Stihl MS 241 C-M Problem

[hedge hog]

The heat lines are from tempering or Harding of the steel at the edge of the rails

Scrape the paint off a new bar and it will be there.

But to cook the paint off a bar is getting too hot

I have a 441 r oiler on a 20" bar that the guide rail has worn out and the letters worn down before any white base paint has worn off
With the 25" bar it has lost some paint with only 1 chain wore out through it


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[Soren Conradsen]

Thank you for all your comments!

To recap:
As I mentioned previously I had no problems running with an 18" bar in the beginning hence it is not a user fault - it's not like I all of a sudden forgot how to run my chainsaw.
And the problem will occur even when doing vertical cuts and when applying no pressure at all.

Neither is the bar the problem. I know it looks quite worn out especially the tip but that is because of the chain constantly jumping off. It was still a problem when the bar was factory new.
I therefore hardly doubt that the bar is the cause.

The oil is at max. And I believe that the saw comes with an 18" bar in America so I think it can handle it.

 

[Sepia]

Okay, I was wrong about the chain type, but I will take one more stab at it before I quit ha! Did you check the condition of all the drive links? If the chain has been jumping off, there may be bent or dented drive links that will cause the chain to want to ride up and out of the bar.

 

[Soren Conradsen]

Okay, I was wrong about the chain type, but I will take one more stab at it before I quit ha! Did you check the condition of all the drive links? If the chain has been jumping off, there may be bent or dented drive links that will cause the chain to want to ride up and out of the bar.

Could definitely be the reason. The dealer didn't have a 62 link chain in stock so he made one himself. Is it likely that he could have tightened a link too much?
I'll have a closer look at my chain once I get home.

 

[svk]

Could definitely be the reason. The dealer didn't have a 62 link chain in stock so he made one himself. Is it likely that he could have tightened a link too much?
I'll have a closer look at my chain once I get home.

More likely it got bent during an accidental throw and that keeps causing the problems.

 

[Franny K]

It shows 61 drive links in the picture of the bar. I use that bar with the 7 tooth rim drive and 62 though. If you do have the spur drive those do bang up the drive links a good percentage of the time a chain is thrown.

 

[SawTroll]

....

18"for low pro is a long run, sorta like 32" for 3/8ths, that's going to give you a fair amount of play in the chain even if it's at proper tension. For a shorter bar it's harder to get the bottom of the driver to clear the rails and come free.

Those so-called 18" bars just are a bit over 16", so it isn't as much bar as it sounds like.

 

[SawTroll]

Make sure chain is correct pitch and gauge

It obviously is, as it is an Oregon 91 chain.

 

[jackjcc]

Adding an extra driver increases the chain length by a bit. The distance between the sprocket and the ramp of the back of the bar should be minimized. That extra driver will increase that space and that could cause an issue as well, not likely but it's one more thing.


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[SawTroll]

The bar he posted is a 3/8 Picco Bar which is right. What's not right is the crack and chunk missing from the tip & uneven wear of rails around bar nose. Stop running that bar until its either fixed or replaced. Would be interested to see wear indicators on chain tie straps. At minimum from what I can see you need to smooth out the bar nose damage.

The bar surely looks a bit "ragged" around the edges - but for me it is impossible to judge by the pictures if it actually is, or if it just is superficial (finish wear + discoloration)?