wvlogger
Rock trucker
oh lord another oil thread
i use stihl hp ultra works great
i use stihl hp ultra works great
synthetic 2 stroke race oil
- Thread starter Sharpie
- Start date
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retired redneck
ArboristSite Guru
Moble 1 r 2t if you can find any..
fredmc
Addicted to ArboristSite
GARY!!! Where are you?
stihl_bandit
ArboristSite Lurker
If your looking for a oil/gas mixture for a stock Stihl saw, go with the Stihl Premium oil or the Stihl Ultra Full Synthetic. You can't go wrong with either of those oils. I run this mixture in my MS260 and 090 @ 50:1 for the 260 and 40:1 in the 090. A little bit of smoke won't hurt anyone. Besides, I find my 090 runs best with this oil.
I use Amsoil Interceptor in my Stihl 07 @ 40:1. I love this stuff as it is a good quality low smoke oil.
For my 066 hotsaw, I run Torco GP-7 oil with VPR C-12 race gas at 32:1. Of all my fuel mixtures, this is the best. I'm not too familiar with Torco oil but it works like a charm with this saw.
My 2c.
I use Amsoil Interceptor in my Stihl 07 @ 40:1. I love this stuff as it is a good quality low smoke oil.
For my 066 hotsaw, I run Torco GP-7 oil with VPR C-12 race gas at 32:1. Of all my fuel mixtures, this is the best. I'm not too familiar with Torco oil but it works like a charm with this saw.
My 2c.
Huskyman4k
ArboristSite Lurker
what oil
I have always run my Husqvarna saws on Husqvarna 2 stroke oil at 50:1 and never had any problems at all. When they are stripped the inside is always very clean not that they have been stripped much but over 20 years I have never had any problems of fouling-gumming up-carbon buildup in fact they are very clean and show no signs of wear. I keep the air filter very clean (probably more than most) this does pay off.
Recently I have used Stihl oil mainly because there is a red dye in it here in the UK so it's easy to see it's been mixed, Husqvarna has a green dye.
The only time the fumes while running a saw was getting too much was on a wet day and when in their wizdom the giants BP-Shell etc brought out non-leaded petrol and this burnt my nose, after a couple of years i think they changed this.
Never tried some of the oils you mention here, they are just not available freely here in the UK.
I have always run my Husqvarna saws on Husqvarna 2 stroke oil at 50:1 and never had any problems at all. When they are stripped the inside is always very clean not that they have been stripped much but over 20 years I have never had any problems of fouling-gumming up-carbon buildup in fact they are very clean and show no signs of wear. I keep the air filter very clean (probably more than most) this does pay off.
Recently I have used Stihl oil mainly because there is a red dye in it here in the UK so it's easy to see it's been mixed, Husqvarna has a green dye.
The only time the fumes while running a saw was getting too much was on a wet day and when in their wizdom the giants BP-Shell etc brought out non-leaded petrol and this burnt my nose, after a couple of years i think they changed this.
Never tried some of the oils you mention here, they are just not available freely here in the UK.
When my Mobil One stock ran out..I went BACK to BelRay. I've used BelRay H1R for years with the motorcycles and now saws. I have a four mix Stihl...it runs fine with BelRay H1R. A great clean running synthetic that I mix 32:1 for all my two strokes, saws and motorcycles alike.
kc2strokerider
ArboristSite Lurker
I use motul 800 40-1 wit 93 same in my ktm 125 my saw runs perfictly fine with it
jambalini
ArboristSite Lurker
I've raced 125 grand prix 2 stoke bikes competitively now for years and we all only use what is recamended by the manufacture (Honda) which is a castrol A747 fully sinthetic oil. I changed once as a trial and seized the thing costing me alot of money. My reccomendation is to stick to the stihl oil. They spens a hell of a lot of money looking into what is best for their engines, for wear and performance, the same as honda, and they will have come up with the perfect product. Lubrication is a very complicated science, one to which I now very little about, so therefore I'm using manufacturer reccomendations to be safe.
While I agree with the premise the manufacturer recomendations are a very good and safe way to go, I dissagree with the premise that they typically find the best possible and recommend that, some do but...what many do is find a few acceptable solutions, work a deal to were they can relabel and sell under their own brand name. While a good solid choice, there are at times better products available. A few years ago Mobil provided the base stock to many companies that did their own spin on the concept and resold under their label. Has that changed? Probably. There are plenty of good synthetic two stroke oils out there now. Klotz, BelRay, Golden Spectro, and all those relabeled oils made by someone and sold under husqvarna. Stihl, echo, brand names.
As an aside, I wrote a letter to Bel Ray tech support asking if H1R was compatable with those 10% ethanol gas blends, here was their reply:
"Dear *****,
Thanks for writing in.
