Tapered chainsaw bars

[weenieroaster]

Had a chance to use a friend's arborist saw that had a tapered bar on it. It's not as tapered as a carving bar, but goes down to about an inch or so at the tip. I forgot to check if there was a sprocket at the end. Many, if not most of the smalll arborist saws sold here nowadays, come with that type bar. I liked the maneuverability of the small end, it allows very tight cuts in small crotches when limbing, and very good maneuverability in general, easy to whip around. The bars are lighter too. I don't know about a downside, like loss in chainspeed, etc. or whether a very high rpm saw would tend to throw chain?

Are you guys using those type bars for treework? Are they selling those on climbing saws in your areas now? I'd like to find a narrow kerf tapered bar to put on a 242xp. I don't see them being sold anywhere on the internet.

Dennis

 

[ray benson]

Bailey's has bars with dime and quarter sized tips - pretty pricey. http://www.baileysonline.com/search.asp?SKW=KW117&catID=66

 

[SawTroll]

The nose sprocket bearings has to be a weak point in such bars, and don't try to bore-cut with one......

 

[weenieroaster]

I think those are intended as carving bars, the ones Bailey's sells.

 

[weenieroaster]

The nose sprocket bearings has to be a weak point in such bars, and don't try to bore-cut with one......

Don't know, SawTroll, those tapered bars have become pretty standard over here on many small saws intended for tree work. Ok, Bamboo, take your
shots

 

[16:1mix]

Ok, Bamboo, take your
shots

No shot from me, I used a chainsaw to cut the stalks of my giant sunflowers last fall!

Hey, ANY excuse to run a chainsaw, RIGHT?

 

[southsoundtree]

in addition to the close cutting made possible in tight spaces, I believe the intended point is that it reduces kickback. It is available from stihl in the 20-28" at least.

I don't know about the sprocket tips being less able to bore cut/ plunge cut but the reduced kickback tapered tips do lose boring ability, not that you can't do it, just not as well/easily.

 

[SawTroll]

Don't know, SawTroll, those tapered bars have become pretty standard over here on many small saws intended for tree work. Ok, Bamboo, take your
shots

Well, those tiny nose sprockets will have to turn at a lot higher rpms than the regular size ones, with a given chain speed......

 

[weenieroaster]

It's a bit hard to describe, but after using one for awhile, they definitely have their application. Kind of nice too, when working out of a bucket and you are sometimes reaching to make your cuts.....makes for good accuracy because you can see and control very well the progress of the cut. I'm not sure those even have sprockets.....would imagine so.

 

[B_Turner]

My 50 inch Cannon bars have a tip that is smaller relative to the belly than any of my other bars. At first I thought they would bore not as well, but actually they plunge really well for their size. Especially in end grain, as the tip penetrates but most of the actually cutting is on the top and bottom of the belly which is side grain noodles. Noodles as compared to endgrain dust.

 

[blsnelling]

My MS180 has a very small tip on the bar. It almost looks like a carving bar.

 

[weenieroaster]

Anyone seen a small tip to go on a Husky, say a 16 inch bar or so?

 

[Ashlee Howe]

No shot from me, I used a chainsaw to cut the stalks of my giant sunflowers last fall!

Hey, ANY excuse to run a chainsaw, RIGHT?

Hilarious