The nose sprocket on my bar seized today

[IchWarriorMkII]

I was out cutting up juniper today for some firewood, and I guess the fine dust coming off the bark finally packed in around the sprocket and jammed it up.

At first I was worried that something had seized inside the saw, because it was getting very hot after cutting some large pieces up. Im sure the E-tech muffle is not helping at all, it mangaged to set fire to a tree today...


Anyways, I pulled the bar loose, and found that the sprocket was stopped. I finally broke it loose and soaked it in bar oil to help flush out the materiel. I had greased the sprocket last night, so it wasnt starved of lubricants... Is it better to sometimes run the bar dry? I might purchase a new bar, it almost feels like the bearings in the nose are fubar'd.

Im also curious as to where I could get a standard muffler for my saw (Husky 353) to cool down my saw a bit. The fine dust hammers my air filter, and it really chokes my saw down after about a tank of gas, so Im looking into buying several filters, to clean and prep before I go cut wood. Im hoping this will keep it cutting fine until Im done... the current situation is pretty poor.

 

[computeruser]

In no particular order:

-Call Bailey's or hit up your local dealer for the muffler. Well worth the swap from everything I've seen, heard, or read.

-Consider running your sprocket dry, relying on bar oil to lubricate it instead of sticky grease. Some folks like this idea, others don't, so use your judgment. I did grease for a while but it bound up my sprocket a couple times with sand and crud (when cutting post-flood wood, not 'cause I ground my chain all the time!), so I stopped. No problems since then.

-Why are you producing fine dust instead of big chips? Lots of ripping? Or a dull chain? Or is it something unique to juniper that I should know about and I just made a fool of myself? Regardless, SawTroll will be very disappointed to hear about this - Husqvarna's air pre-filtration is supposed to be otherworldly!

-Yup, I'd just go buy a new bar. If you can get this one going again, you can throw it in the bottom of your saw box as an emergency spare.

 

[RiverRat2]

CPuter user is right!!!!

Not sure how old your bar is but you would be better served even if you got it freed up to keep it as a backup. every time it gets your moto hot you are stressing top end. A dull chain makes your saw (and you) work too hard and produces fine dust. not only does that fine dust find its way into you air filter it gets between the clutch drum amd behind it and coats the flywheel fan, and minimizes you saws cooling system It is not your friend!!!!!!!!:help:

If you get a new bar, get one you can replace the tip on,,,, and when it wears out you can chage out tips for usually half or less than half the cost of a new bar

You might want to pull the starter & bar covers and inspect/clean all those fines up before it ruins your saw

Just a thought

 

[Urbicide]

Who makes the best Husky small mount bar?

I was wondering which manufacturer makes the best bar for a small mount Husky? I am currently using a power match bar and it is just too soft. I tried to get a GB Titanium from Ben but evidently they are not offered in the small mount. Dr. freak likes Total Super bars (Tsumura). I run .050 gage 3/8ths chain 20". Total only offers it in .058 gage according to their website application guide. I am going to have to replace my bar soon so what should I buy? I am doing timber stand improvement and clearing my woodlot of a lot of old dead trees (elm and locust are the most prevalent). When I get to cut down something like a box elder that is a treat.

 

[RiverRat2]

Urbicide, what saw are you running and what size bar & Chain combo do you prefer

 

[Urbicide]

Urbicide, what saw are you running and what size bar & Chain combo do you prefer

This is for my 359. I run woodsman pro semi chisel chain, 72 links, 20", 3/8ths pitch, .050 gage.

 

[Gologit]

What I've found that works for me is not greasing the tip in any resinous wood...pine,doug fir,incense cedar etc. I grease it liberally for dry oak,madrone,almond or other hardwoods.

 

[RiverRat2]

I have a friend who has his own tree service and he swears by arbor pro bars from baileys for his small saws Small mount bars on what he calls dirty wood, rotted, or dead stuff. His rational is they are cheap enuff if he trashes them out its not that big a deal. I think he runs a rounded top or semi chisel chain as they seem to hold up better, stay sharper longer in rough service than full chisel or square top but I am not sure if they are .375 or .325 pitch.umpkin2:

Hey does that 359 run a rim sprocket????

