stihl chain hardness

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JONSSTIHL

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I just filed my new stihl RS chain for the second time by hand and I noticed that the left hand cutters seem much harder than the right hand cutters. I checked the rakers and I lowered every second one with the stihl gauge for the rakers.

also the corner on the softer cutters seems to be rounded out more but the harder cutters are perfect.

I think I will run it like this until it starts cutting crooked then I will actually measure cutter lengths and try to get them equal. I file by hand with the stihl gauge that clips on the file and I do the same number of strokes for each cutter first time was 7 and this time 6 strokes on each cutter.

I remember a thread about this where someone mentioned having noticed a difference in hardness from one side to the other but I couldn't find the old thread with a search.

I also noticed this with my stihl RM chain but to a lesser extent. I swapped to my RS chain to try it out and i haven't been back to the RM to try it again.

the RM chain comes from curt baileys and came with the bar. and the RS chain came from chazy NY.

anyone have any ideas or opinions
 
I haven't noticed one side being slower to file or sharpen than the other, so I'll be interested to what others say.

Two thoughts: I've seen where people tend to have a sequence of filing where they typically have the file sharper and cleaner on their first side.

It doesn't enter directly into this situation, but many grinders I have seen ends up with one sides cutter a little long than the other. How much diff depends on the grinder and it is usually CEFGW. But sometimes it means there is more cutter on one side from the start.
 
JONSSTIHL said:
......

I think I will run it like this until it starts cutting crooked then I will actually measure cutter lengths and try to get them equal. I file by hand with the stihl gauge that clips on the file and I do the same number of strokes for each cutter first time was 7 and this time 6 strokes on each cutter.

..........

7 to 6 stroker per tooth is WAY too much, 2-3 is what it should be, maybe youre running the chain too dull and somehow the other side gets heated up and somehow becomes harder, put for starter, file more often... 2 strokes per tooth is what you should aim for, 3-4 is acceptable if the chain is hit by something badly...
 
I'll have to see how this works out in the long run to see if it really has an effect on cutter length but the chain is definitely not dull it has cut maybe one face cord of wood. I just like to keep my chain sharp so I sharpen it every time I come back from the woods so that I'm ready to go the next time. Less sharpening in the woods. The reason I did so many strokes the first couple times was to give the cutter the shape of the file because the first time I filed it after five strokes I had just started to touch the cutting edge the first four strokes had been in the gullet

I use the file guide that clips on the file

I haven't rocked the chain I may have hit a little dirt but only once. like I said the chain has maybe cut one face cord and the softer cutters have maybe .010" of the tip corner a little rounded back. if it was on all cutters I would have assumed that I hit more dirt than I thought but this is only on the right hand cutters that seem softer

I did the right (soft) side first and I do clean off the file approx. every third tooth. The softness of the material was just an impression I was getting as I was filing because the file was still building up mat'l on it even on the harder cutters but when I set the rakers I figured it was more than just a feeling when I had to lower only every second one

I just wish the person that posted the first thread would see this because I'm sure I am not the only one

thanks
 
I notice this every so often when cutting stumps close to the ground...the right hand cutters will touch dirt and get rounded over just a tad, and the left hand cutters will be fine. I file the right hand cutters to sharp, then file the left hand cutters to the same length.
 
blis said:
7 to 6 stroker per tooth is WAY too much, 2-3 is what it should be, maybe youre running the chain too dull and somehow the other side gets heated up and somehow becomes harder, put for starter, file more often... 2 strokes per tooth is what you should aim for, 3-4 is acceptable if the chain is hit by something badly...
Agree! And its not that the tooth is softer its just that your technique changes when you change sides, slightly different dynamics of your wrist & twist makes it seem like a harder material (wild stabbing guess based on personal experience here lol) practice consistancy in the roll that you give the file so it is consistant on both sides. :) AND, don't forget to tap your file every tooth or two, ie several strokes, to free particles that will dull your file faster! (tip of the day :D) and oh don't file sitting at eye level, best stand up and work over it a bit, but not at face level, just more difficult imho.

:cheers:
 
Sprig said:
Agree! And its not that the tooth is softer its just that your technique changes when you change sides, slightly different dynamics of your wrist & twist makes it seem like a harder material (wild stabbing guess based on wexperience here lol) practice consistancy in the roll that you give the file so it is consistant on both sides. :) AND, don't forget to tap your file every tooth to free particles that will dull your file faster! (tip of the day :D)

:cheers:

When I file, I use an old toothbrush to often clean the filings away (I use a granberg holder so can't tap). Seems to make file last longer too. THese days I grind all my chains except .325 and am glad to be spoiled.
 
B_Turner said:
When I file, I use an old toothbrush to often clean the filings away (I use a granberg holder so can't tap). Seems to make file last longer too. THese days I grind all my chains except .325 and am glad to be spoiled.
Yup, hafta agree mate. I find the little cheap brass brushes, like a finger nail one not the toothbrush ones, are the best though, they last amazingly long and don't hurt anything unless you happen to sit on one :)
:popcorn:
 
I just filed my new stihl RS chain for the second time by hand and I noticed that the left hand cutters seem much harder than the right hand cutters.

My guess, being you are from Canada, is that you are left handed and thats causing the problem.:rock:
 
Its funny this subject has been brought up. I was filing the rakers down on a loop of Stihl RS today and the left hand rakers where much harder than the right. The teeth where of equal hardness. Go figure.
 
blis said:
7 to 6 stroker per tooth is WAY too much, 2-3 is what it should be, maybe youre running the chain too dull and somehow the other side gets heated up and somehow becomes harder, put for starter, file more often... 2 strokes per tooth is what you should aim for, 3-4 is acceptable if the chain is hit by something badly...

It's not the "heating" that hardens the cutters - it's the "work hardening" buy dull cutter impact with the wood. I hate hand filing cutters that have been beat to cap - on the grinder, then finish by hand..
 
Saw Chain

saw chains can be hot after cutting for along period and thats why they tend to be harder to file:blob2:
loggers rule
 
timberrat said:
saw chains can be hot after cutting for along period and thats why they tend to be harder to file:blob2:
loggers rule

I still believe it's is work hardening, not heat treatment.

Heating and then cooling (in air) anneals steel.. not hardens it.. and I can't see any chain getting hot enough for heat related treatments anyhow - it would catch the wood on fire!
 
Last edited:
Lakeside53 said:
I still beleive it's is work hardening, not heat treatment.

Heating and then cooling (in air) anneals steel.. not hardens it.. and I can't see any chain getting hot enough for heat related treatments anyhow - it would catch the wood on fire!


So the wildthings come with that super hard chain you are talking about? :laugh: I've seen many a trees on fire from a wildthing. :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:
 
Freakingstang said:
So the wildthings come with that super hard chain you are talking about? :laugh: I've seen many a trees on fire from a wildthing. :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:


OK, there is always an exception to the rule... and you're it:D :D
 
The heat

To harden steel it must be raised above 1200 deg. F. then quenched. This is not happening while cutting wood.
 
Tzed250 said:
To harden steel it must be raised above 1200 deg. F. then quenched. This is not happening while cutting wood.


You've never seen a wildthing used by the neighbor in a stream, have you?

:rock: :popcorn:
 
Lol

No, but I have seen my neighbor try to use a chainsaw in the friction wood removal mode. More smoke than you could beleive of the B&C.:hmm3grin2orange:
 

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