Stihl MS 291 burnt out after 1 hr

[west041]

Thanks SEAM, I think #2 or #3 seems most likely. Good to get back on topic.

I think SEAM covered the most likely scenarios. Some of you were helpful and I thank you. To the rest of you, bye. If anyone desires to hear how things turn out with Stihl you can post here. I won't be checking in as much now, this has been a pretty negative experience. Happy cutting everyone.

 

[cuttinties]

Oh ,yes I should bring my "big boy" pants. Listen, just because I ask people to be nice doesn't mean I don't have a set of balls. It doesn't take a tough guy to sit behind a computer and act like a know it all ******. It actually takes a cowardly piece of **** to say that type of stuff.

The only people I said were wrong were the ones who said that I was running with the brake on, or had a dull chain, or didn't have the saw clean enough, or some other kindergarten error. I'm fully willing to admit that maybe I worked the saw too hard in a wet piece of spruce. But the brake wasn't on, the chain was moving, and everything else was in tip top shape.

You're a pretty abrasive little fella aren't you? There's an old saying : it's better to be thought stupid and remain silent, than to open your mouth and remove all doubt. Sometimes folks get a little miffed. Don't type faster than you can think. After all its just a chainsaw forum full of hobbyists,professionals and information.

 

[tree monkey]

does this mean he's not coming to visit?

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I wonder if he's gonna join?

 

[Gypo Logger]

Could it be possible that the op simply neglected to grease the bar tip, thus seizing the tip, giving a chain brake on symptom, then putting the brake on when it was actually off, thus causing this irresponsible damage?

 

[tree monkey]

bacon grease?

 

[CR888]

This thread is kinda silly as we only have limited info to form any conclusive diagnossis. My guess is this.......l have not run a 291 but stihls chainbrake system is very similar across their range from homeowner to pro. lf the chainbrake was fully engaged the chain would be stationary and not move like most saws. l believe the op had been preesing on the brake while cutting not completely engaging it to lock but enough to have the brakeband rubbing. Under this theory the op could buck up a tree believing he never had the brake on and even light pressure on the brake will cause heat really fast and considering the saw would be at full throttle this heat build up would do damage fast. Many think the brake is either on/off but if pressure is applied to it which can happen when stumping low to ground ect, it is like driving with your foot lightly on the brake. Based on my theory l would guess Stihl made the correct decision. Does the op wear big gloves or remember possibly touching the brake while using his new saw.

 

[Definitive Dave]

a good pic or two of the inside and outside of the sprocket would change the consensus from 90% certainty to 99%
nobody wants to be wrong
everyone has an investment in being right
in the end it is a 291
DDave

 

[Chris-PA]

I've seen a lot of damage like that on Stihl plastic saws, on Husqvarna saws the damage is around the muffler most often. It's not always operator error either, those clutches and mufflers get plenty hot enough to melt plastic if you use them long enough.

Case damage is not an issue unless the bolts come loose. The muffler outlet location is poorly designed on some saws with plastic top covers (including pro saws) which can result in melted covers.

If the brake band had been rubbing against the drum there would be burn marks mostly on the outside of the drum circumference.

Good point!

The only people I said were wrong were the ones who said that I was running with the brake on, or had a dull chain, or didn't have the saw clean enough, or some other kindergarten error. I'm fully willing to admit that maybe I worked the saw too hard in a wet piece of spruce. But the brake wasn't on, the chain was moving, and everything else was in tip top shape.

You were presented with several analysis of where the heat energy could come from and what possible scenarios could cause that. You had no theory at all of your own, but "know" it could not be anything you did. Personally I think the design is dumb, but you still have to explain why the clutch was slipping that does not involve mis-operation or at least failing to notice the signs - and you have not done that.

 

[big t double]

Thanks SEAM, I think #2 or #3 seems most likely. Good to get back on topic.

