The Correct Way To Install Bearings

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I see that nobody replied to this . Skin a cat I suppose. I replace them with a shop press. No problems so far.
I had a bad experience once with an atv knuckle, the bearing was bottomed out and I didn't notice and it cracked the knuckle when I gave it that last shot.. expensive lesson but I was pretty young.
 
I use a manual ratcheting arbor press myself. I have a Dake 5 ton and it's very handy plus it has good 'feel' as to the amount of force applied, has an adjustable handle plus I use it for broaching because I can 'feel' the broach cutting. For stuff that don't require feel, I have a hydraulic 25 ton arbor press but you have to set the depth or it will destroy what it's pushing.
 
Actually, looks like my Dake but the Dake has a ratcheting head to place the handle in a more easily reachable position. Typically me, I bought mine new as most used ones will be broken and require welding anyway. My base plate has numerous slots of different widths to allow for various sized broaches and fixtures as well. I usually use a set of parallels when setting bearings anyway.
 
I see that nobody replied to this . Skin a cat I suppose. I replace them with a shop press. No problems so far.

I'm not a small engine guy, but I am a millwright which means I pretty much install bearings for a living. While there are a few inacuracys in that info, it should do the trick. Main things I'd be carefull about are that a torch of any sort is the least desirable way to heat anything, and I've worked on plenty of sites that dont consider the Raytech type thermometers reliable enough for mounting bearings.

Using heat is going to be prefferable to using force, but if you plan out a sequence and have tools that allow you to push only on the correct race (never transfer force through the rolling members, from one race to the other) you can get away with a press or even a deadblow if your carefull.
 
we were putting a large bearing on a long shaft one time maybe 18 inch outside diameter, I had the shaft in dry ice all morning and the bearing was getting heated with an electric induction heater, it was almost lunch time and I said I think we better work through lunch and make sure this bearing is hot enough, boss spit on it and said ahhhh its hot enough put it on, I said go ahead then I am not doing that. He got it about 5 feet and it locked on the shaft, 2 feet short of the shoulder. I said to him that was an expensive lunch Boss... Shaft was worth 10k. Im a machinist, I have seen a lot of things over the years. The Navy Seals have a saying that I really like>>> Improvise, Adapt, Overcome. Sometimes you just have to use what you have around you to get the job done.
 
we were putting a large bearing on a long shaft one time maybe 18 inch outside diameter, I had the shaft in dry ice all morning and the bearing was getting heated with an electric induction heater, it was almost lunch time and I said I think we better work through lunch and make sure this bearing is hot enough, boss spit on it and said ahhhh its hot enough put it on, I said go ahead then I am not doing that. He got it about 5 feet and it locked on the shaft, I said to him that is an expensive lunch... Shaft was worth 10k. Im a machinist, I have seen a lot of things over the years. The Navy Seals have a saying that I really like>>> Improvise, Adapt, Overcome.

Yeah, I've seen small fortune in bearings get thrown in the scrap bin after failed mounting attempts. One thing that tends to throw new guys for a loop at the pulp mill where I currently work is that we use withdrawal sleeves in some places, which means the taper is oriented oposite of usual... I've watched alot of brand new bearings get partially mounted backwards by people who arent familiar with the system, then destroyed in the process of getting them back off.
 
I use Dumont broaches and I have a couple custom made (ground and hardened) ones I need to broach 1/2" square holes in one of the weldment parts I make in the shop for my patented line of motorcycle paddock stands.

In fact I cut all the parts right here on my Shop Saber CNC plasma table as well as parts for customer orders.

I have a rail crane above it to load full sheets of material on the bed, sheet steel especially gets very heavy when dealing with mill sheets of material over 3/8" thick and of course steel is very expensive today and stainless is even more.

I only cut Carpenter Technologies filmed stainless. Car-tech has a rolling mill near Philadelphia as well as a local distribution center close to me but the lead times on it are insane so I have to anticipate what I need well in advance and I have to pay for it 100% up front as well but the same applies to normal HR or CR sheet steel. At least the lead times on ordinary steel sheets is reasonable and I keep sheets in stock at all times anyway except the Stainless. The plasma table has more than paid for itself and was pretty quick ROI as well.

I can precision cut up to 1" thick plate steel with an 0.001 accuracy and using the nesting program that came with it plus their Fireshare software I can make careful use of just about every portion of a sheet. The only issue with a plasma table (even though mine has a water table underneath) is it's dirty and a royal PITA to clean out. When plasma cutting, the swarf is always gritty and dirty, but the table is running pretty much 8 hours a day, 5 days a week presently and neither myself nor my employees need to babysit it.

Once set up correctly it runs itself. All one needs to to is monitor the cutting tips on the torch and make sure the refrigerated dryer is running and that is about it and if a cutting tip needs changed, the computer on the cutting table alerts me and shuts the cutting down. Plasma cutting tips are 100% consumable.

Why I went from a Hyper Therm to the Titanium 60 amp cutter. The HF Titanium plasma cutting tips are 1/4 the cost of the Hyper Therm tips and the 60 amp Titanium cutter interfaces with the provided table software including the THC (torch Height Control) 100 %). In fact the 65 amp Titanium comes with the 11 pin interface plug on the front, standard and the Hyper Therm interface cable screws right in (Thanks Jim Colt).

I do run a MotorGuard 2 micron pass cannister filter on the inlet side of the cutter anyway as any moisture in the supplied air will cause the cutting tips to degrade quickly.
Had to save up my pennies for the table it was 37 grand, freight not included and came fully assembled on a hot shot outfit and the frieght cost was over and above the cost of the table, that was an additional 2500 bucks. Took 2 fork lifts to unload it, well one set of forks on one of my farm tractors and another borrowed hi-low from the farmer down the road, I pay for everything up front, I don't like financing anything, never have. If I don't have the money, I do without until I can.

