Stihl repair help please

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Interesting... I searched the 271 to 291 IPL and Service Manual that I have and no transfer cover was found.
"Stihl" must consider the Cylinder and transfer cover as (Monolithic) a one piece part as the Transfer cover is supposedly permanently glued to the cylinder. (Speculation by me)
 
Interesting... I searched the 271 to 291 IPL and Service Manual that I have and no transfer cover was found.

Because an IPL is an illustrated part list- and the transfer covers are not deemed a stand alone part.
Go page to page one, post one- blow up the provided photograph and you will see the Stihl number 1141 63 A (as indeed @HarleyT did) and you see it is a 271 with transfer covers factory chemically bonded to the cylinder- until they become unbonded.
 
We use this at work for last ditch scenarios..... Like JB Weld 10x on steroids but hard to get and expensive!

https://www.belzona.com/en/products/1000/1511.aspx
I used this stuff on a CAT engine. The lower liner O ring area was cavitated leaking coolant into the oil pan. . Buffed the area with carbide burr filled with belzona and sanded. Never had a problem again on it. That was on a 3406B.
 
I started a thread talking about the same problem, didnt see this one, I have with my Stihl ms251c. manufacturer says " it cant be fixed" ********! I will fix it! I used jb superweld, I'll know later today if it worked.
 
What model are you getting a coil for? The one that you were asking about the flywheel?
Some folks just like self abuse... There is likely nothing wrong with the original coil. The motor died from a transfer cover air leak NOT an ignition failure.
 
Some folks just like self abuse... There is likely nothing wrong with the original coil. The motor died from a transfer cover air leak NOT an ignition failure.

No, the guy waiting for payday to buy an OEM coil is not the same guy and OP to this thread.
In saying that- I might not be up with the play of the piggyback poster and his saw might be trashed from the get go?
 
Looks like it’s going to work. I want to thank everyone for their input on this dilemma. I had never seen anything like it before. I ended up using the original JB Weld 8365. It’s supposed to be good for 550°F. A chainsaw should not get above 400°F. That is also the JB Weld product that JB Weld suggested when I quizzed them about it. I have ran it through a couple of cycles, heating up and cooling off. I am ready to give it back to my friend and let him give it a real work out to see if it holds up. I did get it super clean, and let the JB Weld and the saw acclimate to a nice warm temperature before putting it together. I used a large radiator clamp to squeeze it together while it was setting up. JB Weld suggested 24 hours set up time before trying it. I gave it over four times that much time before I tried it. Thanks again for all your comments.
Gary.
 
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