I think SEAM covered the most likely scenarios. Some of you were helpful and I thank you. To the rest of you, bye. If anyone desires to hear how things turn out with Stihl you can post here. I won't be checking in as much now, this has been a pretty negative experience. Happy cutting everyone.

im interested to hear how this works out, so im subbing with my .02....so if you agree with SEAM on those two scenarios then you would also agree that those are not warrantable issues? neither scenario would equal a defect in the manufacturing of the saw. the manufacturer can not warrant you operating a saw at half throttle causing damage and they can not warranty a chain jamming and causing it to over heat and cause damage. these are both operator issues. but good luck with your claim. I hope it works out for you...sometimes stihl will cover things on good faith just to keep a customer happy.

 

[stihl sawing]

Where the hell are the mods on this forum anyway? Doesn't anyone put a stop to the blatant trolling going on? Does anyone welcome new members around here? I promise you this will be my last thread the way things are going. The folks over at "Chainsaw collectors .se" are a lot nicer. I've been on a few other forums like hearth .com and mytractorforum and always had a good experience. I see many of the sarcastic and smart ass posters here are veterans of the forum. Good for you guys! What a great example you all set!

Relax, No one is calling you names. You ask for opinions and you're getting them. some you don't like but that's the way it is. In a large forum like people are going to have a different viewpoint. The ones you don't like you have to acknowledge them and move on, Also welcome to the site even though you joined two years ago.

 

[greendohn]

My pal had a 291 that cooked the plastic surrounding the drum,,IT WAS WARRANTED with a BRAND NEW SAW from the stealership in Greensburg, Indiana, as it should have been.
The OP has alluded to the fact he's been running saws for years without trashing 'em,,I can't see where he would suddenly develop a brain fart and not know how to run a saw..
I cut firewood with my pal for nearly every truckload he cut with the saw that failed, I even ran it occasionally with zero indications of any "running with brake on" or any other signs or symptoms the saw was not running well.
Perhaps there is a flaw in the design somewhere or perhaps some saws left the factory DOA,,I dunno.
OP, I sure hope Stihl will stand behind the junk they sold you and resolve the shortcomings with whoever it is denying your warranty claim,,Peace.

 

[lone wolf]

Could it be possible that the op simply neglected to grease the bar tip, thus seizing the tip, giving a chain brake on symptom, then putting the brake on when it was actually off, thus causing this irresponsible damage?

How about pinched the bar and seized the tip? I never grease them you were joking right?

 

[KenJax Tree]

Stihl tips don't need to be greased or even have a hole so that isn't the problem.

 

[lone wolf]

Stihl tips don't need to be greased or even have a hole so that isn't the problem.

A pinched tip sure could heat things up.

 

[KenJax Tree]

A pinched tip sure could heat things up.

Yup that'll do it

 

[Jed1124]

I like to grease my tip from time to time.

 

[Weesa20]

I had a friend (he was new to this forum) who pinched the bar in the cut and tried to power through and burned up the plastics on his MS291...had another friend (also new to this forum) who had years and years of experience cutting but not with modern saws with chainbrakes...I think they were 041 and 031 without chainbrakes and another saw, maybe an 028- not sure about that. I have never run any of those saws, but my guess is that they are going to have more torque and be less "peaky" than the smaller displacement modern engine design MS291...I think my friend was lifting the handle and muscling the saw through the cut instead of letting it do the work and intermittently, but frequently, bogged the saw allowing the clutch to slip and generate heat and burned up the plastic on the MS291. I can't remember what sprocket/chain/bar combo he was running, but that would be interesting to know, as well, because the wrong combo would allow the engine to bog more frequently and the clutch to slip. Operator with years and years of experience was cutting the same way he had always cut and didn't adjust his style for the new saw. He wanted it covered under warranty and Stihl said GFY, and rightfully so!

I know these scenarios don't apply to this situation because there is no way possible that it was operator error even though it was a brand new saw to him with a (likely) very different powerband and maybe a less than optimal sprocket/bar/chain combo, just some food for thought since the OP has not offered any other viable options on what part failed leading to the carnage and which should be warrantied. Maybe Hearth.com (a different website referenced above) will give some advice on decorating his living room and also what happened to the saw.

 

[stihl sawing]

Bar oiler stopped working or stopped up, that would melt a few things. Look at the bar and see if it is burn't

 

[super3]

I established at the beginning that I have more than enough cutting experience to know what I'm doing.