The Descriptive Process
- Thread starter slowp
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
treeslayer2003
Addicted to ArboristSite
i could only wear um a few hours a week. on and off equipment to much.
bitzer
******** Timber Expert
You probably just need some wescos. I know i do.
bitzer
******** Timber Expert
Re-tractable corks: a dream of mine.
Skeans
Addicted to ArboristSite
I wear Wesco and they are a great boot but I've been told guys that need a boot for a bad foot go to Kulligan's in Chehalis, Wa.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
bitzer
******** Timber Expert
Same here.
bitzer
******** Timber Expert
I'm sure theres something out there for everyone. You just gotta pay. Now we just need to find a hat that fits treeslayers special head. How much does wesco charge to rebuild?
Someone get me a tig torch and some .032 aluminium, I could have one made in 2 days, custom fit tin hats... not osha approved in any way shape or form
treeslayer2003
Addicted to ArboristSite
i would love wescos..........with them retractable corks of course lol. i read they are leather lined, i bet that improves fit greatly.
Skeans
Addicted to ArboristSite
Mine haven't been rebuilt I need to take them in one day to have them rebuilt. http://www.wescoboots.com/wesco/info.asp
Kulien is nutty expensive but they are a grade or two above Wesco or Nick's is what I've been told, Maybe SlowP or someone that's had a set built by them could tell you more.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
Metals406
Granfodder Runningsaw
Cody T. paid Rediculous money for his Kulien's, and said he wouldn't do it again.
I lost one of my best employees today. He told me that he would be taking a well control job and be a world traveler. That was the job I always wanted in engineering school. We fought fires together, saved each other's bacon on multiple occasions and... ****, I hired him right out of school.
In the words Neil Peart wrote in Rush's last album... "All that you can do is wish them well."
In the words Neil Peart wrote in Rush's last album... "All that you can do is wish them well."
HuskStihl
Chairin'em for the sound
Should have told him "we are the priests of the temple of syrinx"
I told him I'd test for the echo the void his managerial skills left in my company. He said I was faithless in myself. But that's faith enough for me. Oh well, we can only go the way the wind blows on this cold and barren shore we call life. I guess I might as well rise, and put on my bravest face.
A lot of guys aren't big fans of Snakes and Arrows as an album. It's my favorite Rush record. Oh well... I also think Cygnus X-1 is their best 1970s long song. But that's just me.
passed a chip truck yesterday in Ye Ole Dumper Truck... he must have been doing 70, coupled with my top speed of around 55, add all the rust, damned neer blew the roof off the poor thing... I'll have to get creative with the welding or something, it looks ok from the outside but you can see light through the whole thing and it has an creepy dance to it now, makes one a little more seasick than normal to ride in it.
todays fun,
Topping a little cotton timber fer some friends of mine, quick cash job.
Everything is going just fine, top the tree and get ready to rappel down, move the prusik to keep it out of my beard... add the figure 8, test everything, seems good to go.
release the flip line (which freaks me the **** out everytime anyways) undo the bind on the figure 8...
And I drop like a rock... nothings slowing me down, grip the tail tighter pull nothing, all the figure 8 is doing at this point is slowing me down enough to give the illusion of not free falling.
Finally I remember the death grip on the prusik and let go... about 10 feet from terra firma...
Thankfully I always have the prusik in there just in case, or if I wan't to come to a full stop and do some work etc.
Not real sure as to what happened, only guess is that the rappel line went out and over my saddle or something, so there wasn't enough friction to work properly, it was hooked correctly, just didn't work.
Fell about 30 feet before the prusik kicked in.
Topping a little cotton timber fer some friends of mine, quick cash job.
Everything is going just fine, top the tree and get ready to rappel down, move the prusik to keep it out of my beard... add the figure 8, test everything, seems good to go.
release the flip line (which freaks me the **** out everytime anyways) undo the bind on the figure 8...
And I drop like a rock... nothings slowing me down, grip the tail tighter pull nothing, all the figure 8 is doing at this point is slowing me down enough to give the illusion of not free falling.
Finally I remember the death grip on the prusik and let go... about 10 feet from terra firma...
Thankfully I always have the prusik in there just in case, or if I wan't to come to a full stop and do some work etc.
Not real sure as to what happened, only guess is that the rappel line went out and over my saddle or something, so there wasn't enough friction to work properly, it was hooked correctly, just didn't work.
Fell about 30 feet before the prusik kicked in.
Glad you had a backup plan.
Had my own excitement today. My kids think I am old and can't do anything like run, but when a tree suddenly decided to change directions I literally made some tracks. I don't know if it was a puff of wind or what. Came right at me. What made it worse was I had two small snags hanging like pendulums coming with it. I was chasing the hinge at the time. I understand that loggers have to take an axe from time to time to cut their saw out - I wonder how many have had to take their saw to cut their axe out after the tree fell on it.
That white spot to the left is my saw. Axe is under the stem.
Two pendulums one on each side after the stem twisted as it fell.
Didn't show up well but to the left of the downed pendulum there is a good 4 feet of bare earth from where my feet dug in as I ran.
