1270d
ArboristSite Guru
You'd definitely work up a strong sweat if you could do a set of tracks in 15 minutes. Did 4 tracks today, including shortening/tightening, in about 4 hours. That's with my dad helping.
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You'd definitely work up a strong sweat if you could do a set of tracks in 15 minutes. Did 4 tracks today, including shortening/tightening, in about 4 hours. That's with my dad helping.
Skeans
Addicted to ArboristSite
Man if I could do them in 15 minutes each I'd have a lot of days back. What tracks are guys running in the back?
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1270d
ArboristSite Guru
We just use the original eco tack grouser. With a single lug on each.
The only time I have managed 15 minutes is when they are new and kind of loose. A few times I've had to pull them to run the machine down the highway or some such. Then they go on super easy.
Skeans
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Oh ok most of us run scalps or the longer wider ones in the back and scalps in the front. I always hated pulling the tracks for the lowboy.
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1270d
ArboristSite Guru
Skeans
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A scalp is a lot more aggressive those style won't last here very long it's what most of us run in the front.
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1270d
ArboristSite Guru
They seem to last about 4000 hours on a forwarder. The rear set on my scorpion in the picture have over 18000 hours on them. Amazing how much longer they last on a harvester.
bitzer
******** Timber Expert
That makes sense to me. The guy who told me that 15 minutes is most likely not even there when it happens. That's not much different timewise then for me putting chains on.
Skeans
Addicted to ArboristSite
One thing I've noticed is you're not always having to tight them up like chains plus the traction difference is huge.
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Dispatches from the war dept...
"Loggers aren't know for they're accounting skills"
In regards to not having checks so we can pay the insurance and NAPA bills... (both of which outfits truly don't give a crap if yer a month late)
"Loggers aren't know for they're accounting skills"
In regards to not having checks so we can pay the insurance and NAPA bills... (both of which outfits truly don't give a crap if yer a month late)
My respect for you guys that do your own wrenching was recharged today. Other than a quick trip to TSC for cotter pins, I spent 14 hours straight installing a 3rd scv on my little Deere. A guy needs hands the size of a three year old with telescopic fingers to get everything in place. Still have about an hour or so of reassembly. Hope it works and without leaks.
Ron
Ron
A couple of extra elbow joints in each arm would be nice too. And maybe a couple of fingers with eyes on the end?
Partly my fault trying to skip some dismantling. Only able to skip one part - the removal of the valve body. Tractor is so full of twigs, leaves, dirt and spiders, I didn't want to take it off and thankfully didn't have to.
The control cable can only be installed with the valve body in place. Now Deere could have specified a length for the control cable but no they just furnished the final bell crank clearance (which was wrong btw). Spent a good two hours in a cycle of hit and miss installing, removing, adjusting and re-installing the control cable before I finally got the right length. But for my old ignition pliers, I would have never been able to install the cable.
Gologit, your comments in the thread on skidding about letting a load go got me to rethinking my winch plan since the clutch on a worm drive is almost impossible to disengage under load. Considering a capstan set up that I can operate from the side. Not ideal but may be fine for my firewooding. I won't actually be skidding with the tractor just pulling tops to the road. Ron
The control cable can only be installed with the valve body in place. Now Deere could have specified a length for the control cable but no they just furnished the final bell crank clearance (which was wrong btw). Spent a good two hours in a cycle of hit and miss installing, removing, adjusting and re-installing the control cable before I finally got the right length. But for my old ignition pliers, I would have never been able to install the cable.
Gologit, your comments in the thread on skidding about letting a load go got me to rethinking my winch plan since the clutch on a worm drive is almost impossible to disengage under load. Considering a capstan set up that I can operate from the side. Not ideal but may be fine for my firewooding. I won't actually be skidding with the tractor just pulling tops to the road. Ron
That sounds like a good plan. Just using it for a yarder like that will probably be alright.
The ones that get my attention are the guys who use a farm tractor with a set of tongs mounted on a j-bar or an A-frame on the 3 point . Those are very unforgiving, especially if you raise the 3 point too high.
I've never run skidder enough to have turned one over but I've had a couple of Cats on their side. One was a choker Cat, the other was a grapple. Both times it was pilot error, pure and simple.
Both times it was late in the day and I was wanting to finish up the side so we could move everything to a new landing before we went home. I kept cutting corners and bonusing logs and hi-balling and getting away with it...until I didn't. I didn't get hurt too bad and both Cats were back on the game within an hour.
I knew better than to do what I was doing but everyone who logs for a living knows how easy it is to fall into that trap.
And, having to stop everything to get the other Cat or skidder to get your Cat turned upright really slows down production. Not to mention the guff you take from the rest of the crew.
