Stihl Bar Oil- Is it really worth the price?

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The question isn't what a good bar oil to buy, the question is what is a bad oil to use.
Other than used engine oil there isn't an oil that is worse than the highest priced bar lube.
The tackifier in bar lube is the one of the biggest advertising con job in the oil industry.
Don't take my word, just warm up bar lube to the operating temp of a B&C. and see how tacky that is.
John
 
The question isn't what a good bar oil to buy, the question is what is a bad oil to use.
Other than used engine oil there isn't an oil that is worse than the highest priced bar lube.
The tackifier in bar lube is the one of the biggest advertising con job in the oil industry.
Don't take my word, just warm up bar lube to the operating temp of a B&C. and see how tacky that is.
John

So what do you use for bar and chain oil?

You are correct, the question basically was whether the cheap stuff was bad for the saw. I have a bunch of the summer weight orange Stihl oil, but it won't work unless it's warm out. It hardly pumps at all when it's in the 50's
 
So what do you use for bar and chain oil?

You are correct, the question basically was whether the cheap stuff was bad for the saw. I have a bunch of the summer weight orange Stihl oil, but it won't work unless it's warm out. It hardly pumps at all when it's in the 50's

Your right most of that goopy stuff is unpourable in the cold. You should see it at 30 below.
I buy transmission hydraulic by the pail, however any grade motor oil is just as good. I sometimes use 30 weight. Buy whatever is the cheapest as long as it can be poured in the cold.
John
 
In the old days when I worked in a Stihl shop we had a product called "rock drill" oil in 55 gal. drums. I don't think we ever had any real Stihl bar oil, but we surely had Stihl two cycle oil.This was the day when everyone used drain oil on their chain. We sold a gallon for a dollar. The funny part was that there were few plastic gallon jugs available in those days except windshield washer jugs. There were no gallon milk jugs yet. We had to remind the guys to bring in their own jugs or cans.

My boss forbid anyone from bringing in glass gallon bottles because one guy dropped a full one on the concrete floor in the shop once! "Never again",,,,said the boss!
 
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i use the cheapest stuff i can find. as far as i can see there is no benefit in buying that over priced stihl oil. i buy my oil by the case when it goes on sale at atwoods. hard to beat the $6 a gallon price when i use so little any way. i probly go through a gallon or so a weekend when im cutting.
 
i probly go through a gallon or so a weekend when im cutting.

Man you must cut ALOT of wood in a weekend. Depending on the size of wood I am cutting, I can heat my home for the winter on less than 2 gallons. And my boiler ran for 6 months last year. And my chains DO NOT run dry.:confused:
 
Stihl features the "sticking" quality of their bar oil as a good reason to pay more for their products, and Stihl owners complain that they don't seem spit out enough oil.

I'd like to see where each label gets their supply and which additives they use. Then, I'd like to see a valid scientific examination on each one, comparing them under similar conditions, using the same saws, under the same temperatures, with the same types of wood, etc. Maybe CR has done something like that. I would bet about 650,000,000 dollars there is practically no difference among them, from the priciest to the cheapest. I don't believe any government entity holds them accountable for any of the claims they make about their oil. They are on their own, although they will say their oil meets certain standards, no one in government is responsible to ensure they are accurate claims, if I'm not mistaken.
 
I was in a small town Husky dealership to pick up oil. He had Husky chain oil for $20 or so, and a no name for $12. I asked him which he would recommend since I'd never dealt with him before. He told me not to bother with the Husky oil, said he used the cheap stuff. He's in Benton KS. Don't remember the shop name but if I ever buy a Husky, I'll drive out to his shop.

I know guys that make a living with their saws. I very seldom see anything name brand in their trucks. I have some Echo oil right now because it was cheap at Lowe's or HD(?).

Sent from my VS880 using Tapatalk
 
Stihl features the "sticking" quality of their bar oil as a good reason to pay more for their products, and Stihl owners complain that they don't seem spit out enough oil.

I'd like to see where each label gets their supply and which additives they use. Then, I'd like to see a valid scientific examination on each one, comparing them under similar conditions, using the same saws, under the same temperatures, with the same types of wood, etc. Maybe CR has done something like that. I would bet about 650,000,000 dollars there is practically no difference among them, from the priciest to the cheapest. I don't believe any government entity holds them accountable for any of the claims they make about their oil. They are on their own, although they will say their oil meets certain standards, no one in government is responsible to ensure they are accurate claims, if I'm not mistaken.
Got a IR temperature gun a while back and amongst other things, found my bars run cooler with canola oil than other bar oils. Canola happens to be the cheapest here too.
 
I was in a small town Husky dealership to pick up oil. He had Husky chain oil for $20 or so, and a no name for $12. I asked him which he would recommend since I'd never dealt with him before. He told me not to bother with the Husky oil, said he used the cheap stuff. He's in Benton KS. Don't remember the shop name but if I ever buy a Husky, I'll drive out to his shop.

I know guys that make a living with their saws. I very seldom see anything name brand in their trucks. I have some Echo oil right now because it was cheap at Lowe's or HD(?).

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Thanks Breetl, I believe it and I think you are smart to give him your future business if you can. Tell him why, too, and maybe more guys will begin to understand how important being honest is to people.
 
Got a IR temperature gun a while back and amongst other things, found my bars run cooler with canola oil than other bar oils. Canola happens to be the cheapest here too.


As Balki used to say, Get out of the city!" Are you serious? Cooler and cheaper? (How about Wesson oil or warmed up margarine? Just kidding.) That's unbelievable. How accurate is an IR gun under these circumstances?
 
Yes. If it helps any, you can rest assured it was not a scientific study. Furthermore, painted, even clear lacquered (as my Tsumura bars were), holds heat. All my bars are now bare steel.


They stopped painting the External Fuel Tank on the Shuttle after the two first flights. Know why? The extra weight. I think it came to more than 600lbs.
 
I use Amsoil Semi-Synthetic Bar and Chain which is a high tack oil to decrease wear on the blade and chain and to help keep the blade cooler. I may also get more cutting power as a result of less friction. It's rather costly though---$22.5 a gallon for a Amsoil Dealer. It would be nice if someone would do a scientific test to rate the major brands of oil, otherwise there is no definitive evidence which is really better.
 
I can get a gallon of generic bar oil at TSC for $6 and Stihl wants $15. Is there anything that much better about the Stihl that's worth the price?

I have a MS290, and I've been running the Stihl oil exclusively in the past, but now that it's out of warranty, I don't want to be wasting money on it.

I like the saw, but the oiler is less than impressive on it. Even with the winter mix, it's barely what I'd consider adequate with the adjuster on full. The chain isn't completely dry, but it doesn't throw much, even at wide open.

Are they all like that, or is my saw defective?

Thanks :)
Thats(tsc) what I've bein running for months now with the occasional splash of diesel in it on a cold day and its pretty good stuff. I waz buying the husky stuff same price or more then sthils and it was ok just not very sticky.
 

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