Stihl Farm Boss 029 Chain Binding Problem

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fbcoach

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I am having trouble with my Stihl 029 Farm Boss. Recently I had a sprocket break and the needle bearing went bad as well. I replaced the sprocket and needle bearing. When using the saw now I am having trouble with the chain binding up on me. Regardless of how I adjust it, it ends up getting very tight and binds up. Sometimes it is loose and then it gets tight. It appears that it is damaging the bar by getting it pretty hot.

Can anyone tell me what might be wrong? Is this a clutch issue? Did I put it back together wrong? Is it a sprocket issue?

Thanks in advance.

Mike
 
Is your oiler working?

Make sure it is atleast getting the chain wet with oil.
 
Are you still running the same chain that you were when the sprocket broke? If so...did you check the drives for burrs or damage?
 
We may be on to something with the oiler. I think it is producing oil, but it seems to be slow or limited. The chain is showing wear as if the oiler is failing. How would I know how much it should be producing? Could it be partially plugged?

If I have to replace the oiler, is it a difficult job? (novice repair guy)

I will check the chain for burrs from the broken sprocket.

Regarding the pitch of the sprocket, I got what the dealer gave me. So, I'm not sure. The chain seems to fit fine.

Regarding the sprocket:

Not only did the chain bind, but once the sprocket bound into the clutch and I had to use channel locks to unbind it. Any thoughts? It all seems related.

Mike
 
You should use about 2/3-3/4 tank of oil per tank of fuel.

Take off the cover and bar and see if oil comes out above idle.
 
Peacock,

Would the theory of low oil on the chain contribute to the sprocket binding within the clutch?

I obviously am limited on my knowledge here.

Mike
 
It looks like I am going to have to go to the dealer again and see if the chain and sprocket match. Correct?

Any other suggestions?

Thanks again.

Mike
 
Well, the bars can get really packed with wood chips which can cause low oil distribution as well as nose binding if it is really plugged.
 
Fbcoach,It sounds to me like some of your chaain drivers have some burrs on them.They are what is causing the chain to feel tight on the bar.As to your oiler, I will guess that you are using winter weight oil.Thick and cold oil is hard for the pump to move, but I will say that your chain drivers are burred causing your problem, Ken
 
Are you still running the same chain that you were when the sprocket broke? If so...did you check the drives for burrs or damage?

Did you replace the sprocket with the same pitch?
-Ralph

These replies make a lot of sense!
Why did the sprocket break??? If it was way worn then the chain that was on it is almost definitely worn as well as well as might have dings from the breakage.

Check the pitch of the sprocket, make sure the chain matches it, make sure the gauge of the bar (width of the slot) and chain (width of the drive link) are the same too. Clean the slot in the bar, make sure the little oil hole is clean.
When running the saw, rev it up and look for a splatter of oil drops on something smooth and clean, it takes a few moments but you should see something, if not, oil is not feeding.

I smell something way wrong when you said you had to use channel locks to get the sprocket off the clutch!
 
I smell something way wrong when you said you had to use channel locks to get the sprocket off the clutch!

This is more normal than you may think - the outer edge of the drum (inside) doesn't get rubbed by the shoes, so it builds up a barrier. Some are a real PITA to get off...channel locks or not.
 
I would be willing to bet that you simply assembled the washers/spacers in the wrong order an IPL would confirm this
 
Okay big mouth.....I'll have it shipped to me..I will video opening the box and If I am right you pay the shipping both ways....If you are right I fix his saw free and ship it back on my dime and the dealer that screwed up if he did gets the egg...what do you want if you are right?
 

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