The 066 is a fun saw to run... but.
Fell one decent tree limbed and bucked aready out of gas...
Granted it was a tall, fat and somewhat limby tree but the 461 would still have enough in er to take 2 more trees...
Fell one decent tree limbed and bucked aready out of gas...
Granted it was a tall, fat and somewhat limby tree but the 461 would still have enough in er to take 2 more trees...
Skeans
Addicted to ArboristSite
Ron which style of winch is it a hydraulic or a PTO driven winch you were looking at?
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Skeans,
A small hydraulic worm drive - 8000 to 10000# 3/8" cable - similar to standard equipment on small rollbacks. Just for pulling stuff out of ravines. Bob's post about skidding winches got me to thinking about quickly dumping a load. Knowing me, I will winch a log bigger than I should and with a little side hill it will roll and flip my tractor in the process. My little tractor only weighs 4000# or so with loaded tires and weighted frontend. I was planning to thread the cable through my short boom for a little height but after thinking it through the added leverage to the log makes it even more likely to flip the tractor. With a capstan, I should be able to let go as soon as I detect a hazard. I'm not thrilled with using a rope nor the fact I have no way to lock a pull in position. If I didn't have other priorities, I would just buy a true three point hitch logging winch like our northern friends use for firewood gathering. If I had other priorities, I wouldn't need/want a winch as I wouldn't be selling my deuce to please my wife. It does a fair job of winching but it was a two man operation and difficult to maneuver and position.
As usual Bob is on the money about skidding with a tractor. I have a short boom (about 3 feet) to increase my lift range when skidding. I can easily pull a log heavier than the tractor but it only takes a log half the weigh of my tractor or less to take me sideway if that is where gravity wants the log to go. So I avoid side hills and spots with drop offs. Just making a sharp turn on flat ground with a 2000# log you can hear the stress on the little boom.
Ron
A small hydraulic worm drive - 8000 to 10000# 3/8" cable - similar to standard equipment on small rollbacks. Just for pulling stuff out of ravines. Bob's post about skidding winches got me to thinking about quickly dumping a load. Knowing me, I will winch a log bigger than I should and with a little side hill it will roll and flip my tractor in the process. My little tractor only weighs 4000# or so with loaded tires and weighted frontend. I was planning to thread the cable through my short boom for a little height but after thinking it through the added leverage to the log makes it even more likely to flip the tractor. With a capstan, I should be able to let go as soon as I detect a hazard. I'm not thrilled with using a rope nor the fact I have no way to lock a pull in position. If I didn't have other priorities, I would just buy a true three point hitch logging winch like our northern friends use for firewood gathering. If I had other priorities, I wouldn't need/want a winch as I wouldn't be selling my deuce to please my wife. It does a fair job of winching but it was a two man operation and difficult to maneuver and position.
As usual Bob is on the money about skidding with a tractor. I have a short boom (about 3 feet) to increase my lift range when skidding. I can easily pull a log heavier than the tractor but it only takes a log half the weigh of my tractor or less to take me sideway if that is where gravity wants the log to go. So I avoid side hills and spots with drop offs. Just making a sharp turn on flat ground with a 2000# log you can hear the stress on the little boom.
Ron
Skeans
Addicted to ArboristSite
A local guy bought an old JD 450 cat winch and built a back blade setup like a Farmi he used for years it wasn't fast but always worked.
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Before my little 2010 life altering vascular incident, I was building a large skid mount hydraulic winch that I could transport and power both with my tractor (was going to install an aux pump equivalent to about 30hp) and my deuce. Using the tractor, the winch was to be chained to a tree or stump. Using the deuce, it was to be attached to the rear on lift arms. I have all the basic parts except the valve and hoses but I can no longer wrangle heavy stuff and expect to live - so it sits unfinished in the basement. This set up should be considerably lighter than a dozer winch but even at that it is now too heavy for me. I couldn't carry my snatch block very far before I would exceed my restrictions.
That's a brand new hydraulic motor under the plastic. I have a new pump still in the box as well as a new spare motor for the deuce's front winch. All thanks to Uncle Sam - it's no wonder we run a national deficit.
Ron
That's a brand new hydraulic motor under the plastic. I have a new pump still in the box as well as a new spare motor for the deuce's front winch. All thanks to Uncle Sam - it's no wonder we run a national deficit.
Ron
Skeans
Addicted to ArboristSite
Ron I'd bet that winch is heavier and bigger then a small cat winch from the looks plus these are PTO driven. The Pud guys here use the rope winches and love them a few guys use them for big elk as well out here but they all say they're limited pretty quick. How steep is the ground you're looking at doing?
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