three final question i think....
can someone tell me what kind of pine i have from this bark picture?
will a husky 455 rancher be good for falling and "bucking?" them
and who wants to buy my trees at what length?
tall straight pines, worth anything?
- Thread starter scooby
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three final question i think....
can someone tell me what kind of pine i have from this bark picture?
will a husky 455 rancher be good for falling and "bucking?" them
and who wants to buy my trees at what length?
Forest Steward
ArboristSite Member
Question 1: They're white pines
Question 2: Keep the saw sharp and it'll move through it alright. It's pretty
soft wood.
Question 3: I know the guy I work with isn't going to buy any logs unless he
bucks them up himself or he knows the guy doing it knows what
he is doing. Length is meaningless if you screw up the grade. I
can't speak for everyone here, but that's generally the
consensus with most guys.
Question 2: Keep the saw sharp and it'll move through it alright. It's pretty
soft wood.
Question 3: I know the guy I work with isn't going to buy any logs unless he
bucks them up himself or he knows the guy doing it knows what
he is doing. Length is meaningless if you screw up the grade. I
can't speak for everyone here, but that's generally the
consensus with most guys.
i am a fast learner. if someone tells me what to do i can do it.
i can fall a tree, i can cut it to whatever length this person wants.
dont know what grading is, but i am sure it cant be too hard.
white pine? isent that used for carving small wooden things? like decoy ducks?
can you build with it too?
hey one more thought, besides falling, bucking, and grading... what if i haul it too the mill? i can take 8 or so at a time.
i need to make the max amount of money, because i am building my house out-of-pocket. so help me out if you would. i would be happy to show the property and trees your your co-worker
i can fall a tree, i can cut it to whatever length this person wants.
dont know what grading is, but i am sure it cant be too hard.
white pine? isent that used for carving small wooden things? like decoy ducks?
can you build with it too?
hey one more thought, besides falling, bucking, and grading... what if i haul it too the mill? i can take 8 or so at a time.
i need to make the max amount of money, because i am building my house out-of-pocket. so help me out if you would. i would be happy to show the property and trees your your co-worker
clearance
Addicted to ArboristSite
Scooby, I am in B.C., but trees is trees. A decent faller will have those trees down, limbed and bucked to the proper length before you get out of bed, I do not say this to insult you at all, but it ain't that simple or easy. Just like you could tell me how to play a guitar, do you want to hear me practice or do you want to hear Jimi Hendrix? You can save yourself a whole bunch of trouble if you do as FS, RBtree and others have advised you. Let the singers sing and let the dancers dance.
i cant say i will be good, but i will get it done, the correct way.
i cant dance, but i can move my feet slowly.
i am building my house by myself. i know 10 contractors that could have my house built in 3 weeks. but i am doing it myself to save tons.
i want to do all the work myself so i can get the most for the trees.
trust me, i'm not good, or a pro, but just a smart person who can get any job done that i want to.
i cant dance, but i can move my feet slowly.
i am building my house by myself. i know 10 contractors that could have my house built in 3 weeks. but i am doing it myself to save tons.
i want to do all the work myself so i can get the most for the trees.
trust me, i'm not good, or a pro, but just a smart person who can get any job done that i want to.
Husky137
Addicted to ArboristSite
Putting an adequate dollar value on one's time can be the smartest move.
Cutting to grade isn't easy if you don't know how to read a log for defects, sweep and rot. A 10 second bucking cut in the wrong place can cost a lot of money in lost log value. Sometimes a tree is worth more cut into 8'6" sometimes 16'6". A lot depends on what the mill wants. Trucking them yourself? Sure but what do you really save. 100 trees can probably average you 3-4 16 foot logs, how many trips is that 8 logs at a time? You won't have much time to build that house.
So what do you think your time is worth?