Bel-Ray H1R Synthetic 2-Stroke Racing Oil is fully compatible with the small 10% ethanol contained in gasoline. I will forward your suggestion about Hot Saws to our marketing department.
Check out our website at belray.com we have added a new feature, Bel-Ray Powersports Lubricant Advisor located under Consumer, bottom of first page, that will tell you the correct Bel-Ray lubricants for your specific (motorcycle) make and model based on the OEM recommendations.
Thanks for using Bel-Ray Performance Products
Regards,
SirTech"
As an aside, I wrote a letter to Bel Ray tech support asking if H1R was compatable with those 10% ethanol gas blends, here was their reply:
"Dear *****,
Thanks for writing in.
Bel-Ray H1R Synthetic 2-Stroke Racing Oil is fully compatible with the small 10% ethanol contained in gasoline. I will forward your suggestion about Hot Saws to our marketing department.
Check out our website at belray.com we have added a new feature, Bel-Ray Powersports Lubricant Advisor located under Consumer, bottom of first page, that will tell you the correct Bel-Ray lubricants for your specific (motorcycle) make and model based on the OEM recommendations.
Thanks for using Bel-Ray Performance Products
Regards,
SirTech"
donthraen
ArboristSite Guru
I was reading what was said about amsoil and you're rite I went threw their dealers catalog and their is nothing of a warranty lots of to does but nothing if bad happens so I gs no amsoil for me cause I want baking not promises with no baking
arborterra
ArboristSite Member
I used Amsoil in the 90s and siezed motors at 50:1 , Tried it again last year and had bad results. I can't say it was entirely the oil but the saws were not running lean. All saws I own are modded and worked very hard. Never had any problems with Castor 927 or Klotz Benol. I would think the manufacturer
recommended oils would be good for most saws.
recommended oils would be good for most saws.
tundraotto
Addicted to ArboristSite
motul 800 factory line - ran a gallon of it and dont see anything wrong - and it was an improvement (cleaner) over mobil mxt2....fantastic oils both of them!!!!
40:1
40:1
Stihlman441
Addicted to ArboristSite
Cant get Stihl Ultra over here so i use Mobil 1 Racing 2T at 40:1 and have done for years.
swillinbeer
New Member
Torco gp-7 32:1 in 390XP just to have only one gas for all toys.
retired redneck
ArboristSite Guru
TC W3 is for water cooled 2 strokes ONLY not SAWS.......
holewad
ArboristSite Lurker
Stihl does not make oil. Some other company makes it for them. I have been using redline in all my 2 strokes for 20 plus years and have never burned one down. Had a injection pump cable snap on a yamaha 440 and ran that sled hard all day at 100 to 1 and never seized it. Any good synthetic is better than conventional oil. Castrol is also one of the best. Too much amonia in amsoil. That is how they make it run clean.
SpunkMasterX
New Member
Dirt bike oils are not good enough in saws
I ran klotz in both my hi revving mod saws and smoked both saws in a month...pulled them down and found a puddle in red oil in the bottom. The klotz synthetic oil separates from the gas at hi rpm...like 16,000! Also most dirtbike oils may state they are api-tc rated but its on the low end of the spectrum. Saws have up to 500 degree cylinder temps and over 1,200 degree exhaust temps...2stroke dirt bike never see those temps and dirt bike oil will burn and cause ring sticking. Dean from hot saws suggests husqvarna low smoke or the xp at 40:1.
I ran klotz in both my hi revving mod saws and smoked both saws in a month...pulled them down and found a puddle in red oil in the bottom. The klotz synthetic oil separates from the gas at hi rpm...like 16,000! Also most dirtbike oils may state they are api-tc rated but its on the low end of the spectrum. Saws have up to 500 degree cylinder temps and over 1,200 degree exhaust temps...2stroke dirt bike never see those temps and dirt bike oil will burn and cause ring sticking. Dean from hot saws suggests husqvarna low smoke or the xp at 40:1.
