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I just had that happen to my 372XP. Without thinking, I cleaned the seam super well and also scored it. Then I JB welded it. That was about a couple months ago.... still holding with no leaks.
I asked for a tank here, in case it didn't hold up. Several here mentioned welding/melting the seam together with a soldering iron.
Which in my opinion is the best way. You might want to try the soldering iron first... it's worth a shot.
If you search this thread for 372XP tank made by me about 2 months ago, it should bring up the details others gave on how to do it. Good info.

Doesn't the 2100 husky have a metal tank?
 
Any one have a small mount 16 or 18Inch bar 3/8 .050 theyd like to part with i have a large mount 20 inch husqvarna bar i could trade or cash

If Arrowhead doesn't have you covered then let me know as I may have one that would work for you and could use a large mount 20".

Rick
 
I just had that happen to my 372XP. Without thinking, I cleaned the seam super well and also scored it. Then I JB welded it. That was about a couple months ago.... still holding with no leaks.
I asked for a tank here, in case it didn't hold up. Several here mentioned welding/melting the seam together with a soldering iron.
Which in my opinion is the best way. You might want to try the soldering iron first... it's worth a shot.
If you search this thread for 372XP tank made by me about 2 months ago, it should bring up the details others gave on how to do it. Good info.

Ed, I've JB'd a couple of tanks too with good results. I've also found I had more success when I would apply vacuum to the tank right after putting the JB on. I have put the cap on, blocked off the vent, and attached my vacuum pump to the gas line (w/o filter) and put 3-5 on my gauge.

Don't know if it makes a difference but it will suck the JB way up in the crack..........
 
If Arrowhead doesn't have you covered then let me know as I may have one that would work for you and could use a large mount 20".

Rick

If you want to make the trade, that's fine with me. I don't need the large mount.
I'm sending him a package next week, I figured I throw the bar in. :cheers:
 
Ed, I've JB'd a couple of tanks too with good results. I've also found I had more success when I would apply vacuum to the tank right after putting the JB on. I have put the cap on, blocked off the vent, and attached my vacuum pump to the gas line (w/o filter) and put 3-5 on my gauge.

Don't know if it makes a difference but it will suck the JB way up in the crack..........

Well, if you're talking about splitting a 2100 tank eventually and re-epoxying it, forget it. Been there, done that. I went to all the trouble to split my tank, strip off every spec of whatever crap that is from the factory and used an outdoor, gas resistant epoxy even more durable than JB Weld. Let it stay clamped into position for a week at room temp. Worked GREAT for about two months and started leaking again. I guess it depends on how hard you use the saw and whether or not it gets banged around etc. The point was, it didn't hold. I also tried a Honda sealant and some other stuff before the epoxy and they failed as well, albeit sooner.

The moral is, find a sound 2100 tank and sub it in there. Then find another to back that one up etc.:bang: They seams are failing with age, which would indicate that the Husky process is not infallible...but considering their age now, it was a decent design originally. I would hesitate to even do a spot/crack repair given the properties of the magnesium saturated with oil & gas over the yrs. I had all kinds of advice on the Husky thread on how to mend the two halves back together again-it was all erroneous for anything long term and in constant use.:msp_thumbsup:

Kevin
 
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I'm after a fuel tank for a 2100 i brought a saw off a friendly Canadian that happened to forget to tell me the tank had split up the seam and won't hold oil or fuel I have nothing to swap but happy to pay for a good tank

I have 2 tanks here. give me a bit of time to check them out before I promise anything as they were from old logging saws. I remember one being real pretty so you may get lucky. feel free to remind me tomorrow evening :cheers:
 
Im cleaning out some of the older saws i have layinging around i have :
Stihl: 028av
Husqvarna: variuos parts to 61 series saws including a few crank case . A 254 crank case. And a basket case 50. Ill update the list as i dig through all the boxes

Tell me some more about the 254 crankcase. I am interested in it. thanks.
 
Husky 288 Clutch Cover needed.

I am in desperate need of a Clutch cover that will work on my Husky 288 project.

What do you need for it?
 
Ed, I've JB'd a couple of tanks too with good results. I've also found I had more success when I would apply vacuum to the tank right after putting the JB on. I have put the cap on, blocked off the vent, and attached my vacuum pump to the gas line (w/o filter) and put 3-5 on my gauge.

Don't know if it makes a difference but it will suck the JB way up in the crack..........

Wouldn't applying vacuum suck the JB Weld out of the seam? Applying pressure would tend to force patch into a crack, right?
 
