Texas Tree Monkey Man

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Are you talking about a boat snap, Blakesmaster?

I had been using a mini 'biner (keychain size) untill it snapped onto the big ring on me. Had to set another line the next day and climb up to get my first climbing line. My primary climbing line has a spliced eye and it was convenient to just clip the 'biner into it.

I started using a screw link after that. It's embarassing when you have to leave a rope hanging in a customer's tree and tell him I will come back tomorrow to get it. :mad:
 
Sorry Adkpk , It may be tough, but you should try to try to tie right-handed. Unfair maybe, but physics apply.
Jeff

No it is not hard at all. Like I said it's the matter of being aware that that is what I am doing. Sometimes using my left hand(probably because the rope laid on that side of me or something). Now when tying a bowline I will consciously use my right.

A you talking about a friction saver (webbing) or cambium saver (leather tube)?

Yes, friction saver.
 
Are you talking about a boat snap, Blakesmaster?

I had been using a mini 'biner (keychain size) untill it snapped onto the big ring on me. Had to set another line the next day and climb up to get my first climbing line. My primary climbing line has a spliced eye and it was convenient to just clip the 'biner into it.

I started using a screw link after that. It's embarassing when you have to leave a rope hanging in a customer's tree and tell him I will come back tomorrow to get it. :mad:

Boat snap it is, boss. You guys with your fancy names for things, lol. I just call it that thingy over there! I don't climb on spliced eye yet so I just sharpened the point on the snap and shoved it through the end of my climb line.
 
I don't climb on spliced eye yet so I just sharpened the point on the snap and shoved it through the end of my climb line.

What? Can we get a pic of that?

I did another climb on the monkey system yesterday. 50' stretch non stop, no problem. The Texas Tree Monkey System has proven itself to me. Built to last and really does the job, well. Easy to install and uninstall and easy to use. It's the cheapest system on the market.

This knot is called a half hitch?

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What? Can we get a pic of that?

Uh, that would involve me trying to figure out how to use a camera and computer, so sorry, but I can't. It's just another trick I picked up from Beranek. I just filed down the tip of the clip and weaseled it straight through the end of my line. Once I did it the first time I can take the snap out and put it in with relative ease. It's no spliced eye but it works.
 
Uh, that would involve me trying to figure out how to use a camera and computer, so sorry, but I can't. It's just another trick I picked up from Beranek. I just filed down the tip of the clip and weaseled it straight through the end of my line. Once I did it the first time I can take the snap out and put it in with relative ease. It's no spliced eye but it works.

Ok, I just went back and read what you are using it for. Sorry I just came on this morning and didn't bother to catch up. I thought you were using the snap for something that had weight on it. Wouldn't a figure 8 knot be easier than that?
 
What? Can we get a pic of that?

I did another climb on the monkey system yesterday. 50' stretch non stop, no problem. The Texas Tree Monkey System has proven itself to me. Built to last and really does the job, well. Easy to install and uninstall and easy to use. It's the cheapest system on the market.

This knot is called a half hitch?

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Hey guys! Can any of you tell him that is not a half-hitch!
Jeff
 
Ok. That's not a half hitch.


Technically, it is 4 of them, with alternating direction of rotation. Or perhaps more properly, two cow hitches. Also: 2 larks-head hitches.

I see it, but what is the purpose? I suspect you are anchoring the other end of the SRT access rope. It will work for that, but it might bind up a bit on you.

I would go around the trunk two times to reduce load on the final knot, then tie 2 half-hitches (rotating the same direction) It would probably be good to put a stopper knot on just to make sure.
 
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I would go around the truck two times to reduce friction, then tie 2 half-hitches (rotating the same direction) It would probably be good to put a stopper knot on just to make sure.

Yes, a tensionless anchor would be a good alternative to that. I would suggest a running bowline as a termination though.

My $.02
 
Yeah. That would work too.

I try to spread my knots out, so that I don't wear any of them out with overuse. In this case, he's got the 1/2 hitch down, so I figured I wouldn't complicate things any.

Good point.

EDIT: The additional wraps making the tensionless hitch is the most important part of your suggestion. Terminal knot shouldn' be loaded at all.
 
