Stihl Farm Boss 029 Chain Binding Problem

[Lakeside53]

Seems like a silly storm in tree-cup to me...

Why doesn't "someone" just wait for the owner just to say how he put his sprocket washer on... Sheez....

As for the "cd parts list".. well... we probably service 10 029/290/310/390's a week.... and I've just about seen it all, except for the washer being inside the clutch drum.

 

[PES+]

I do apologize for jumping

Outside situations today shortened my fuse and no one needs to catch my misplaced frustration

Sorry Lake

 

[Lakeside53]

No worries.... I'm a bit stir crazy myself today. Big melt going on, which means big mess... can't do squat outside...

 

[PES+]

I get the egg on MY face

I am indeed the "big mouth".........Lakeside PM me your address you have some Maple Syrup coming your way as I was indeed completely wrong on this case

I do again apologize to the poster and all who had to witness my outburst and impatience.

Thank You for standing up to me and not backing down I need to be corrected when I am mistaken and I do appreciate the constructive critique.

:monkey:

 

[Bermie]

This is more normal than you may think - the outer edge of the drum (inside) doesn't get rubbed by the shoes, so it builds up a barrier. Some are a real PITA to get off...channel locks or not.

Ya...yer right! I clean out the inside of the bell housing at least once a month and sometimes the buildup is pretty hard. I can see how if it was never cleaned it could be a problem! Thanks for the reminder.

 

[fbcoach]

Well, I'm sorry to cause all of the trouble.

I am an athletic director in Ohio and have not had a chance to get to the saw and did not get to the dealer today. At this point I have done this:

I replaced the sprocket due to the other one breaking. (probably happened because my son ran the chain to loose too long) Also, the needle bearing was shot so I replaced that as well. The first time the dealer gave me an 028needle bearing, so I had to make a return trip. I reassembled the needle bearing and sproket inside the curved washer and clip (thought it was simple to do). I did not mess with the clutch (way beyond me).

The oiler does not seem to be working properly (I need to look at some of the suggestions). I have no manual for this saw, so I'm not sure where the oiler even is or where it releases the oil from.

My guess is that the sprocket and chain not matching, but it did work fine for some of the time. So, I'm not positive on that. I did save the box for the chain, so I'll report back.

The sprocket locking up happened once. The biggest problem is this:

I'll adjust the chain, it seems fine. I'll fire up the saw and then the chain will get really tight and stress the bar. Sometimes it will loosen, then go tight again.

I am an extreme novice. Maybe I have no business exploring this.

Does someone need to see a picture? I have the ability to take a digital.

Thanks for the discussion.

Mike

 

[04ultra]

check your PM's

 

[PES+]

I apologize again to you for my irrational outburst.

A question.....how long does it take for the chain to tighten up?.....does it tighten as soon as you squeeze the throttle? or does it take a little time?

Also if you take the bar off you will find a small oil hole by the larger adjustment holes. MAke sure these holes are clear and you can run the saw a short time with the bar and cover removed just do not rev the saw up wide open. I would only let it idle first to make sure you do not have a clutch problem. You should see oil come out of the small oil hole above the mounting studs. Be prepared to shut the saw off quickly if you hear any strange noises from the clutch

 

[fbcoach]

I apologize again to you for my irrational outburst.

A question.....how long does it take for the chain to tighten up?.....does it tighten as soon as you squeeze the throttle? or does it take a little time?

Not as soon as I squeeze the throttle, but fairly quickly (I guess a little time) It doesn't really totally bind to a stall (just once) I can cut with it, but it has a quick stop as if it is very tight.

Also if you take the bar off you will find a small oil hole by the larger adjustment holes. MAke sure these holes are clear and you can run the saw a short time with the bar and cover removed just do not rev the saw up wide open. I would only let it idle first to make sure you do not have a clutch problem. You should see oil come out of the small oil hole above the mounting studs. Be prepared to shut the saw off quickly if you hear any strange noises from the clutch

I will check this next. I have brought the saw inside to get the oil warmed up, I'm using a summer/winter oil. It is finally cold here in Ohio.

