Stihl Bar Oil- Is it really worth the price?

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Just for clarification, I don't use STP alone, it is mixed with ATF. STP has what is known as "Adhesive oil" characteristics, able to cling to vertical surfaces with the ATF used as a thinner. Whenever auto transmission fluid is changed, I have two gallons of oil already paid for.
Home brew may work however the economic & physical benefits are questionable when $7 gallon bar oils are available , if your dedicated to a little web search or local suppliers during their monthly sales .
 
Tractor supply oil is the cheapest around here. It looks like 15w40 diesel oil though and you’d have trouble convincing me it not just reject motor oil. I’ll buy whatever is cheapest that or oil.
the Stihl oil is better. But I think last I bought was $19 vs $9.
I’d estimate on the life of a bar I use atleast 10 gallons of oil (really don’t keep track) but at $10X10 gallons that enough money to buy 2 more bars……
I used to be hard core all Stihl all the way. But the new orange jug isn’t near what the OG orange jug was. And the price gap just doesn’t make sense. I’m still sticking with the ultra Stihl motor oil for now. Just bought a gallon this week that should get me through to the next busy season.
The best bar and chain oil known to man was some Quaker state stuff I used to buy 20 years ago. It poured about like stp, but when your running a saw at 100* it’s perfect.
 
What ever wet's your wick brother , i agree its just a chain !
Tractor supply oil is the cheapest around here. It looks like 15w40 diesel oil though and you’d have trouble convincing me it not just reject motor oil. I’ll buy whatever is cheapest that or oil.
the Stihl oil is better. But I think last I bought was $19 vs $9.
I’d estimate on the life of a bar I use atleast 10 gallons of oil (really don’t keep track) but at $10X10 gallons that enough money to buy 2 more bars……
I used to be hard core all Stihl all the way. But the new orange jug isn’t near what the OG orange jug was. And the price gap just doesn’t make sense. I’m still sticking with the ultra Stihl motor oil for now. Just bought a gallon this week that should get me through to the next busy season.
The best bar and chain oil known to man was some Quaker state stuff I used to buy 20 years ago. It poured about like stp, but when your running a saw at 100* it’s perfect.
 
I don't remember buying husky or stihl b&c oil once in my life. Always the cheapest stuff I can find. My bars last years in a commercial setting. If the cheapest bar oil wasn't good enough, I would have changed 20 years ago when I notice short bar or chain life.

I always grab HP ultra for a 50:1 mix while I'm in stocking up in stihl chains and files. I'm getting thousands and thousands of issue free hours on my saws. I wont change my ways until I see premature damage on something. I went to the HP ultra because I learned way back, "any 2 stoke oil" isn't good enough for chainsaws. Learned that lesson on old junk saws though lol. HP ultra has been serving me great for years. I'm no oil expert. I just decided to go with this since I stop in for my chains and files anyway and I'm not changing now because 6.4 oz of that to 2.5 gallons has = very, very, very long engine life for my husky saws.

B&C oil though, nope. Cheapest stuff going and grab a few at a time when I see a deal.
 
Tractor supply oil is the cheapest around here. It looks like 15w40 diesel oil though and you’d have trouble convincing me it not just reject motor oil. I’ll buy whatever is cheapest that or oil.
the Stihl oil is better. But I think last I bought was $19 vs $9.
I’d estimate on the life of a bar I use atleast 10 gallons of oil (really don’t keep track) but at $10X10 gallons that enough money to buy 2 more bars……
I used to be hard core all Stihl all the way. But the new orange jug isn’t near what the OG orange jug was. And the price gap just doesn’t make sense. I’m still sticking with the ultra Stihl motor oil for now. Just bought a gallon this week that should get me through to the next busy season.
The best bar and chain oil known to man was some Quaker state stuff I used to buy 20 years ago. It poured about like stp, but when your running a saw at 100* it’s perfect.
There isn't such a thing as reject oil being sold. If a batch of oil is rejected for whatever reason it would be blended with new oil until it passed specs. In a worst case scenario it would be run back through distillation.
The refining unit I work has what we call a "slop" line. It goes right back to the main distillation unit.
Rejecting or slopping is incredibly rare because ita expensive and is avoided at all cost.
 
I run STIHL HP Ultra at 40:1 in my 50:1 saws (due to premium fuel having ethanol in it), and 30:1 in my 40:1 saws, works great and they don't burn up if something goes slightly wrong and they're running lean.