Wasn't intended as anything special at the time I shot this picture today, but when I viewed it on the computer, it reminded me of Bob's avatar a bit.
Ron
Had my own excitement today. My kids think I am old and can't do anything like run, but when a tree suddenly decided to change directions I literally made some tracks. I don't know if it was a puff of wind or what. Came right at me. What made it worse was I had two small snags hanging like pendulums coming with it. I was chasing the hinge at the time. I understand that loggers have to take an axe from time to time to cut their saw out - I wonder how many have had to take their saw to cut their axe out after the tree fell on it.
That white spot to the left is my saw. Axe is under the stem.
Two pendulums one on each side after the stem twisted as it fell.
Didn't show up well but to the left of the downed pendulum there is a good 4 feet of bare earth from where my feet dug in as I ran.
Wasn't intended as anything special at the time I shot this picture today, but when I viewed it on the computer, it reminded me of Bob's avatar a bit.
Ron
bitzer
******** Timber Expert
Jesus Matt, thank God yer ok.
Ron, you cut yer hold wood off. I've run plenty. Don't tell me yer stackin wedges like that!
Ron, you cut yer hold wood off. I've run plenty. Don't tell me yer stackin wedges like that!
Yes and no. Yes, I cut the hinge down way too much. No, I am not stacking wedges using slots.
However, these trees are so small I have to cut a slot not to bottom the wedge against the hinge. Also there is no room behind the bar.* With so many straight tall small diameter trees and thick canopy, I had been comparing 1) putting in the back cut and a wedge slot first, 2) putting in a wedge slot even with the straight face cut then beginning the back cut just above the wedge and wedging it over if it sat down on the bar and 3) putting in a slot even with the intended back cut and then thinning out the sides up to the wedge. 1st approach requires you to set your hinge with the face cut which can be a little difficult for me, and can pinch or snag your saw if the tree begins to fall while you are making the face cuts. 3rd approach was a little rough on the wedges, requires work from both sides of the tree, and may require wedging, regardless of lean, to snap any residual left along the wedge sides. 2nd approach does not require wedging unless the tree sits back and if it does then it requires you to be ready to grab the saw once the tree begins to fall while wedging. Anyway this tree was cut using the 2nd approach. The tree sat down on the saw leaving no crack for a wedge in the back cut. I whacked the slot wedge a few times and it lifted the tree enough that the back cut opened enough to stick in a wedge but I couldn't drive it far due to the saw. Whacked the slot wedge a few more times and the crack opened wide enough to get the saw going and then like an idiot I thought since the tree was moving I would help it by thinning the hinge. It was moving slowing as intended and then in an instant it changed directions 90 degrees and came after me. In hindsight, I believe I should have set a good hinge and then removed the saw and wailed on the back cut wedge and if it bottomed then try to stack beside it. Or maybe I should have taken your advice and put the back cut in first.
NM and I were fortunate today. Not so for one of the men working a splitter down at the woodlot today - severed a finger. I have not heard yet whether or not they were able to reattach it.
Ron
* Late in the day I started using a little 4" wedge but even it is too long for many of the trees that are too big for me to man handle. Once I made a good clearing in the canopy the small trees became less of a problem as I had more directional options.
However, these trees are so small I have to cut a slot not to bottom the wedge against the hinge. Also there is no room behind the bar.* With so many straight tall small diameter trees and thick canopy, I had been comparing 1) putting in the back cut and a wedge slot first, 2) putting in a wedge slot even with the straight face cut then beginning the back cut just above the wedge and wedging it over if it sat down on the bar and 3) putting in a slot even with the intended back cut and then thinning out the sides up to the wedge. 1st approach requires you to set your hinge with the face cut which can be a little difficult for me, and can pinch or snag your saw if the tree begins to fall while you are making the face cuts. 3rd approach was a little rough on the wedges, requires work from both sides of the tree, and may require wedging, regardless of lean, to snap any residual left along the wedge sides. 2nd approach does not require wedging unless the tree sits back and if it does then it requires you to be ready to grab the saw once the tree begins to fall while wedging. Anyway this tree was cut using the 2nd approach. The tree sat down on the saw leaving no crack for a wedge in the back cut. I whacked the slot wedge a few times and it lifted the tree enough that the back cut opened enough to stick in a wedge but I couldn't drive it far due to the saw. Whacked the slot wedge a few more times and the crack opened wide enough to get the saw going and then like an idiot I thought since the tree was moving I would help it by thinning the hinge. It was moving slowing as intended and then in an instant it changed directions 90 degrees and came after me. In hindsight, I believe I should have set a good hinge and then removed the saw and wailed on the back cut wedge and if it bottomed then try to stack beside it. Or maybe I should have taken your advice and put the back cut in first.
NM and I were fortunate today. Not so for one of the men working a splitter down at the woodlot today - severed a finger. I have not heard yet whether or not they were able to reattach it.
Ron
* Late in the day I started using a little 4" wedge but even it is too long for many of the trees that are too big for me to man handle. Once I made a good clearing in the canopy the small trees became less of a problem as I had more directional options.