I checked the sprocket. It is a .325. Other numbers are a Z8. 1125/08

The chain I am using is a 20" 26RM2 81 Semi-Chisel, .325 pitch, .063 guage

I think that matches, correct?

I never touched the clutch, only the sprocket and needle bearing. The chain appears to have no burrs and is very new. (it was on when the old sprocket broke)

Sounds maybe like an oiler problem now?

Thanks,
Mike

ps any pictures needed?

 

[PES+]

Yes it does sound like an oiler issue after you get it warmed up take the side cover bar and chain off and we shall see what's what

 

[04ultra]

 

[THALL10326]

Yes it does sound like an oiler issue after you get it warmed up take the side cover bar and chain off and we shall see what's what

Good job Pest, looks like neither of us hit the nail on the head. You got him covered so follow him on through, good job...

 

[fbcoach]

Thanks all!

Ok, I have to go supervise a basketball game, so I'll finish up tomorrow and post. Here is what I think:

got caught up in the sprocket because it was the original problem when it broke. Then got the wrong needle bearing, but fixed that.

Bar was verrrrrry dirty. Have cleaned that. Oil appears thick from the cold. Warming in the house. Oiler appeared plugged, fixed that. Vent appeared plugged, fixed that.

Oiler appears to working now. I'll do some cutting tomorrow and report my results. Told you I am a novice.

Thanks again, talk to ya tomorrow.

Mike from Ohio

 

[PES+]

And thank you for the IPL page Ultra

 

[PES+]

Hopefully you got it.
Let us know

 

[fbcoach]

Got it all cleaned up. Fired it up without the bar and chain. It appeared the oiler was working. (although I did not run it long)

I got back from the basketball game earlier than I thought I would, so I got after it.

Put it all together, ran it a little bit, no oil on the chain, ran it again, no oil.

Took the cover and bar/chain off again. Ran it, no oil from the oiler, did see air bubbles (dang it). Oil started to show from the bottom of the clutch (double dang it). Cleaned it up. Ran it again, more air bubbles with very little oil. More oil from the bottom of the clutch area again.

Help!

Now what? I'm a novice, can you folks talk me through this (I have a service manual) or is this strictly a pro service job. I'm concerned about removing the clutch to get to the oiler.

Thanks again for your help.

Mike

 

[PES+]

You may want to take it to the dealer unless it is cost prohibitive. Removing the clutch is not all that hard but it is easy to make annoying mistakes that can end up costing more than having a dealer do just the oiler fix.
It is up to you.
The pic shows the order of things under the clutch. Removing the clutch takes a little finesse in locking the piston so that damage or contamination does not occur

 

[Lakeside53]

Can you see any physical damage to the pump? Just take off the sprocket and cover, and look at the bottom right. As I suggested earlier, if the bearing is shot, and the drum goes eccentric, the pump can get "milled" by the drum/pump drive. Sometimes you can just replace the worm; often you entire pump is shot.

Pest is correct... Unless you have the aptitude, the dealer is your best bet.. You have a service manual -so you have to be the judge. It's not all that hard, but ignore the part about the special piston stop and use a 3/8 nylon rope to stop the piston - making sure that the piston is above the exhaust port before insertion of the rope.

 

[fbcoach]

Lakeside,

I really can't tell. I've taken off the clutch, but I just don't see a whole lot there. My guess is that isn't good. There is oil and other residue in that area. My guess is that when it went eccentric damage occurred. But lacking confidence in what I am seeing isn't helping. Looking lower right, but can't see much. The clutch is in the way.

Could the pump be working, but the hose sustained damage? If I run it air with limited oil comes from the hole and oil from the bottom of the clutch as if there was a hose leak.

Mike

ps after further review the suction hose does luck cut

 

[Lakeside53]

Yes. The feed hose is from the bottom. You need to take off the black handle to get to it.