Stihl MS 250-Z chain selection help

[330man]

Hello all! I recently purchased a Stihl MS 250-Z chainsaw from the local Ace hardware store. This saw came with the 18" (04 Lite) bar, the chain specs are .325"/1.3mm/0.050"/68 link. That chain quickly stretched and a trip to the store resulted in mass confusion and they sent me home with a Stihl 23RM3 68 chain. This seems to be somewhat of an elusive chain size for such a popular saw (MS 250). I eventually found an Oregon chain p/n 20BPX068G with the same specs, but it's difficult to find in a store and not so common online.

In operation, it seems to me that the Lite bar is indeed, too light. I believe I have the chain tensioned correctly, I just draw it up until the top side of the chain, on the bottom-side of the bar settles into the bar's groove, then lift up on the tip of the bar and tighten the two securing nuts. These chains throw nice big chips when new but dull very quickly, (I'm cutting post oaks, from 2" to 10" diameter). I've gone through 2 Stihl chains, they just stretch so fast, the Oregon chain is still going, but dulls within an hour of cutting. I've been using the Stihl chain file that has the guides, it seems to work OK.

Is there a better or different bar/chain set-up that I could swap out for better service than the combo I currently have? I could be wrong, but I am guessing the dealers order a basic saw and then put whatever bar/chain they want on it? That might explain the reason for the Lite bar on a mid-sized saw - just a guess, could be wrong.

 

[HarleyT]

This past year they started putting on these "lite" bars, and to make things worse, they changed to a .050 ga., so the old chains would not interchange. Also, most dealers are likely slow on stocking the new chains in .050 gauge.
Most folks don't know the differences, terminology, specs., etc.
So a great deal of confusion was needlessly created.

 

[esean]

That chain size is common in Stihl stores around here. It's a good bar/chain combo for a 250, though I'd prefer 16" for dense hardwoods. You shouldn't be getting that much chain stretch. Are you getting enough oil? Any sign of overheating? You could try Husqvarna SP33G chain if it comes in 68 link. It's the correct .325-.050 size.

 

[330man]

That chain size is common in Stihl stores around here. It's a good bar/chain combo for a 250, though I'd prefer 16" for dense hardwoods. You shouldn't be getting that much chain stretch. Are you getting enough oil? Any sign of overheating? You could try Husqvarna SP33G chain if it comes in 68 link. It's the correct .325-.050 size.

Yeah, I believe the chain(s) have gotten pretty hot, and I don't know why. There's been a couple times I've gone to re-adjust the slack and the chain was too hot to touch without a leather glove.

I can get the Stihl 23RM3 68 chain in a couple stores around me, but I'd like to be able to use the Oregon chain as well. Unfortunately, nobody stocks this oddball size so have to wait 4 or 5 days to get one. Ideally, I'd prefer to swap the bar and chain for a more common, or easily obtainable chain. I'm OK with a 16" bar if that's what it takes.

 

[epo]

These “new” Light guide bars are not really new. Stihl simply decided to change the design and nomenclature.

Rollomatic E Mini -> Light 01 (1 rivet)
Rollomatic E -> Light 04 (4 rivets), Light 06 (6 rivets)
Rollomatic E Mini Light -> Light P01
Rollomatic E Light -> Light P04

The part number determines which guide bar and chain you will find in the box.
In the case of your saw, the part number is probably 1123 200 0881.

Starting in roughly 2020, Stihl introduced versions of their .325/.050'' chain with a narrower kerf compared to their existing .325/.050'' chain.
They refer to these chains with a narrower kerf as 'Pro' chains.
In your case you got a chain with the marketing name 23RM3 Pro.
The first four digits of the part number of such chains are 3695.
In comparison, for the previous Stihl chain with a “normal” kerf width and the same cutter links as in their .325/.063'' chain these digits are 3687.

Stihl, starting in Europe, gradually began equipping their chainsaws with similar engine displacement with "narrow kerf" chains.
The same goes for Husqvarna. Only Husqvarna started doing it much earlier, because it used Oregon's narrow-kerf chain (Type 95). And now it also has its own, such as the mentioned by @esean SP33G. But I do not recommend using it with your guide bar. Oregon 20BPX should be OK.

Have you checked that the saw is feeding oil to the bar and chain?





I also hope you don't tighten the chain when it's hot.
Always wait until the chain has cooled down and then tension it so that it doesn't come away from the bar and that it can be moved on the bar by hand (glove!) or with a scrench.

 

[330man]

Thank you epo for all that info! Yes, I have most likely adjusted while it's hot. I go through bar oil, but never noticed it flinging off the chain. I have nothing to compare to, but IMO the saw seems to have a lot of oily residue on the outside by the adjuster knobs and on the bottom side of the case. I purchased a Stihl transport case because I didn't want to put the messy saw in the vehicle, lol. I have I'll watch that video you attached. My scenario was I walked into the store, got handed a saw and sent on my way - I'm new to this.

My thing, is I like to be able to use a more common chain in case I need one real quick, and this current chain (.325"/1.3mm/0.050"/68x) is not it. Even the Stihl dealer only had one on the shelf when I went in to buy one. I don't know if I got better with the tension adjusting or what (I think I was adjusting it too tight starting out), but the Oregon chain has held up much better, and it's quite a bit cheaper.