Cutting to grade isn't easy if you don't know how to read a log for defects, sweep and rot. A 10 second bucking cut in the wrong place can cost a lot of money in lost log value. Sometimes a tree is worth more cut into 8'6" sometimes 16'6". A lot depends on what the mill wants. Trucking them yourself? Sure but what do you really save. 100 trees can probably average you 3-4 16 foot logs, how many trips is that 8 logs at a time? You won't have much time to build that house.
So what do you think your time is worth?
Forest Steward
ArboristSite Member
First of all, the reason nobody is giving you a step by step process on grading logs is because it's really not possible. Sure, there are some basic rules/concepts to go by, but each tree is an individual and needs to be looked at as such. I'm a bit far out of the way myself to check it out though. Otherwise he'd be all about it. We work a lot with pine.
"dont know what grading is, but i am sure it cant be too hard."
Heh...I know what grading is and it's still hard.
Grading isn't about how smart you are. To do it right, you need to know what the middle of the log looks like just from looking at the ends and bark. You have to know local markets and what mills want. You keep talking about maximizing your dollars by doing it yourself, but it's not going to happen. Grading is where the logger really earns his money. There is a reason us loggers are still around. We know our area of expertise. Not only that, but if you talk to any logger, he'll tell you all sorts of stories about getting ripped off by the mills. And these are guys who know about the business. Think what a mill is going to try on someone who doesn't know the ins and outs. Ooh, and by the way, with this part of the business, you have to be good for it to be done right.
As far as hauling, just have it hauled for you. Compare your 8 logs per trip to a tri-axle load of 50 or so per trip. Paying the guy to haul is going save you more money once you account for your fuel and wear and tear. Doing it yourself isn't going to be financially beneficial if you don't have the right equipment or know how.
One more overall issue with doing it yourself is how long it will take you. Right now with the weather like it is, your racing the clock. If you start cutting all these pines down and let them set there now that it's warming up, the wood is going to start staining on you from a fungal infection. Happens really quickly in pines especially. This is the worst time of the year to be logging high grade trees in this area. Any staining is going to effect it's grade/worth to the mill, and if it's bad enough, they'll just out right reject them. Just some more food for thought.
"dont know what grading is, but i am sure it cant be too hard."
Heh...I know what grading is and it's still hard.
Grading isn't about how smart you are. To do it right, you need to know what the middle of the log looks like just from looking at the ends and bark. You have to know local markets and what mills want. You keep talking about maximizing your dollars by doing it yourself, but it's not going to happen. Grading is where the logger really earns his money. There is a reason us loggers are still around. We know our area of expertise. Not only that, but if you talk to any logger, he'll tell you all sorts of stories about getting ripped off by the mills. And these are guys who know about the business. Think what a mill is going to try on someone who doesn't know the ins and outs. Ooh, and by the way, with this part of the business, you have to be good for it to be done right.
As far as hauling, just have it hauled for you. Compare your 8 logs per trip to a tri-axle load of 50 or so per trip. Paying the guy to haul is going save you more money once you account for your fuel and wear and tear. Doing it yourself isn't going to be financially beneficial if you don't have the right equipment or know how.
One more overall issue with doing it yourself is how long it will take you. Right now with the weather like it is, your racing the clock. If you start cutting all these pines down and let them set there now that it's warming up, the wood is going to start staining on you from a fungal infection. Happens really quickly in pines especially. This is the worst time of the year to be logging high grade trees in this area. Any staining is going to effect it's grade/worth to the mill, and if it's bad enough, they'll just out right reject them. Just some more food for thought.
redprospector
Addicted to ArboristSite
Scooby,
I'm sure you're a smart fellow, but I think you're over matching your self.
If you want the most out of your timber get someone who knows how to do it. You will loose more making the wrong cut's than a good cutter will cost.
Cutting to grade isn't something you can be told how to do over the internet, it's something you learn over the years.
Andy
I'm sure you're a smart fellow, but I think you're over matching your self.
If you want the most out of your timber get someone who knows how to do it. You will loose more making the wrong cut's than a good cutter will cost.
Cutting to grade isn't something you can be told how to do over the internet, it's something you learn over the years.
