the all aussie dribble thread!

[peter92]

Carlton do a chain and bar manual downloadable pdf too which is pretty informative. It's interesting though I have an old version of it explaining the progressive depth gauge height concept with a fop but also a later version saying to use a conventional depth gauge height tool, noobs and kick back caused litigation maybe?

have you got a link to that pdf Ben

 

[Bwildered]

Very nice.
Looks like an old Sportco? Hard to tell from the shadows. Perhaps a Stirling?

I have an old Aussie made Sportco 63B that I am doing up at the moment.
Great little rifle

the sportco's ive seen usually have coachwood stocks.
tanks

 

[chippy]

What is the consensus around,

about raker angle, is leave flat, rounded like stock or a down angle

My experience is the more I've filed the teeth back on the chain the less it holds its edge and the rougher it is to cut with....chatter etc..

I always round off my rakers but I believe the shorter the tooth gets the further from the raker it also gets which provides less control on cutting depth and also adds to the chatter.

Just my 2.2 cents worth Inc GST.

Edit. Probably should add that my chains are hand filed for their life so near end of life I'd be lucky to have 2 teeth the same length

 

[deye223]

My experience is the more I've filed the teeth back on the chain and the deeper i file the rakers the faster it cuts compered to a new chain

 

[2strokenut]

Very nice.
Looks like an old Sportco? Hard to tell from the shadows. Perhaps a Stirling?

I have an old Aussie made Sportco 63B that I am doing up at the moment.
Great little rifle

its a stirling p14
the only amo it seems to like is cci

 

[KiwiBro]

Some **** has to it will happen here yet.

yeap.
Liberalised into a corner, the west will need to finally decide to fight or roll over. The job being so much harder after years of PC hand wringing liberal delays.

 

[KiwiBro]

I use bobl's idea of constant raker angle. This is angle from cutter tip to raker. This means progressively greater raker depths as the cutter wears. It helps to ask what the owner is using and cutting so I can set this angle to suit. Soft wood, bucking for firewood, experienced, and powerful saw then I might flirt with 9 or 10 degrees for angry chain giggles. But generally about 6 or 7.

 

[KiwiBro]

Borrowed a ms250 the other day. It had a slight idle issue. Would idle normally for about 2secs then the rpms would jump up quite a bit and stay there until I blipped the throttle. It wouldn't dance around or hunt at idle, just always ramp up the revs after about 2 secs. Any ideas fellas?

 

[VinceGU05]

Borrowed a ms250 the other day. It had a slight idle issue. Would idle normally for about 2secs then the rpms would jump up quite a bit and stay there until I blipped the throttle. It wouldn't dance around or hunt at idle, just always ramp up the revs after about 2 secs. Any ideas fellas?

Air leak. Seals or intake boot. Could also try a carby kit firstly. Cheap and easy to do.

 

[KiwiBro]

Air leak. Seals or intake boot. Could also try a carby kit firstly. Cheap and easy to do.

Thanks. Will take a look.

 

[postrip]

Borrowed a ms250 the other day. It had a slight idle issue. Would idle normally for about 2secs then the rpms would jump up quite a bit and stay there until I blipped the throttle. It wouldn't dance around or hunt at idle, just always ramp up the revs after about 2 secs. Any ideas fellas?

Fuel hoses on the earlier models were prone to cracking.... Causing fluctuating lean mixture, check it's not perished!

 

[David (saltas)]

Not all of them do. I have seen a few fire fighting pumps that haven't not really the thing you don't want to have on one when often left unattended


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

All fire equipment that is compliant with Australian standards are not allowed to have over temperature, overload and other equipment protection features that would result in them stopping the supply of its fire fighting function. They are all supposed to run to destruction.

sent from my Android Phone

 

[David (saltas)]

BobL is a good read goes to a lot of effort, uses verniers to check chain is symmetrical. Makes a difference in milling

sent from my Android Phone

 

[460cixy]

