switch to the correct type.
 
air filter

DO NOT brush on a flocked filter, it will only wear the fuzz off in time.
I have seen what you are talking about. Do you see any sawdust in the throat of the carb? The spitback does seem to collect a bit in the filter, but I have seen no sawdust in further.
The best stuff I have seen so far to clean flocked or felt type filters is Dawn dish detergent. Takes the oil right out. Just rinse it out good and let it dry. If just sawdust on it, blow it from the inside out with a low pressure, not 120 PSI 1 inch from the filter.
 
I hate to hear about all these problems with Stihls, such a good old experienced company.

Gosh, I would have thought their engineers would have had all these basic things thought out by now.

It wouldn't be just another company taken over by price point accountants and marketeers, would it?

It is the same as witha lot of older good companies the founders and good engineers have gone fishing.
 
Tony, I think it is elux that has the problem with leaky filters. My 372 always had some specs on the inside of the filter. BTW My 026's filters doesnt leak at all. Of course I dont overtighten the mounting bolts,which tends to warp the filter causeing the leaks.
 
Use a penny, which fits the screw perfectly (US penny, anyway), and snug 'em down good with just your fingers.

If you start to bend the penny (possible with those made after '80, which aren't a copper alloy but rather junk metal with a copper wash), then stop, they're tight enough.  They're actually tight enough before then, but you'll still be alright.  It's a lot less than a typical person can/will put on them with a screwdriver.

Glen
 
Originally posted by crowe
When you say crud is it actually saw dust or just spitback from the carb building up?...........Wade

Wade,

What I am seeing is the normal spit back from the carburetor which leaves a little bit of sticky engine oil on the inside of the filter.

I am also seeing sawdust and dirt stuck to this oil film inside the filter. To me this indicates that potentially damaging particles are getting into the engine through the choke lever hole in the filter.
 
Stihltech, Nevada,

Thanks for the pointers on filters. I am using the correct one with the felt on it and not the steel mesh.

Is the flocked and steel mesh the same filter? I think I saw a picture of the steel mesh in the repair manual but It didn't look flocked.

I don't see anything in the throat of the carburetor but I suspect that there is sufficient velocity at this point to just suck it into the engine. The evidence of the leak is the stuff stuck to the oil on the inside of the filter. It looks like a little piece of foam around the choke lever might stop the leak.

I don't have access to shop air to blow out the filter so I guess I'll stick to the Dawn dish soap. It seems to get most of the oil out.
 
I just finished rinsing mine out in dawn detergent too. Works great. Thanks for the tip.
SteveSr, I noticed the same spit back from the carb on my filter. It doesn't concern me though. It is the same way on an old snowmobile. Let me know how the foam works if you would.
 
Originally posted by wmthrower
I just finished rinsing mine out in dawn detergent too. Works great. Thanks for the tip.
SteveSr, I noticed the same spit back from the carb on my filter. It doesn't concern me though. It is the same way on an old snowmobile. Let me know how the foam works if you would.

The spit-back isn't really the problem. All 2-strokes will do this. The issue is the dirt that gets stuck to this oil indicating that more is making its way into the engine and causing wear.

I have been using Dawn and an old 1" bristle paint brush with hot water.

The foam sounds like an interesting project but unfortunately it is way down on my current list. I am thinking about a prefilter "sock" that would go over the entire existing filter. I don't know if it would even fit. The idea is sound because my 20 year old Honda lawnmower uses this method. The first paper filter lasted 17 years with the foam prefilter being cleaned and reoiled only once or twice a season.
 

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