Stihl MS261 - insulation mat (missing part nr)

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MartDalb

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heya everyone

One of the simple questions...I hope.

Got my hands on a Stihl MS261 - in good condition.

But I am missing the part nr. for the "insulation mat" under the muffler.

It came off during cleaning, and the IPL I have doesn't show the part nr. and I can't find it any other place.

The service manual describes it, as a "heat insulation mat".

Anyone able to help out? Perhaps the item is simply no longer in production, and thus really not needed?

See pictures.
 

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heya everyone

One of the simple questions...I hope.

Got my hands on a Stihl MS261 - in good condition.

But I am missing the part nr. for the "insulation mat" under the muffler.

It came off during cleaning, and the IPL I have doesn't show the part nr. and I can't find it any other place.

The service manual describes it, as a "heat insulation mat".

Anyone able to help out? Perhaps the item is simply no longer in production, and thus really not needed?

See pictures.
Gonna be at my stihl shop tomorrow. I'll check with him to see what he says. He's a pretty sharp guy.
 
Gonna be at my stihl shop tomorrow. I'll check with him to see what he says. He's a pretty sharp guy.
Sounds good thanks!

I mean, I could reuse it, I am pretty sure its being held down by the muffler as well.

The Service manual does say, replace if loose or misshaped though...

Not sure if its really needed, unless running the saw extremely hot, the muffler should never burn so hot into the case.

But, I like these small things :laugh:
 
Sounds good thanks!

I mean, I could reuse it, I am pretty sure its being held down by the muffler as well.

The Service manual does say, replace if loose or misshaped though...

Not sure if its really needed, unless running the saw extremely hot, the muffler should never burn so hot into the case.

But, I like these small things :laugh:
Replace it with some 3M stuff like it from the auto store, you can cut and stick it on.
 
Oh, while I am at it.

The oil pump is solid STUCK on this thing.

The wormdrive/gear was broken from trying to run it.

Any suggestions how to loosen up a stuck oil pump, is welcome.

So far, when I have had stuck pumps, I have soaked them in Oregon MX14 for a day or two.


This however, won't budge at ALL, tried heating it up ever so gently as well, no luck.
 
Was it running canola oil through it before it seized up? A new pump and pickup line may be in your near future.
No idea.

But as with all saws I get in, I check the stuff that comes out of the oil tank.

It wasn't pretty - blueish, goo with sticky stuff in blobs coming out....even a small spring ran out with the "oil".

I hate that kind of stuff, but not the first I have seen like that.

Seller has already agreed to compensate for a new oil pump + wormgear, if I am not able to salvage the pump.
I like those kind of sellers, fair and honest folks.
 
No idea.

But as with all saws I get in, I check the stuff that comes out of the oil tank.

It wasn't pretty - blueish, goo with sticky stuff in blobs coming out....even a small spring ran out with the "oil".

I hate that kind of stuff, but not the first I have seen like that.

Seller has already agreed to compensate for a new oil pump + wormgear, if I am not able to salvage the pump.
I like those kind of sellers, fair and honest folks.
Hardened canola will test your patience, sets up like the hardest kind of glue and little if anything dissolves it quickly.
 
Sounds good thanks!

I mean, I could reuse it, I am pretty sure its being held down by the muffler as well.

The Service manual does say, replace if loose or misshaped though...

Not sure if its really needed, unless running the saw extremely hot, the muffler should never burn so hot into the case.

But, I like these small things :laugh:
These are designed to keep muffler heat out of the oil tank.
 
Oh, while I am at it.

The oil pump is solid STUCK on this thing.

The wormdrive/gear was broken from trying to run it.

Any suggestions how to loosen up a stuck oil pump, is welcome.

So far, when I have had stuck pumps, I have soaked them in Oregon MX14 for a day or two.


This however, won't budge at ALL, tried heating it up ever so gently as well, no luck.
Put up a photo of the pump. If it is metal you might be able to disassemble it and clean it up.
 
Put up a photo of the pump. If it is metal you might be able to disassemble it and clean it up.
Here you go.

It is the metal one..

Id like to try and take it apart. Learning is good.

I will probably buy a new pump no matter what at this point.

I got it to spin, but it has a certain point where it stops and I have to use a screwdriver to push it further round.
 

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Here you go.

It is the metal one..

Id like to try and take it apart. Learning is good.

I will probably buy a new pump no matter what at this point.

I got it to spin, but it has a certain point where it stops and I have to use a screwdriver to push it further round.
Use a small sonic tank with Dawn, Tide liquid and water. It will take several cycles. The harsh degreasers will degrade the aluminum as well as O-rings.
 
Oh, while I am at it.

The oil pump is solid STUCK on this thing.

The wormdrive/gear was broken from trying to run it.

Any suggestions how to loosen up a stuck oil pump, is welcome.

So far, when I have had stuck pumps, I have soaked them in Oregon MX14 for a day or two.


This however, won't budge at ALL, tried heating it up ever so gently as well, no luck.
Put up a photo of the pump. If it is metal you might be able to disassemble it and clean it up.
Here you go.

It is the metal one..

Id like to try and take it apart. Learning is good.

I will probably buy a new pump no matter what at this point.

I got it to spin, but it has a certain point where it stops and I have to use a screwdriver to push it further round.
See the control bolt (adjustment screw) shaft. About halfway down is a black about 1mm diameter roll pin. Push out the roll pin using a suitable pin in a drill press or similar.

Once the pin is out the control bolt can be pulled straight out. That should allow the pump piston to move towards the brass end plug and will free up a straight through path to the in and out of the pump. The control bolt may have one or two "O" rings on it to seal the shaft. Once the "O" rings are removed there is nothing but metal left.

Control bolt removal and piston shift may allow enough access for solvents to clean everything. If not your next step is to figure out if you can remove the brass plug on the left side. Older pumps had a plastic plug. Newer ones have apparently moved to the brass plug to discourage disassembly and repair. I don't know how tight it is in there. At this point you don't have a lot to loose.

Let us know how you make out.
 
Put up a photo of the pump. If it is metal you might be able to disassemble it and clean it up.

See the control bolt (adjustment screw) shaft. About halfway down is a black about 1mm diameter roll pin. Push out the roll pin using a suitable pin in a drill press or similar.

Once the pin is out the control bolt can be pulled straight out. That should allow the pump piston to move towards the brass end plug and will free up a straight through path to the in and out of the pump. The control bolt may have one or two "O" rings on it to seal the shaft. Once the "O" rings are removed there is nothing but metal left.

Control bolt removal and piston shift may allow enough access for solvents to clean everything. If not your next step is to figure out if you can remove the brass plug on the left side. Older pumps had a plastic plug. Newer ones have apparently moved to the brass plug to discourage disassembly and repair. I don't know how tight it is in there. At this point you don't have a lot to loose.

Let us know how you make out.

This is super advice!

Thanks! :cheers:

I will get right on it!
 

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