Lets see, I own 2 Bridgeport mills, one is a Versa-Track CNC with conversational programming, 2 surface grinders, one a tool room manual grinder and one an automatic feed, 4 lathes, one is a LeBlond Servo Shift large bore machine with 3 axis DRO, one a Taiwanese gap bed quick change gearbox machine (that happens to be extremely accurate) and 2 fully restored, American made South Bend floor lathes, plus a Dake hydraulic arbor and tryout press with a 5 foot bed, 20 ton capacity, 4 welders, 2 high amperage solid wire Migs (both Hobart Iron Man) the Vulcan multi process TIG machine I just bought with a water cooler and CK flex head TIG torch and a Lincoln Ranger 8 engine drive SMAW welder with a Lincoln HF scratch start TIG setup on it, another Titanium plasma cutter, but only 45 amp for hand cutting and of course all the precision tools and surface plates for checking stuff that is machined and a coordinate measuring machine (Mititoyo) and all the inert gas bottles and my ancient Harris Calorific OA setup with large oxygen and dissolved acetylene owned bottles that I get refilled as you cannot buy the large ones today. I actually own all my gas bottles outright, Argon, 75-25 Argon Carbon Dioxide and the OA bottles of course and I have them filled and have full spares on hand all the time... and 2 very dedicated full time employees, both card carrying Tool and Die makers that I take really good care of as they need no supervision at all.

They don't fiddle with chain saws at all, not interested. It's a hobby for me same as the stuff I build for motorcycles and I have my own ,com website for that stuff.

Took me over 20 years to get to where I am today and nothing ever leaves here unless it's perfect either. In that respect I'm a horrible boss.

It's all paid for as well including the 40 x 60 climate controlled building it's all in and in reality I should add on again as it's getting a bit crowded but dealing with cancer I don't know how long I really have so I'm hesitant about that. My wife can manage the business (and does) but she don't have the knowledge or skills needed to do what I do so I guess when I finally succumb to it, the business, all the equipment as well as all the farm equipment will get liquidated and she will be very wealthy and I'll be taking the eternal sleep.

All the machine tools are well maintained (I'm anal about that aspect, everything is clean as well). Friday after lunch (that I always buy and have delivered) is tidy up the shop time and check everything to make sure it's all within tolerance, check the fluid levels and sweep the floor time. Best part is I don't even have to be there. it's the routine and has been right along.

I realize this is a long post but now everyone knows what I (we) do and what I own and that don't include the farm tractors or implements or the land or the rental homes my wife and I own outright.

I basically do what I want to, when I want to and that includes big game hunting though my cancer has put a crimp on that as of late. Amy and I don't travel much at all, about everything we need or want is right here so why travel. Been to Hawaii a couple times, to Europe a couple times (Europe really don't impress me). I have a good friend who happens to be the head engineer at the John Deere factory in Mannheim, Germany so we visit him and his family and another good friend in Switzerland who is an investment banker for Credit Suisse so we go there as well. We know people world wide actually but the Internet allows us to visit without going there.

I've had a really fulfilled life so far so dealing with what will be a fatal disease really don't bother me. I believe in Jesus Christ and I believe when it's my time and he decides, I'll be gone and I thank him for every day I'm still here on the tortured orb.

I've got to experience things and do things not everyone can do and I appreciate the fact that I could and still do when I'm able to.

Kind of my bio if you want to call it that. I've always enjoyed machinery and working with it. I'm a terrible wood worker, metal is my thing, always has been. Heck, I cannot even saw a straight cut with a table saw, I'm that bad.
 
LOL, I'm a farmer. Jack of all trades and master of none. About as close a definition of what I am as anything else. No machinist by any stretch.

I just sent a guy a photo of his TS420 completely apart, Case split , bearings off.
He said that thing goes in the dumpster. I said are you crazy. New bearings, seals, and piston and we are off to the races.
 
When you seat any bearing, the proper procedure is to apply force (whatever that is) to the outer race only, never the inner race. I always put the part with the least mas (the bearing in the freezer in the shop overnight and then seat it after I pre warm the larger mass with an O/A torch or a propane torch and I seat the bearing quickly. I do have a carboy of liquid nitrogen in the shop for other uses but I'd never use that because it would cause the bearing to become brittle and shatter easily. A deep freeze should be enough in most cases. Just make sure the bore on the part that accepts the bearing is clean and burr free. I use scotchbrite as well. The liquid nitrogen is for shrinking shafts that need to accept bearings on the outer diameters in specific locations. Nasty stuff and has to be handled very carefully. Once froze a rubber ball in it and dropped it on the floor and it shattered into a million pieces.
 
Farmers have to learn how to fix everything...
Tell me about it. The old adage 'never breaks in the barn' applies. The more complex the machine is, the better chance it breaks halfway through a field, in the evening almost at dark and farthest away from the barn or shop. My favorite is a flat tire actually.
 
Tell me about it. The old adage 'never breaks in the barn' applies. The more complex the machine is, the better chance it breaks halfway through a field, in the evening almost at dark and farthest away from the barn or shop. My favorite is a flat tire actually.
Funny story. Good friends combine caught on fire. Not a dust fire, but electrical wiring harness. So, he calls 911 and the dispatcher asked for an address. Well, he didn't have an address out in the middle of a field. So, they wouldn't dispatch the call. So, he called his wife and had her drive down the road and get an address off somebody's mail box.
 
Hot, cold, gravity, dead blow, micrometer. Had an arbor press I'd use it. I do have a torch, freezer, gravity, dead blow and micrometer.
 

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