ColdStihl
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Will do. Thanks for the encouragement!
Stihl MS291 questions
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Will do. Thanks for the encouragement!
ColdStihl
Now the leg, huh?
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This weekend I put 4 more tanks of fuel through the saw, and the yellow RM chain performed well. What I did notice at the end of the day was a "dark motor oil" looking build-up on and around the muffler and covers up front. Is my L set too rich (or is it my 40:1 mix)? I shake my fuel container before every fill. I was doing a lot of lower RPM limbing, more like roller coaster revving, and was wondering if this is why I had not seen this before. Since I bought the saw, I've only done WOT in-the-cut bucking on 18"-30" logs. The limbing on those logs was done with my old smaller saw, which it is still good for. Thoughts on what I should do? I do notice that the saw 4-strokes on low RPM throttle.
7sleeper
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Low reving and "oil output" is normal. Until you get serious carbon build up it will take a lot and a lot of low reving. I wouldn't worry a second as long as you have it mainly at WOT = wide open throttle. But I would still pressure your dealer to recheck the carb settings after 15-20 refills. Then your saw should be nicely run in.
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Rockjock
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7 the taking it back to the dealer for a carb recheck is only in the EU I found. Most of the shops I have been to will just start the saw and listen to it. 1 shop actually pulled the spark plug to have a look and then wrote up a work order to bill Stihl for the 5 mins of labour.
7sleeper
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I mean that is what I would consider service. Holding the tach to the saw and using the screwdriver if needed. The whole thing would be finished in less than five minutes. I know some stores that even have a large trunk outside exactly for that. And my Stihldealer doesn't even take money for a check, althoug I generally recomend a tip if the saw wasn't bought there!
Well this clearly shows what a store close by is worth.
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Well this clearly shows what a store close by is worth.
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Rockjock
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I agree with you. At the stihl dealer I was at in Germany they had the log in the back and the Meister there would tune each and every saw sold new or brought in for service. Small town everyone knows everyone so this bloke never had to buy beer ever LOL I have brought broken chains in and they simply ask who is it for, drop the right name and they fix it gratis. Then again most people drop quite a bit of cash when getting a saw. Extra chains, the case, face shield/ hard hat / hearing protection the pants some files.. etc..
ColdStihl
Now the leg, huh?
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Appreciate the responses, as usual. Ok, I will see the oily residue as being normal. Just wanted to be sure.
Yep, I walked away with the case, the chaps, a plastic wedge, the sharpening kit, the 16" bar and chain, another 20" chain. Not saying the shop owes me anything, but I have a feeling they would help me out with minor issues. I asked for all of the extra stuff, so I didn't have to be "sold" on anything. A bit surprised he didn't close early for the day.
Yep, I walked away with the case, the chaps, a plastic wedge, the sharpening kit, the 16" bar and chain, another 20" chain. Not saying the shop owes me anything, but I have a feeling they would help me out with minor issues. I asked for all of the extra stuff, so I didn't have to be "sold" on anything. A bit surprised he didn't close early for the day.
I am a huge fan of the EPA so I would never do this, but.....I know a guy who had a 291 in his shop with a toasted P&C so it made sense to check out the carb before putting new parts in to it.
He said that a metal dry wall screw and vice grips will remove the metal limiter cover and a cheap soldering iron from NT can be used to melt off the tab (make sure there's no gas fumes around so you don't blow yourself up). Tune the saw using needle nose pliers to adjust the screw. When satisfied, reinstall the metal limter.
When a standard Stihl orange screwdriver meets a flat file, it becomes the perfect "special" screw driver for fitting in the metel cover slot. Unfortunately this is only a partial solution since the metel cover also acts as a limter- my friend doesn't have a die grider or Dremel, but one could probably grind the inner ridge off the limiter hole wall to end up with a fully adjustable carb.
He said that a metal dry wall screw and vice grips will remove the metal limiter cover and a cheap soldering iron from NT can be used to melt off the tab (make sure there's no gas fumes around so you don't blow yourself up). Tune the saw using needle nose pliers to adjust the screw. When satisfied, reinstall the metal limter.
When a standard Stihl orange screwdriver meets a flat file, it becomes the perfect "special" screw driver for fitting in the metel cover slot. Unfortunately this is only a partial solution since the metel cover also acts as a limter- my friend doesn't have a die grider or Dremel, but one could probably grind the inner ridge off the limiter hole wall to end up with a fully adjustable carb.
Rockjock
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Rockjock
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5910 890 2306 is the screwdriver you need I believe.
These do it :
5910 890 4502 A - puller
5910 890 2306 - Screwdriver
5910 890 4502 A - puller
5910 890 2306 - Screwdriver
ColdStihl
Now the leg, huh?
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You guys are awesome!
In the carb pic with the limiter removed, I take it the metal key needs to be ground out for unlimited adjustment? Or could the adjuster be turned out half a turn, limiter replaced and it would appear stock?
In the carb pic with the limiter removed, I take it the metal key needs to be ground out for unlimited adjustment? Or could the adjuster be turned out half a turn, limiter replaced and it would appear stock?
for unlimited adjustment, one would need to grind off the "rib" on the wall of the cavity (at about the 12 o"clock position in the 5th carb pic).
Doing it the pictured way will give pretty good results, I think. Just get it tuned with either needle nose pliers to turn the white part or the correct tool to turn the actual screw and then replace the cover and it will look stock.
Can you buy those tools from Stihl or do you have to find an aftermarket source?
Doing it the pictured way will give pretty good results, I think. Just get it tuned with either needle nose pliers to turn the white part or the correct tool to turn the actual screw and then replace the cover and it will look stock.
Can you buy those tools from Stihl or do you have to find an aftermarket source?
Hi guys im new to this site hope to get to know yall, this is my 1st message
Anyway was wondering if unlimited adjustment(richening) will be enough for muffler mod
Anyway was wondering if unlimited adjustment(richening) will be enough for muffler mod
ColdStihl
Now the leg, huh?
- Joined
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- 156
- Reaction score
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Hi guys im new to this site hope to get to know yall, this is my 1st message
Anyway was wondering if unlimited adjustment(richening) will be enough for muffler mod
I'm trying to stay in my lane because I too am just learning, but I would say YES. Ultimately, this is why I want to remove my limiter.
Welcome! What an honor it is to have you post first in my first thread.
ColdStihl
Now the leg, huh?
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I really wish those photos were clearer so that I can see the tips better. I can't tell if the top driver is threaded or smooth, and I can't tell if the bottom driver is flat head. If you can retake your pic on Macro (flower icon) setting and get closer to the tips, I can see what I'm working with. If you can't, no big deal. Totally appreciate your contribution!