Just looked on Baileys They have a windsor speed tip bar advertised that should work for you,
Check it out http://store.baileys-online.com/cgi-bin/baileys/791?mv_session_id=ZzJfttIC&product_sku=SVST 20 SJ50

 

[Urbicide]

:

Hey does that 359 run a rim sprocket????

Yes.

 

[ciscoguy01]

Bars

Heard today that Husky and Stihl, matter of fact, no saw mfg's actually make their own bars. Heard that Oregon makes them for husky and sticks their name on them from the factory, same for Stihl cept someone else, yada yada yada... Any truth to any of this??? Little more info out there???

 

[IchWarriorMkII]

I was making chips with the cut wood, but the dust that exists between the bark and wood itself gets kicked up in the cutting process. Thats where the dust is coming from.

I will look into a Windsor Speed tip (If I can get one for a 353) that might be beneficial when cutting in this juniper.

I've probed around Bailey's but havent found a place to order 353 mufflers/Air filters... only options for larger saws.

 

[Urbicide]

I've probed around Bailey's but havent found a place to order 353 mufflers/Air filters... only options for larger saws.

Just call them on the phone. There are literally thousands of parts they can get. To put everything in a paper catalog or on their web site would be a monumental task.

 

[RiverRat2]

Baileys again

Check this out, Bailey's is running a close out special on these solid Carlton pro champ replaceable tip titainium bars, that are actually made by GB for 30 bucks that s pretty sweet http://store.baileys-online.com/cgi-bin/baileys/5281?mv_session_id=KGmdhn25&product_sku=CPC 20 SJ58

They shoud fit Urbicides need too!!!!!:greenchainsaw:

and its 5 bucks cheaper than the windsor

 

[Lakeside53]

Heard today that Husky and Stihl, matter of fact, no saw mfg's actually make their own bars. Heard that Oregon makes them for husky and sticks their name on them from the factory, same for Stihl cept someone else, yada yada yada... Any truth to any of this??? Little more info out there???

Myths.... Stihl has the largest bar factory in the world in Germany and is about to open a second in Virgina beach.. They also use USA Steel, even in the German plant.

 

[ciscoguy01]

umm

Myths.... Stihl has the largest bar factory in the world in Germany and is about to open a second in Virgina beach.. They also use USA Steel, even in the German plant.

Now that I think about it, I think he mighta said that stihl is the last one making their own. Can't quite remember.

 

[Lakeside53]

That rumor I have heard!

 

[SRT-Tech]

I was out cutting up juniper today for some firewood, and I guess the fine dust coming off the bark finally packed in around the sprocket and jammed it up.

At first I was worried that something had seized inside the saw, because it was getting very hot after cutting some large pieces up. Im sure the E-tech muffle is not helping at all, it mangaged to set fire to a tree today...


Anyways, I pulled the bar loose, and found that the sprocket was stopped. I finally broke it loose and soaked it in bar oil to help flush out the materiel. I had greased the sprocket last night, so it wasnt starved of lubricants... Is it better to sometimes run the bar dry? I might purchase a new bar, it almost feels like the bearings in the nose are fubar'd.

Im also curious as to where I could get a standard muffler for my saw (Husky 353) to cool down my saw a bit. The fine dust hammers my air filter, and it really chokes my saw down after about a tank of gas, so Im looking into buying several filters, to clean and prep before I go cut wood. Im hoping this will keep it cutting fine until Im done... the current situation is pretty poor.

try cleaning the sprocket noe with a can of compressed carb cleaner. Then regrease with SYNTHETIC grease, it has a much higher temp handling ability.

 

[sawinredneck]

Cisco: the Husky bars are ussually rebadged Oregon bars. The Stihl ES is IMHO the BEST bar you can buy!
Andy

 

[Freakingstang]

Welp, you already know my preference. I run three total super bars and the rest Stihl ES on the larger saws. BTW, Total makes them in 050, but 058 seems to be more common.

I have not ran any of the small husky mount Total bars, but I am going to get one here soon. I will check with my dealer to see if they are available in the small mount with 3/8 and 050.

I run a GB protop on my 5100 currently. It is a great bar, but weighs a ton.


I like the windsors for the nicer tips, but the newer windsors are made at the same plant in canada that the oregons are. The older Winsors and Sanvicks were made in the USA and were much harder and a better bar IMO.

 

[blis]

stop greasing the nose sprocket and you can say good bye to nose sprocket problems...