I have 2 tanks here. give me a bit of time to check them out before I promise anything as they were from old logging saws. I remember one being real pretty so you may get lucky. feel free to remind me tomorrow evening :cheers:

Whoa...I'm always interested in a good 2100 tank.:clap:

Most of my 2100 parts now are coming out of Canada....and they seem to think that stripped holes are no big deal-especially where the full wrap handle screws into the tank. They ARE a big deal if you like to use the steel inserts and have to pay for a particular size you don't normally have. I put about $30 into the last tank I bought fixing threaded holes, in addition to the purchase price of the tank itself.:dizzy:

Kevin
 
I'm after a fuel tank for a 2100 i brought a saw off a friendly Canadian that happened to forget to tell me the tank had split up the seam and won't hold oil or fuel I have nothing to swap but happy to pay for a good tank

Common problem with the aging 2100 tanks...especially in well used loggin' saws. Don't let anyone talk you into fixing the tank...it's a complete dead-end. I hope you got a great deal on the saw, or he's still laughing about it. I guarantee he knew about the leak if he was loggin' with the saw.:(

Kevin
 
Wouldn't applying vacuum suck the JB Weld out of the seam? Applying pressure would tend to force patch into a crack, right?

Vacuum is just a difference in pressure. In this case, the pressure inside the tank would be lower than atmospheric pressure outside the tank.


Vacuum to tank and apply JB to outside of tank.......

Exactly.
 
Common problem with the aging 2100 tanks...especially in well used loggin' saws. Don't let anyone talk you into fixing the tank...it's a complete dead-end. I hope you got a great deal on the saw, or he's still laughing about it. I guarantee he knew about the leak if he was loggin' with the saw.:(

Kevin

It was a good deal but I have no doubt they new it was cactus
 
I'm after a fuel tank for a 2100 i brought a saw off a friendly Canadian that happened to forget to tell me the tank had split up the seam and won't hold oil or fuel I have nothing to swap but happy to pay for a good tank

Pm Me last I checked I got three tanks that need a good home.
 
I have a chance to go cutting for a friend, this is big work we are talking cutting contracts that could span the next 5 years. I got my 372 but I want a good back up, I am not thrilled about lugging the 2100 around if something goes down on my 372.

So I am thinking saw trade, I have a running 2100 no rear top air cleaner cover and I adapted a 395 air filter too it but I got all the parts to go back original, she runs and oils as she should starts with two pulls, she ain't pretty but she is a runner.

I also got a Jonsered 80 with a brand new factory piston and cylinder in it compression is about 180 all day it has a new ignition system, new points plate and contact coil and a new high tension coil, rebuilt carb and fuel lines, this thing runs well usually fires after 2 to three pulls sweet saw.

What am I interested in well these saws aren't perfect neither one has a on/off switch usually just kill it with the Choke, I am looking for a Stihl 046, 064, 066, makita 6401 (big bore prefered) all models I will even consider basket cases that need a cylinder or even bearings and seals.

Both of these saws are nice for the right person I am no longer that person.
 
I have a chance to go cutting for a friend, this is big work we are talking cutting contracts that could span the next 5 years. I got my 372 but I want a good back up, I am not thrilled about lugging the 2100 around if something goes down on my 372.

So I am thinking saw trade, I have a running 2100 no rear top air cleaner cover and I adapted a 395 air filter too it but I got all the parts to go back original, she runs and oils as she should starts with two pulls, she ain't pretty but she is a runner.

I also got a Jonsered 80 with a brand new factory piston and cylinder in it compression is about 180 all day it has a new ignition system, new points plate and contact coil and a new high tension coil, rebuilt carb and fuel lines, this thing runs well usually fires after 2 to three pulls sweet saw.

What am I interested in well these saws aren't perfect neither one has a on/off switch usually just kill it with the Choke, I am looking for a Stihl 046, 064, 066, makita 6401 (big bore prefered) all models I will even consider basket cases that need a cylinder or even bearings and seals.

Both of these saws are nice for the right person I am no longer that person.

PM inbound!
 
It was a good deal but I have no doubt they new it was cactus

Don't feel too bad....I bought a Jonny 80 off fleabay that had "compression". The saw had been underwater somehow and when I pulled off the cylinder, the crankcase was full of water-piston, cylinder heavily scored etc. I believe this guy is even an AS member. So yeah, hard earned money spent for nothing.......:angry:

Kevin
 
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