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The Moody 362 C-M

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Woah...Woah...Woah Now...! I go to work for a few hours & what happens? Y'all head to Bartertown to run the thunderdome death match w/out me! Geez Louise guys thanks alot, I feel like the fat kid @dodgeball..

Ohhhhhh Magic Mikey.. What can ya do... She put up a good fight...:(
 
Complain and debate muffler mods with proven saw builders?


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Hahahaha...true..true.. But that's why I like Mr. Mike, he ain't scared to ask & take a beat down for it..

On the contrary, there is A TON of info on here regarding how big to go with MM's. I could be wrong but I believe Ive even seen reputable names mentioning not to go beyond a certain point. The wide open thing would be news to me or I could just be taking it in the wrong context.
 
OK, Saw Builder or not, I will stand by my statement. I just got off the phone with my Brother, MechanicMatt's Dad, and he is a PE (Professional Engineer) and a damn good one. He said that I was absolutely correct on this issue.

It is also why so many threads on this site (and I've checked back several years) give a range that most saws in which most saws will improve (and each saw is somewhat different).

If the information Moody provided is accurate, he vented it more than 200%, more than any recommendation I have seen in my research. THE END!
 
OK, Saw Builder or not, I will stand by my statement. I just got off the phone with my Brother, MechanicMatt's Dad, and he is a PE (Professional Engineer) and a damn good one. He said that I was absolutely correct on this issue.

It is also why so many threads on this site (and I've checked back several years) give a range that most saws in which most saws will improve (and each saw is somewhat different).

If the information Moody provided is accurate, he vented it more than 200%, more than any recommendation I have seen in my research. THE END!
:rolleyes:


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You're ignoring what I'm trying to tell you, Mike. I'm not telling you that what he did is optimal or needed. Obviously, it is not. I'm simply telling you that I highly doubt it's hurting performance at all. You have shown nothing to prove otherwise.

Newbies get caught up in thinking that they need to measure and calculate the muffler opening. I did the same, using spaghetti. Nonsense. It's simply not necessary. Mod it as you like and run it.
 
Hahahaha...true..true.. But that's why I like Mr. Mike, he ain't scared to ask & take a beat down for it..

On the contrary, there is A TON of info on here regarding how big to go with MM's. I could be wrong but I believe Ive even seen reputable names mentioning not to go beyond a certain point. The wide open thing would be news to me or I could just be taking it in the wrong context.
Surely u husky guys arent gonna compare a ported 562 againt a partially finished 362c in rotten wood with chains that we werent sure whch is sharper??? lol!!
 
You're ignoring what I'm trying to tell you, Mike. I'm not telling you that what he did is optimal or needed. Obviously, it is not. I'm simply telling you that I highly doubt it's hurting performance at all. You have shown nothing to prove otherwise.

Newbies get caught up in thinking that they need to measure and calculate the muffler opening. I did the same, using spaghetti. Nonsense. It's simply not necessary. Mod it as you like and run it.
I agree. In my case I wanted to make sure I had at least 100% of the inlet. I myself dont believe more would hurt but neccessary?? Thanks for helping us fight to patch these 362c up to try and crawl up to the 562 level!! Lol!
 
I'm also pretty sure those racing saws will have aggressive square file chain also, which will fare better when you trade HP for Torque.
I wasn't going to, but I'll bite....

These here racing saws you speak of, the whole trading HP for Torque? Say what?
 
Ok Ill take a stab at this, original cylinder exhaust opening is .698 which I left.The existing screen holder opening is .527. The stock exhaust exit was that tiny 3/8 hole. I opened the screen holder up to.800 and the exhaust opening to.766 and the deflector up to.721. Stock vs current is at 109%View attachment 343842View attachment 343843 View attachment 343844
That's plenty open enough, although I would go ahead and take it to the back of the deflector. Not required, just what I do. I'd even re-install the spark screen, just to keep junk out.
 
You're ignoring what I'm trying to tell you, Mike. I'm not telling you that what he did is optimal or needed. Obviously, it is not. I'm simply telling you that I highly doubt it's hurting performance at all. You have shown nothing to prove otherwise.

Newbies get caught up in thinking that they need to measure and calculate the muffler opening. I did the same, using spaghetti. Nonsense. It's simply not necessary. Mod it as you like and run it.


Who are you? You don't know ****!!
 
OK, Saw Builder or not, I will stand by my statement. I just got off the phone with my Brother, MechanicMatt's Dad, and he is a PE (Professional Engineer) and a damn good one. He said that I was absolutely correct on this issue.

It is also why so many threads on this site (and I've checked back several years) give a range that most saws in which most saws will improve (and each saw is somewhat different).

If the information Moody provided is accurate, he vented it more than 200%, more than any recommendation I have seen in my research. THE END!

Your calculation is based on stock muffler outlet size, which is irrelevant. The whole 80% thing you have been reading, has been muffler outlet/ exhaust outlet. But regardless, when you have a guy in here, that has formulated an opinion based on trial and error, and you opinion is based on what you think should work... why argue?
 
I wasn't going to, but I'll bite....

These here racing saws you speak of, the whole trading HP for Torque? Say what?

I was wondering the same? ? ? ?

How does a race saw cut through a cant in mere seconds, being leaned on as hard as the racer can, throwing chips 10 ft and not have torque?
 
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