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It's too bad there isn't some sort of thread-combiner function built into this website. Here is another thread discussing the same problem. This guy really doesn't want his knot to fail:

http://www.arboristsite.com/showpost.php?p=1462927&postcount=9

If we were to award points for the best tie off technique, I'm afraid this would be a 9.8 or better.
 
it's too bad there isn't some sort of thread-combiner function built into this website. Here is another thread discussing the same problem. This guy really doesn't want his knot to fail:

http://www.arboristsite.com/showpost.php?p=1462927&postcount=9

if we were to award points for the best tie off technique, i'm afraid this would be a 9.8 or better.

lol...

BTW: Good call on the hald hitches. Post number 18 he implies he doesn't use the bowline very often. Nothing wrong with that, just adapt what you know.
 
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Let me get this straight, Tie off the far end with no load (with wraps), tie off the climbing rope to avoid the swaying. Do you guys leave your ascenders and foot webbing on the rope at the top of the tree? I think I would prefer to take a second rope with me to set in the croch I prefer. I don't know how high your big shot goes, but mine doesn't reach the top of some trees around here. Great post here !!! :cheers:

LT...
 
Let me get this straight, Tie off the far end with no load (with wraps), tie off the climbing rope to avoid the swaying. Do you guys leave your ascenders and foot webbing on the rope at the top of the tree? I think I would prefer to take a second rope with me to set in the croch I prefer. I don't know how high your big shot goes, but mine doesn't reach the top of some trees around here. Great post here !!! :cheers:

LT...

When I said "no load", I meant when you take enough wraps around a tree (or other object) the load on the rope is dissipated into the friction between the rope and object.

The knot at the free end around the standing part sees lo loading, it is basically there to keep the hitch from coming undone.

Here is a link showing an animated version.
 
Ok. That's not a half hitch.


Technically, it is 4 of them, with alternating direction of rotation. Or perhaps more properly, two cow hitches. Also: 2 larks-head hitches.

I see it, but what is the purpose? I suspect you are anchoring the other end of the SRT access rope. It will work for that, but it might bind up a bit on you.

I would go around the trunk two times to reduce load on the final knot, then tie 2 half-hitches (rotating the same direction) It would probably be good to put a stopper knot on just to make sure.

Ya, I was tying off the srt line. After two raps around the trunk the bark alone was holding the rope pretty well. I figured all I needed to do was anchor the rope so it wouldn't move and the tension on the bark from my weight would hold tight.

pdqdl I tried to rep you for the stoppper knot advice but...

The knot came out without a hitch;):laugh: proving the bark did the work. In other words the tension never made it down to the knot.
 
Let me get this straight, Tie off the far end with no load (with wraps), tie off the climbing rope to avoid the swaying.

I don't understand the first part of the question. Is it a question? There isn't much swaying with the TTMS.

Do you guys leave your ascenders and foot webbing on the rope at the top of the tree? I think I would prefer to take a second rope with me to set in the croch I prefer. I don't know how high your big shot goes, but mine doesn't reach the top of some trees around here. Great post here !!! :cheers:

LT...

I just stick the TTMS onto the back of the belt. If I was going to do a lot of moving around I would lower it or bring a small daypack to keep it in. But on this climb I didn't have to go far.
 
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No, the first sentance was to confirm what you guys are talking about. Thaks for the ill. Ghillie. That's what I thought. I did not know if you leave the gear in the tree or knot. I guess some like to work off the SRT. I don't think I'd like to do that. I will try it soon.

LT...
 
When I said "no load", I meant when you take enough wraps around a tree (or other object) the load on the rope is dissipated into the friction between the rope and object.

This a good post to lead into what I wanted to say after a climb I did yesterday. You can see by the pic of the knots that they didn't load. (The pic is after the climb) Now, yesterday I climbed a white pine and did no wraps. There is a hemlock at base of the tree with lower branches so I tied onto it. Thinking the lower branches would keep the rope from slipping up which it did. But I learned something. The knots tightened up pretty good. They weren't going anywhere but next time I will make the wraps. Also creeped up a bit which put a little fear into me. Although the branch kept it from slipping up further seeing that the line had moved brought to my attention that a successful tie off would be a rope which doesn't move at ALL at the part of the tie off.
 
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