Andy
Joey92TT
ArboristSite Lurker
Scooby, I'd be real careful if you don't have much experience with felling trees before you go cutting the pine down. Trees of that size are dangerous. I'm feller and it's dangerous.
I doubt you'd get more than $350mbf for that wood....subtract $300 or so for trucking per 4000 bf log truck load, and you're not left with much. Pine isn't very profitable to log.
SmokinDodge
Powered by Cummins
Scooby your probably going to be the safest finding a Certified Forester (May go by other names in your area) to broker the deal for you. They will come in, mark the trees to be removed and broker the deal working on a percentage of the sale ensureing that you don't get taken. At least that's how my Forester explained it to me! :yoyo:
i was thinkking. if i cant cut them down or any of that maby i can just haul them. i am sure i can get a 36' trailer to put them on and take them whereever. i did locate one person of intrest but have to contact him still.
i am wondering what kind of price i will be paid if i only haul them.
i am wondering what kind of price i will be paid if i only haul them.
yukiginger
ArboristSite Member
Hearing?
Scooby, good on you for all the initiative and the confidence to tackle any project, but I really don't think you are listening to all the sound advice given.
MarkG
Scooby, good on you for all the initiative and the confidence to tackle any project, but I really don't think you are listening to all the sound advice given.
MarkG
skidder
ArboristSite Lurker
jack of all pro of non
hey scooby if your up to task of logging do it .you will love it our hate it ether way just another experice good luck
hey scooby if your up to task of logging do it .you will love it our hate it ether way just another experice good luck
sILlogger
Addicted to ArboristSite
first off i gotta say this, i know the position that u were at. there was a time when i didn't have skidders to work with and loaders and trailers and all that stuff. i used to do it with a 4wheeler and a trailer when i was a kid, then a tractor. and i can tell u this, pulling and hauling those logs behind a suburban will be more trouble in the end. it sounds great till u tear off a bumper, blow a trans, or scatter an axle and then your profit is gone. Ive been cutting timber for several years now and im not any good at grading(atleast not compared to someone who is GOOD). so when it comes time to sell the grade, i lay the logs out and have them mark them. and i buck them and we go from there. im not trying to divert you from doing this project, its jsut that i don't wanna see a guy get screwed over his first go around or have something go wrong and end up in the hole.
and go so you know if u due this job you may never want to do anything but log
"once you get the sawdust in your veins you never get it out"
and go so you know if u due this job you may never want to do anything but log
"once you get the sawdust in your veins you never get it out"
sILlogger
Addicted to ArboristSite
BUT if u do cut the job, heck regardless of who cuts the job, take some pics
Husky137
Addicted to ArboristSite
Good point FS. Some mills stop buying white pine all together between May and Septmeber because of blue stain and borers in stockpiled logs.
daemon2525
ArboristSite Operative
Another angle....
It looks to me like your new house is standing right there in front of you!!!
That would be cool to have them sawn into 2 x 4's and start buildin!
I'm sure there is a reason why that would not work, but I'll bet there is a lot
of nice 2x4s there.
It looks to me like your new house is standing right there in front of you!!!
That would be cool to have them sawn into 2 x 4's and start buildin!
I'm sure there is a reason why that would not work, but I'll bet there is a lot
of nice 2x4s there.
1953greg
ArboristSite Guru
scooby
"i can fall them myself, i can drag them to the road with my suburban (i think)"
short answer-----if they are HUGH (huge) you wont. and if they are small enough that you can move them you wont have any surburban left.
just for reference: a 2 ton come-a-long will pull more that your surburban wil most of the time
you asked for advice. most of us have been there done that
short answer-----yes
"i can fall them myself, i can drag them to the road with my suburban (i think)"
short answer-----if they are HUGH (huge) you wont. and if they are small enough that you can move them you wont have any surburban left.
just for reference: a 2 ton come-a-long will pull more that your surburban wil most of the time
you asked for advice. most of us have been there done that
