The nose sprocket on my bar seized today

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What I do...

Something i do is about every week or two I clean out the grooves on my bars. I also get as much out of the little area where the spindle is on the tip. After doing this I drop the tip of the saw in a bucket with bar oil for a few minutes then wipe her down really well. I then run the for a bit to make sure it sinks in really well. Since I started coming to this site I've started doing alot of preventative maint. that I didn't used to do. Been cutting steady for bout 4 yrs now, and I mean steady. Like 6-7months out of the year I'm cutting now, if I have my way and the weather holds out, I'll be cutting more like 9 or 10 months. On a different topic the little MS210 I bought for the wife today, and I hate to say it, but I think I'm finished with the whole husky lower line models, they really are just a cheap line that should be sold in lowes. Anyhoot, when I bought that new saw, the dudes went nuts when I told them I was going to run that new little saw at 40:1. I mean they went ape????e. What's up with that? They said I was going to foul plugs, plug the screen, do all kinds of bad stuff to it. I run my 044 at 40:1 and my older stihls at between 32 and 40:1 and have never had a single iota of a problem. So am I going to run into a problem doing this with a brand new saw???
 
My 660 "had" a 28 inch bar on it with the non greasable tip. Hated it! Saw put out plenty of oil but the tip spun like it was pinched.(it wasn't) After 6 sharpenings of the chain the adjuster was at its limit. Put a 24 inch Windsor speedtip (greasable) from Bailey's, have sharpened the chain 4 times, and still have 3/4 of the adjuster left to go. No problems at all. I will not buy another Stihl bar.
 
jack-the-ripper said:
My 660 "had" a 28 inch bar on it with the non greasable tip. Hated it! Saw put out plenty of oil but the tip spun like it was pinched.(it wasn't) After 6 sharpenings of the chain the adjuster was at its limit. Put a 24 inch Windsor speedtip (greasable) from Bailey's, have sharpened the chain 4 times, and still have 3/4 of the adjuster left to go. No problems at all. I will not buy another Stihl bar.

I don't have a ton of Stihl bars, but I find them to be of slightly better quality than the powermatches. I have a couple dozen maybe of the Oregons, and no real problems, simply feel the metal, machining and sprocket noses are slightly better on the Stihls I have. All my Stihl sproket noses spin a little more freely than my Oregon noses. But the Oregons are such a good deal that that is what I usually buy.

I am very impressed with my Canon (and Woodsman pro labeled) bars in everyway, and even with the high price I used to buy those some. But anymore I just don't want the extra weight. I also have an Oregon reduced weight 32inch, but personally find it a bit whippy to use much. A lb lighter, though.

Just thought of one disadvantage I've found with the Canon bars besides weight. They are hardened to a higher Rc than other bars I have -- files don't work as well on them because of it.
 
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Total super bars

Freakingstang said:
I have not ran any of the small husky mount Total bars, but I am going to get one here soon. I will check with my dealer to see if they are available in the small mount with 3/8 and 050.
Hey Dr. Freak. I was wondering if you made it to your dealer yet.
 
bwalker said:
I believe the reason Stihl bars dont have a oil hole is because they are sealed with grease from the factory. I seem to remember a dealer telling me this.

They are just greased at the facory, but not really sealed. I have replacement sprocket wheel assemblies that we pre-grease before repair (rare), but the bar oil is the only lube they really get.
 
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