Sycamore Tree Help - Brown Leaves

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Brian Ellenberger

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Jul 9, 2015
Messages
8
Reaction score
0
Location
Los Angeles
We are in Los Angeles and recently removed all of our grass and converted sprinklers over to a drip system
after removing the grass in the parkway and some of the small roots from the Sycamore tree - we planted dymondia and installed a drip system - its been about 2 weeks and now all the leaves on the Sycamore are turning brown and dropping - before this project all was fine and the it was beautiful - the tree is about 7 years old - could this be a water issue, shock or root issue
What should I do as I dont want to loose the tree

Help please
 
How much excavation was done, water issue how much water are you pumping is it wet all the time? How much soil removed and absorbing roots were damaged in the grass removal "pictures" ? Was fertilizer used if so what type? Many things here if not done properly could cause decline.
 
No fertilizer was used, 1 inch of dirt was excavated and the water was off for a week and now its on drippers every other day for 2 minutes
 
Ok what was used for the excavation? Are you experiencing drought? The absorbing roots are in the upper 10 inches of soil if too many are compromised the tree will decline and die. When you say the water was off for a week the tree was being watered by sprinklers until the excavation occurred then off for a week now on drip for only 2 mins right ?
 
Remember that infrequent deep soakings will encourage deeper root systems and frequent shallow soakings will encourage surface or shallow root systems. If the tree was being watered frequently shallow then excavated 1 inch over a large area damaging absorbing roots then desiccated by hot dry temps without thorough evening or morning soaking severe stress has occurred. My recommendation put organic mulch composted in the critical root zone not deeper than 2 inch and not against the bark but out to the drip-line and water thoroughly then let it dry out a spell and do it again. You could get with a certified arborist in your area and do mychorrizae treatment but the composted mulch creates a good habitat for mychorrizae and aids in compaction and beneficial nutrients etc. Lets hope enough roots survived to rebound.
 
Ok what was used for the excavation? Are you experiencing drought? The absorbing roots are in the upper 10 inches of soil if too many are compromised the tree will decline and die. When you say the water was off for a week the tree was being watered by sprinklers until the excavation occurred then off for a week now on drip for only 2 mins right ?
Yes - I have been deep watering it too - will water again tomorrow - the other older Sycamore on the other side seems fine - I think the dripper 1 gph
should I do 5 min 10min etc ??
 
Remember that infrequent deep soakings will encourage deeper root systems and frequent shallow soakings will encourage surface or shallow root systems!
Yes - I have been deep watering it too - will water again tomorrow - the other older Sycamore on the other side seems fine - I think the dripper 1 gph
should I do 5 min 10min etc ??
It should be watered to where the soil is thoroughly soaked but not running off then left to dry and repeated only when necessary. Too much water just as bad as too little bring it to field capacity when you water though! Field capacity is like when it rains and the soil finally stops soaking it up and begins to run off! You want to bring it to field capacity but any more than that is a waste.
 
In hot drought conditions trees will use hundreds of gallons of water, you want it to have sufficient water but you do not want it wet continuously as fungal problems occur then. If LA is experiencing drought and very hot temps it is going to need watered thoroughly two times a week. which is better than half watered 3 or 4 times a week!
 
Ok will check it out tomorrow - I really dont want it to die - I did with -hold money from the landscape contractor until I can be certain it will be ok
 
the first 2 are before - its the tree to the left the 3rd one is just after the planting and the last one was a couple of days ago
 

Attachments

  • duplex1.JPG
    duplex1.JPG
    2.2 MB
  • 098.JPG
    098.JPG
    2.3 MB
  • IMG_2053.JPG
    IMG_2053.JPG
    2.4 MB
  • Tree After.jpg
    Tree After.jpg
    44.6 KB
mature tree can lose hundreds of gallons of water a day through its leaves, especially in hot or windy weather. If trees don’t get enough water, they will experience stress when they can’t replace the water lost through their leaves. Signs of water stress are wilting, leaf scorch (browning of leaf edges), and even dieback of twigs and branches. The older leaves of some types of trees, such as sycamore, turn yellow and brown and then drop from the tree in response to water stress... without the appearance of the wilting or leaf scorch.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top