Stihl MS461 oiler

[Grey]

for what its worth you don't need the whole pump...you can just get a new piston pump and control bolt from the wrap model oil pump setup. 1128 647 0602 for piston and 1128 647 4803 for control bolt...maybe want a new roll pin if you mess it up taking it out. 9380 620 1090.

Perfect! I'll see what they want for these.

 

[Grey]

Look like about $35-40 for parts, but my local dealer didn't think the H.O. parts would fit in the standard body (?). Anyone actually done this conversion with these part to be sure? I would really hate to waste the money on parts but I sure would like to save the money if it will work.

 

[big t double]

yes it will work. your dealer is wrong. the body is the same between the two pumps. ive sold the ho pump parts to a guy that installed them himself . they work fine. politely ask your dealer to stop telling you what he thinks you need and just get you the parts you want.

 

[Grey]

Actually, this dealer is really a good guy. He was just looking out for me. He knows there is no way in heck I'll pay $100 for the OEM HO. He admitted he wasn't sure if the parts would work, but did notice that the standard and HO bodies have different part numbers, so he couldn't guarantee it would work.

 

[big t double]

i don't doubt hes a good guy, most are and do try to be helpful...What were the part numbers he came up with for the bodies anyways?

 

[Grey]

yes it will work. your dealer is wrong. the body is the same between the two pumps. ive sold the ho pump parts to a guy that installed them himself . they work fine. politely ask your dealer to stop telling you what he thinks you need and just get you the parts you want.

By the way, thanks for letting me know. That is reassuring and makes the decision much easier.

 

[Grey]

i don't doubt hes a good guy, most are and do try to be helpful...What were the part numbers he came up with for the bodies anyways?

didn't ask this, sorry.

 

[Wood Doctor]

I had trouble with a 460 not oiling great, even on an 18" bar. Fixed it by thinning the bar oil a bit with a cup or so of diesel in a gallon of bar oil.

I have fixed half a dozen saws this way in a similar manner that refused to oil enough. I pour in two or three ounces of mixed fuel first and then add the bar oil to the top. You can remove the bar, start the saw, rev it, and watch the oil start to come through the oiler hole. After it does, replace the bar and chain. The idea is to "prime the pump and unblock the gunk".

 

[big t double]

didn't ask this, sorry.

if you think about it ask him and ill double check the numbers. I cant find a part number for just the body anywhere. I have ipl's that go back to the 90's. the 461 and 046 use the same pump. im wondering if the different in part numbers he is coming up with is the h.o. pump vs the standard pump. which yes, would show different numbers.

 

[Grey]

if you think about it ask him and ill double check the numbers. I cant find a part number for just the body anywhere. I have ipl's that go back to the 90's. the 461 and 046 use the same pump. im wondering if the different in part numbers he is coming up with is the h.o. pump vs the standard pump. which yes, would show different numbers.

You were right on. He was looking at the whole pumps 1128 640 3250 vs. 1128 640 3206 and assuming (but not sure) they were completely different and trying to keep me out of trouble. He's totally willing to order the parts for me if I want.

 

[MustangMike]

Believe it or not (don't ask me how I know this), my 362 C WILL NOT START if you put mix in the oil reservoir! I think these smart saws are sometimes a little smarter than people realize.

 

[mdavlee]

The parts fit. The bodies have the same number on them. I don't remember it off the top of my head though.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Believe it or not (don't ask me how I know this), my 362 C WILL NOT START if you put mix in the oil reservoir! I think these smart saws are sometimes a little smarter than people realize.

Good to know, Mike. I have to wonder how Stihl figured out a sensor in the bar oil tank that must connect to the ignition somehow. And, how can it detect any difference in oil thinners? I suppose an option would be to use a very light-weight oil, such as brake fluid.

 

[Grey]

Actually, the picture I found on another site says the #'s are the same, but if you look closely, they are not the same, the standard has 2144 in the second line and the h.o. has 2124. Neither one has the actual part number. Even so, are the holes that the plunger and screw go into machined? If so, is it possible that they use the same/similar casting and machine the holes different, I've never been inside one? I'm very much a novice and I mean no disrespect, just thoughts I'm having. I just really don't want to waste money.

 

[big t double]

Sh!t man I'll buy the parts off you if they don't. How bout that I dig it though. Tryin to trust a buncha folks on an Internet forum you can't put a face too.

 

[mdavlee]

The oilers bodies are the same. I've swapped the parts before as well.

 

[lone wolf]

Roll pin for disassembly. Control bolt then comes out. Pull/twist brass bushing out gently with pliers, its pressed in. Plunger then comes out, retain washers and spring.

Grind down shoulder of control bolt so it turns further clockwise, gaining a taller position on lobe. This makes the plunger travel further in and out, more capacity.

If that doesn't suit your needs, the lower slope on the plunger can be ground lower for more travel also.

Credit: mdavlee

How much do you grind off the shoulder?

 

[mdavlee]

How much do you grind off the shoulder?

.010" is about .25mm which is what the HO adds.

 

[lone wolf]

.010" is about .25mm which is what the HO adds.

Thanks.

 

[Greenthorn]

.010" is about .25mm which is what the HO adds.

Yes, stupid question for the night, sure I got more....but this works the same with all oilers from 260 thru 461's...right. I mean, we can make this dremel modification to any adjustable oiler?

Now I hafta wonder if this is how PILTZ gets more oil to his 36" bar 261's