All fire equipment that is compliant with Australian standards are not allowed to have over temperature, overload and other equipment protection features that would result in them stopping the supply of its fire fighting function. They are all supposed to run to destruction.

sent from my Android Phone

They should also have the ability to be able to wind a bit of rope around the flywheel to start them if the starter fails ie remove the starter and the dog will have a cutout to wind a starter cord on

 

[weedkilla]

It had too much oil in it. Drained at least 200 ml from it.
I'll play with carby first. Then go deeper. [emoji106]

They are just a splash oil setup. Ours are always run with as much oil as the old man can get in them, he parks them on a hill so he can get nearly an extra half a litre in them.
Ours have to run at stupid angles though, and every now and then dad gets a bit much in them and they'll blow smoke for half an hour or so.
He's only getting more set in his ways, and he won't change, but they run just fine like this, and do at least 10000 hrs.

 

[Creeker]

What is the consensus around,
about raker angle, is leave flat, rounded like stock or a down angle

Hey Jimbo, with a new chain, as it comes from the factory, the depth gauges are rounded off at the front to slide effortlessly in the cut and not rob power from the motor, I try to model a d/gauge filing to that end.

Ie..usually two swipes across the top, then one rounding the d/g off at the front, the rounding off swipe commences with the file about say at 45 deg and ends near flat at the end of the swipe.

Hint - I like to take the d/g's down first, then sharpen the cutters, the reason being that if I miss cue a little with the flat file and touch a cutter I'm not affecting the cutter as it is still to be sharpened. Just what I do, no expert

 

[chippy]

yeap.
Liberalised into a corner, the west will need to finally decide to fight or roll over. The job being so much harder after years of PC hand wringing liberal delays.

I have no doubt in the next week we will find out that troops are on the ground and the ***** from Isis are being systematically wiped out.

I wouldn't be surprised if France sends in the Foreign Legion and other nations send in their elite troops and completely eliminate these ***** once and for all.

 

[chippy]

Hey Jimbo, with a new chain, as it comes from the factory, the depth gauges are rounded off at the front to slide effortlessly in the cut and not rob power from the motor, I try to model a d/gauge filing to that end.

Ie..usually two swipes across the top, then one rounding the d/g off at the front, the rounding off swipe commences with the file about say at 45 deg and ends near flat at the end of the swipe.

Hint - I like to take the d/g's down first, then sharpen the cutters, the reason being that if I miss cue a little with the flat file and touch a cutter I'm not affecting the cutter as it is still to be sharpened. Just what I do, no expert

I just hold the cutter tooth with a finger each side so if I slip with the flat file it only goes as far as the front of my fingers....works ok.

 

[KiwiBro]

I have no doubt that having dragged too many uncontrollable/sovereign countries into this, those responsible for funding/arming/endorsing Islamic radicals will have no choice but to at least do more to show the world they can actually target the same groups they created.

But, this won't stop those same hypocritical, sociopathic, and psychotic bastids from flicking the switch on their proxies plans in sleeper cells all over Europe in particular, but also further afield. It ain't over by a long, long margin.

 

[postrip]

Hey Jimbo, with a new chain, as it comes from the factory, the depth gauges are rounded off at the front to slide effortlessly in the cut and not rob power from the motor, I try to model a d/gauge filing to that end.

Ie..usually two swipes across the top, then one rounding the d/g off at the front, the rounding off swipe commences with the file about say at 45 deg and ends near flat at the end of the swipe.

Hint - I like to take the d/g's down first, then sharpen the cutters, the reason being that if I miss cue a little with the flat file and touch a cutter I'm not affecting the cutter as it is still to be sharpened. Just what I do, no expert

I totally agree up until taking rakers down 1st.
However I understand your reasoning... Most raker gauges nowadays have the cut out on the end (not centre drop) this enables you to tilt the gauge in front of cutter to protect it.
I sharpen entire chain, then do my rakers at the end, as my gauge is a centre drop gauge I put my thumb & index finger over cutter for protection whilst rounding the raker off
Everyone does it differently!