Stihl Question??

[Drive_1305]

Stihl 028 Question??

A guy at work, he's 25, has a Sthil saw(20" bar) that he said he would take $50 bucks for, but then again he said he would talk it over with his dad. He didn't know what model it was, but he's using a MS 250 now and thought it was a couple sizes bigger than that. He thought it was a model from the early 90's and its been sittin up for 7 years but it had been a pretty good saw. Im sure its not a pro saw so Im thinking its probably an 029 or one about that size. Its probably going to need new fuel line and other parts that have gummed up. Do you guys see me having to buy some Stihl only parts, like molded linesand rubber cushions, that might get pretty expensive or does aftermarket lines usually do the job?

Im thinking after he talks to his dad he won't sell or the price will go up some so I need an idea.

Thanks!

 

[sawinredneck]

Without a model number it's very hard to say, watch e-bay, see what that model sells for and figure half of that is ussually the going rate. E-bayers have been going crazy lately!!
Andy

 

[Lakeside53]

It could be anything from an 026,028, 034,036 (hmmmm,,,) 029 etc... or even an 031/32. For $50, it doesn't matter... buy it if it is half way decent shape.. Stihl Fuel and impulse lines are only $4-$7....

 

[Drive_1305]

I got the saw its an Stihl 028 WB and a good looking Stihl case. Are they pretty good saws? The saw looks good, its just dirty and oily. Its seems to have good compression- it holds up by the rope good and I put my thumb over the plug hole and compression felt good, but then neither test gives a psi reading. I tried grounding the plug on the cylinder and checking for spark- I didn't get a real good pull, but I didn't see anything. Im thinking maybe there's corrosion on the flywheel magnets and pickup. I usually clean them up with some fine sand paper and cleaner. Is this the best way? I think it has a brake but it didn't seem to be working right- then maybe it doesn't the hand guard seems to move back and forth. I removed some small screws and tried to get the sprocket cover off but couldn't I lifted it up some and saw a gear so I thought better leave it alone for now. Seemed like some oil was running from under the cover so I want to check it out and clean it. How does that cover come off? The air cleaner looked pretty dirty so I thought I better take the muffler off check out the cylinder and piston. Does it come off pretty easy? Seems like every screw and bolt Ive removed so far Ive boogered it up some so Im thinking Im going to do more damage than good. Thanks for any tips.

At Acres site it shows more info for the 028AV type2. It it about the same as the 028 WB?

 

[Kenskip1]

028

Drive, Does this saw have a chain break?If so the saw may have electronic ignition.If it does,have the owner take it to the shop. I think that this saw will have a lifetime warrante on the ignition module.I could be mistaked. Does the saw say 028WBEQ? The E stands for electronic ignition. The Q is for the Quickstop. Ken

 

[Lakeside53]

This saw will likely be before the lifetime warranty ignition policy was put in place, and in any case, it only applies to the original owner. If is Electronic and has a brake it will say that on the model plate on top of the shroud. "Electronic Quickstop".


The side cover comes off by removing the screws, then the circlip on the end of the crank, remove the washer and rim (if ths type) and then the big circlip on clutch drum. Just lift off the cover and you see the the oil pump gears etc.

 

[Drive_1305]

All it says on the top cover is 028 WB. Must be an older saw than I thought. Doesn't look that old I just assumed it would be electronic. I saw a little fire now and then. I don't know much about them, there' wires running up under the flywheel so I assume its got points. I'll get a big thick green chainsaw service book from the library maybe that will help. If not maybe ya'll can....Thanks!

To remove the flywheel nut do you turn it clockwise or counterclockwise? The service book says some are 43cc some are 47. Any way to tell? I don't see a serial number. One sticker has a number 311Y and something about 1979 ANSI standards. On the cylinder head is a number 1712. Must been built around 79, 80 or so. Dog gone thought it was going to be a newer, bigger saw. Oh well!

 

[lcso10]

Sounds like the old points style saw. But still a god saw. You can replace the points with an aftermarket electronic box or replace the coil and points system you have with a late model coil part# 0000-400-1300. The bad part is that the Stihl coil cost around $65.00 to $75.00. After either of these procedures are done most likely you will have a jam up saw.

 

[Lakeside53]

The flywheel nut is "normal thread", but you then need to thread in the Stihl puller and extract it from the tapered shaft. Don't use a screwdriver or hammer... your stihl dealer will likely pull it off for a nominal charge if you get it prepared.

The list price on the 0000 400 1300 Stihl coil is about $103... You can get them used for $20-35. Not sure if you also need the -1206 flywheel though... If you are going to replace the coil or use a trigger module, you don't need to remove the flywheel - just snip the wires.

 

[Drive_1305]

Well I did what you said don't do and used a screw driver and hammer. It popped off pretty easy so I don't think I damaged it The points seem to be stuck open. I've took them off and going to try and free them up. Hopefully I can get the points working enough to put it back together to see if I have a spark and find out if the coil is good. The primary measured 1.8 ohms and secondary 2.4k seems like thats ok, but my ohm meter seems a little screwy it measure 3k not even hooked up. I see those iginiton replacement modules on ebay for $16. Will they work on this 028? How do they bolt down and sense when to fire? Thanks!

 

[Lakeside53]

Just mount the module to one off the coil screws. They sense the point to trigger by the rise in voltage (the "back EMF") generated by the coil as the magnet approaches.

Make sure you torque the flyheel back down... and that it and the crank stub are completely free of grease (use a solvent).

 

[JONSSTIHL]

can someone enlighten me as to why the crank has to be grease free when replacing the flywheel.

I would think that as long as there is no debris in between the flywheel and the crank it would be fine.

my old flywheel had sheared off it's keyway so I have to replace it

thanks

 

[Mr.]

You' re messing up the bolts because they are t-27 not T-25.

Fred

 

[Lakeside53]

can someone enlighten me as to why the crank has to be grease free when replacing the flywheel.

I would think that as long as there is no debris in between the flywheel and the crank it would be fine.

my old flywheel had sheared off it's keyway so I have to replace it

thanks

The taper-shaft fit locks by the taper surfaces mating perfectly, not the key. The key is only for position and to stop the flywheel from moving during the tightening process. If the key is broken, it's because the flywheel was not torqued down correctly, or had grease on the stub. The tightening actually stretches the flywheel onto the shaft creating a very tight friction fit.


Grease stops the surfaces from mating correctly, and, can reduce friction so that the flywheel is pulled too far onto the crank. This can place large stresses on the flywheel and result in failure. It particularly important on the newer "wide taper" flywheels like the MS361, and the entire MS210 through MS390 range. You can easily crack these if you torque down with a oily shaft/flywheel.

 

[Drive_1305]

I worked on my saw today- cleaned the points, checked the coil, cyl & Piston and thought everything looked good. So I put it together-No fire. Took it back apart and the primary wire is broke right at the coil

Here's the way I set the points is it right? I put the flywheel on loose and left the coil ungrounded. Then I set my multimeter to continuity test and poked the red test meter thru the insulation on the primary and connected the black to ground. Put saw switch on run. With the points closed the meter buzzed. Then I kept removing the flywheel and readjusting the points until they opened when the flywheel marks align(meter didn't buzz).

Back to my coil. I rechecked the coil with another multimeter and the primary is .7 ohms and secondary 8k which goes along with what the service manual states. I'd like to try and repair it just to see if the saw is going to run. Anyone ever repaired one? Im going to have to dig into the insulation and soilder on a wire. How thick is that insulation-how far can I dig into it? Got any other tips?