wilsonishere
ArboristSite Member
A little on 2-cycle oil
The oil I use in all my saws is amsoil Saber Pro at 50:1, and I have never had any problems with it. Before I went to Amsoil I ran, Stihl, Husqvarna, Motul, Klotz, and Silkolene all synthetic, and found reasons to switch from each. First I can say that anymore, as long as you use a synthetic that is designed for saws and not water cooled applications you should be ok with light use, as long as your mix is right, but let me add, that I would stay away from any (bean) oil or vegetable bases products. My reasons for this are that the natural plant based products burn very dirty, and have a tendency not to mix well or to separate when exposed or mixed with the alcohol in today’s fuels. Amsoil makes several types of 2-cycle oils and saber pro is the best for our application, the others are in, order of best to worst for or application, Dominator (very good), Interceptor (good), Saber Outboard (not recommended), and HP Injector (not recommended). The main differences in 2-cycle oil are, the type of, or blending of, dispersants and detergents. The Three types of dispersants are ashless, low ash and ash-type. Ashless dispersants are designed for use in engines that have a median ring land temp of below 300 degrease fahrenheit, and low ash are designed for use in engines with a median ring land temp of not greater than 400 degrees fahrenheit, and ash-type are used for temps above 400 degrees fahrenheit. The typical chainsaw engine can see’s temps over 400 degrees fahrenheit at the ring land under hard use, hence the reason to stay away from water cooled oils. There are oils out that can be used for both, water cooled and air cooled engines, but they sacrifice better operability over a narrow band of temps, for a broader coverage of engine types. These oil build up in water cooled engines, and burn out faster than required in air cooled engines. Now on to detergents, First detergents burn at a higher temp than a water cooled engine can reach, so in a purely water cool designed 2-cycle oil there should be no detergents. The effects on a water cooled engine of detergents are fouled plugs, and exhaust port deposits. In an air cooled engine detergents are needed to keep the piston rings from sticking, higher heats cause different types of build ups (varnish) on the ring so something is required to clean them. I hope this help someone with their pick in oils, because like many people when I started with saws I was clueless as to oils, over the years and after many teardowns, I have seen what a bad oil can do to a piston and bore, and on the flip side what a good oil can keep like new.
The oil I use in all my saws is amsoil Saber Pro at 50:1, and I have never had any problems with it. Before I went to Amsoil I ran, Stihl, Husqvarna, Motul, Klotz, and Silkolene all synthetic, and found reasons to switch from each. First I can say that anymore, as long as you use a synthetic that is designed for saws and not water cooled applications you should be ok with light use, as long as your mix is right, but let me add, that I would stay away from any (bean) oil or vegetable bases products. My reasons for this are that the natural plant based products burn very dirty, and have a tendency not to mix well or to separate when exposed or mixed with the alcohol in today’s fuels. Amsoil makes several types of 2-cycle oils and saber pro is the best for our application, the others are in, order of best to worst for or application, Dominator (very good), Interceptor (good), Saber Outboard (not recommended), and HP Injector (not recommended). The main differences in 2-cycle oil are, the type of, or blending of, dispersants and detergents. The Three types of dispersants are ashless, low ash and ash-type. Ashless dispersants are designed for use in engines that have a median ring land temp of below 300 degrease fahrenheit, and low ash are designed for use in engines with a median ring land temp of not greater than 400 degrees fahrenheit, and ash-type are used for temps above 400 degrees fahrenheit. The typical chainsaw engine can see’s temps over 400 degrees fahrenheit at the ring land under hard use, hence the reason to stay away from water cooled oils. There are oils out that can be used for both, water cooled and air cooled engines, but they sacrifice better operability over a narrow band of temps, for a broader coverage of engine types. These oil build up in water cooled engines, and burn out faster than required in air cooled engines. Now on to detergents, First detergents burn at a higher temp than a water cooled engine can reach, so in a purely water cool designed 2-cycle oil there should be no detergents. The effects on a water cooled engine of detergents are fouled plugs, and exhaust port deposits. In an air cooled engine detergents are needed to keep the piston rings from sticking, higher heats cause different types of build ups (varnish) on the ring so something is required to clean them. I hope this help someone with their pick in oils, because like many people when I started with saws I was clueless as to oils, over the years and after many teardowns, I have seen what a bad oil can do to a piston and bore, and on the flip side what a good oil can keep like new.
I've run Bel Ray H1R for a long time in both saws and motorcycles..since it has been on the market actually in the motorcycles. To repeat something I've said for years, the reason was it did in fact burn cleaner and allowed me to run 32:1 in the race bikes without as much residue in the exhaust. Got the benefits of the extra oil in wear over time without that black goo the first synthetic products offerings left if you went much more than 40:1. I have a Stihl 4-mix with a hedge trimmer attachment that gets used here on the farm weekly during the summer..has lasted two years so far with no issues. Haven't had it apart so I don't know what the valves look like,.
One thing I really like is that nice clean looking oil film on everything in the crank cases of all the saws I've taken apart over the years after running Both the now extinct Mobil 1 MX2T and the BelRay H1R..
Piston skirt coated as well....and conversely how DRY I've seen so many saws when I pull them apart for those who I help with their saws.Stihlmech
ArboristSite Member
i have used them all, and as a STIHL mechanic, i prefer royal purple mixed 50:1. i actually use it in the shop and every machine that leaves my shop has this mixture in it, along with seafoam. in my bikes i run silkolene(sp) at 32:1 never had a problem with anything.