 

[epo]

Thank you epo for all that info! Yes, I have most likely adjusted while it's hot. I go through bar oil, but never noticed it flinging off the chain. I have nothing to compare to, but IMO the saw seems to have a lot of oily residue on the outside by the adjuster knobs and on the bottom side of the case. I purchased a Stihl transport case because I didn't want to put the messy saw in the vehicle, lol. I have I'll watch that video you attached. My scenario was I walked into the store, got handed a saw and sent on my way - I'm new to this.

My thing, is I like to be able to use a more common chain in case I need one real quick, and this current chain (.325"/1.3mm/0.050"/68x) is not it. Even the Stihl dealer only had one on the shelf when I went in to buy one. I don't know if I got better with the tension adjusting or what (I think I was adjusting it too tight starting out), but the Oregon chain has held up much better, and it's quite a bit cheaper.

When you check as shown in the video if the lubrication is working properly on your saw remember not to push the throttle lever all the way down. 1/2 - 3/4 should be enough.
This is a general rule when working with petrol chainsaws. Do not use full throttle when you are not cutting wood. On the other hand, when you are cutting, always use full throttle.

When you have a new chain, I recommend soaking it in chain and bar oil for a few hours, such as overnight.

When you put such a new chain on the bar tension it properly and work with it for about 2-3 minutes and after that turn off the saw. Let the chain cool down and then correct its tension.

When you use the chainsaw always remember to refill the bar and chain oil. Do this at every opportunity, certainly when you pour gasoline (mixed with two-stroke engine oil) into that other tank. Also check often that the lubrication is working properly.

 

[ChuckMI]

When you are out of fuel, your oil reservoir should be nearly empty. The oil flinging test tells you that some oil is being used, and looking at the reservoir tells you the exact rate of use. If you want a chain really quickly, buy an extra one and keep it wherever you keep your saw supplies.

 

[330man]

When you are out of fuel, your oil reservoir should be nearly empty. The oil flinging test tells you that some oil is being used, and looking at the reservoir tells you the exact rate of use. If you want a chain really quickly, buy an extra one and keep it wherever you keep your saw supplies.

Yes, just a quick guess it looks like I'm using about 1-1/2 to 2 tanks of fuel to one tank of bar oil, so the bar oil is going out, somewhere, lol. I always have two chains when starting out. I also acquired that fancy little Stihl file, it seems pretty easy to use.

 

[stihltech]

OK, I can't stand it anymore. Got to chime in.
An MS250 (and many other Stihl saws) will only use 1/2 to 3/4 tank of oil to a tank of fuel. The smaller homeowner/farm saws are not adjustable.
Like stated before, hold the nose of the bar pointed towards some clean wood. You should see a line of oil on the wood in a short time. If so, the saw is oiling.
The number one reason for heat and stretching-it is dull. Anybody working in a shop sees this daily. Some one sharpens to "just take a little off" when it needed 5 more strokes to get it SHARP.
At least half of the oiler complaints are repaired by sharpening the chain..
As for chain, we sell the RS (Rapid Super )chain 10 to 1.
Yes the switch from 63 to 50 gauge has had issues as no one can tell you what chain they have when they come for a new one. " I bought it here 3 years ago, don't you remember the size and length?" Lucky if we get a model of the saw.
Clean the bar mount, oil holes and clean out the bar groove. Sharpen the chain all the way. The best way I know to tell is to look straight onto the sharpened edge of the tooth. Turn it back and forth in the light. If anything looks shiny, It is dull.
Ready the 'maters!

 

[epo]

As for chain, we sell the RS (Rapid Super )chain 10 to 1.

I would not recommend RS (3690) chains to a beginner. It is better for him to use what he has now, and if he wants to try full chisel one day, then RS3 (3694).

 

[330man]

OK, I can't stand it anymore. Got to chime in.
An MS250 (and many other Stihl saws) will only use 1/2 to 3/4 tank of oil to a tank of fuel. The smaller homeowner/farm saws are not adjustable.
Like stated before, hold the nose of the bar pointed towards some clean wood. You should see a line of oil on the wood in a short time. If so, the saw is oiling.
The number one reason for heat and stretching-it is dull. Anybody working in a shop sees this daily. Some one sharpens to "just take a little off" when it needed 5 more strokes to get it SHARP.
At least half of the oiler complaints are repaired by sharpening the chain..
As for chain, we sell the RS (Rapid Super )chain 10 to 1.
Yes the switch from 63 to 50 gauge has had issues as no one can tell you what chain they have when they come for a new one. " I bought it here 3 years ago, don't you remember the size and length?" Lucky if we get a model of the saw.
Clean the bar mount, oil holes and clean out the bar groove. Sharpen the chain all the way. The best way I know to tell is to look straight onto the sharpened edge of the tooth. Turn it back and forth in the light. If anything looks shiny, It is dull.
Ready the 'maters!

Thanks for the input, I'm learning! Couple questions:

1. Wouldn't a freshly-sharpened edge be shiny? That's what I'm seeing after filing, a nice clean, sharp, shiny metal cutting surface. At least it feels sharp when I run my fingers across it.

2. Is the chain I have a poor choice for cutting oaks? I do like a low-kickback design, as I'm not that experienced using a chainsaw.

 

[epo]

Thanks for the input, I'm learning! Couple questions:

1. Wouldn't a freshly-sharpened edge be shiny? That's what I'm seeing after filing, a nice clean, sharp, shiny metal cutting surface. At least it feels sharp when I run my fingers across it.

I think it would be best if you took pictures of several teeth. Then it would be easier to assess it than just based on the description.

2. Is the chain I have a poor choice for cutting oaks? I do like a low-kickback design, as I'm not that experienced using a chainsaw.

No, it isn't a poor choice.