Bar oil is STIHL Summer (orange bottle), stuff is super tacky and the oiler can be turned down vs. thinner stuff, plus the bars don't burr nearly as fast, so I'm saving money. Next gallon will be Ultra because it's only +$2 gallon and I finally am able to afford to buy/run high-end equipment.

On the older low-end equipment it's probably better to run the big-box oil if the pump can't pump the thick STIHL oil, OR the chain speed is low. Low chain speed and tacky oil causes chips to clog the saw because the chips aren't thrown free. There's nothing wrong with using budget equipment, it sure doesn't want to walk on its own when you're not looking, it's just it likes being in the wood much, much longer than a high-dollar saw.
 
Tractor supply oil is the cheapest around here. It looks like 15w40 diesel oil though and you’d have trouble convincing me it not just reject motor oil. I’ll buy whatever is cheapest that or oil.
the Stihl oil is better. But I think last I bought was $19 vs $9.
I’d estimate on the life of a bar I use atleast 10 gallons of oil (really don’t keep track) but at $10X10 gallons that enough money to buy 2 more bars……
I used to be hard core all Stihl all the way. But the new orange jug isn’t near what the OG orange jug was. And the price gap just doesn’t make sense. I’m still sticking with the ultra Stihl motor oil for now. Just bought a gallon this week that should get me through to the next busy season.
The best bar and chain oil known to man was some Quaker state stuff I used to buy 20 years ago. It poured about like stp, but when your running a saw at 100* it’s perfect.
The TSC oil definitely has a tackiness additive that keeps the oil on the bar longer. It is not engine oil.
 
I run STIHL HP Ultra at 40:1 in my 50:1 saws (due to premium fuel having ethanol in it), and 30:1 in my 40:1 saws, works great and they don't burn up if something goes slightly wrong and they're running lean.

Bar oil is STIHL Summer (orange bottle), stuff is super tacky and the oiler can be turned down vs. thinner stuff, plus the bars don't burr nearly as fast, so I'm saving money. Next gallon will be Ultra because it's only +$2 gallon and I finally am able to afford to buy/run high-end equipment.

On the older low-end equipment it's probably better to run the bix-box oil if the pump can't pump the thick STIHL oil, OR the chain speed is low. Low chain speed and tacky oil causes chips to clog the saw because the chips aren't thrown free. There's nothing wrong with using budget equipment, it sure doesn't want to walk on its own when you're not looking, it's just it likes being in the wood much, much longer than a high-dollar saw.
Not blowing up is a pretty low bar...
Cheap bar oil is good bar oil. At one point in times I went through a tone of it. Mostly Walmart supertech or whatever else that was cheap. Never had bar wear or tip issues.
 
That stihl dealer is seriously taking people for a ride, or not buying in large quantities. one or the other.

I can get stihl for $9.50 at a local stihl dealer in NH and that's pretty normal in these parts.

The TSC is on sale for $6 usually but isn't normally $6 all day every day.

Some of the real cheap stuff and no name stuff is pretty bad, however, if you're looking at a huge disparity it's worth dealing with.

The TSC tends to be pretty good stuff so in your case it's totally worth it.

If you want to run real winter weight and not home brew it yourself cutting down diesel you usually need to go stihl or husky; the no names don't usually put out a winter mix.
I got some at United Ag and Turf, just east of Concord, seemed it was kind of high there. This was 2020, though. Supply chain woes hit I-93 pretty hard, it seems.
 
Menards for me by the case, when on sale and I toss in a quarter can of STP because it's the 'Racers Edge'....lol

Not just the drive dogs that wear, it's the drive sprocket and the bar rails. too. The more you buy the less it costs and unlike fuel, it don't go bad.

Problem with STP adding is you have to heat the STP can to get it to come out in a reasonable amount of time..
 
Interesting. All my used hydraulic oil (and I buy it in 55 gallon drums) as well as the used motor oil (I also get that in 55 gallon drums) goes in the holding tank for my Kleen Burn waste oil furnace that heats the shop in the winter. I usually don't have enough to go the winter so I allow my farmer friends to make 'deposits' as well.
 
Not here. The local TSC (we call it Tough Shitte Charlies, where everything is either scratched, dented or broken) Still carries Husky saws, accessories and bar oil. Was just there to get a couple 2.5 gallon jugs of Rotella T6...:)
 
Not here. The local TSC (we call it Tough Shitte Charlies, where everything is either scratched, dented or broken) Still carries Husky saws, accessories and bar oil. Was just there to get a couple 2.5 gallon jugs of Rotella T6...:)
People that work for them/TSC never worked on a farm/know farming, like Home Despot don't have people who know the trades.

Ask someone a question, it's like taking to a sheep.
 
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