The nose sprocket on my bar seized today

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:hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:

fits nicely in my wedge pouch on my belt. :cheers:

i dunno, i always looked at wood cutting as enjoyable. I like to take a few minutes break while refueling and quickly sharpen the chain, grease the nose, and brush the airfilter clean, meybe eat an apple. I'm not in such a rush that i have to cut cut cut cut cut cut and not maintain my saw.

great thread.
 
Freakingstang said:
I like to call that my sack, and not much gets put in it..... :laugh:


Yep, and given a little time, not much will be taken out either:hmm3grin2orange:
 
Hmmmm

My bro makes my manboobs sore sometimes, lmfao... :biggrinbounce2:
 
SRT-Tech said:
stop greasing the nose sprocket? I fail to see how LACK OF LUBRICATION on a high speed moving part, that is sandwiched tightly between two metal sheets, will improve the situation.........

as for the sprocket getting lubed with bar oil........take a look at how the oil is flung off a chain: OUTWARDS! .....Bar oil will not fling or centrifuge INWARDS!!!!! the bar oil flings OUTWARDS, well away from the sprocket core, where the lubrication is required the most. The ONLY way bar oil will lubricate the sprocket (and it is poor lubrication at best) is when any residual oil on the chain seeps downwards while the saw is at rest. The moment the saw is used, that oil is GONE.

If you simply grease the sprocket every time you refuel (takes 3 seconds, a tub of wheel bearing grease is CHEAP) it will PURGE out any dust or grit build up. three pumps per hole, until fresh grease pushes out the chain, pushes out ANY contamination.

come on people, this is so simple.


:deadhorse:

That may be, SRT, but I've not greased a bar tip in 20 years or more. And rarely have problems.....
 
grease

I have never greased a sprocket tip either. The chain will carry oil all the way around the bar. I have bows for my 044 and my PM700, and the chain will carry oil all the way around them.
 
RaisedByWolves said:
Your asking this of a guy with an empty sak?


Hey, easy there RBW. I never said it was empty, trust me the g/f always gripes it is too full. LOL.


I haven't left a neg in a while....


:hmm3grin2orange:
 
Greasing bars

One thing I'll say, I always turn up the oiler on ALL my saws. Reason for this is because of tips seazing up. The bars on my 041's and 020 are over 30yrs old and still work like a champ. I think it's because you need to get extra oil to the tip on the rollers. A little extra oil is good, not too much more expensive, and cheaper than replacing bars. Just my .02:D
 
grease vs oil

I've not had a seized tip. Have had dust and soot jam up the tip.
Haven't greased a tip for several years.

It is not that Stihl is saying no lubrication is necessary.
Stihl is saying bar oil is more than enough.

Make sure on whatever saw you're running, that you have a functioning oiler, turned up to a high flow rate, and that you're not running out of oil before gas.

I would suggest that for any well cleaned bar (air hosed) or new bar, pour a little bar oil between the rails and on the tip before replacing the bar and chain.
 
Good post
Preventive maintance on your bar is as important as preventive maintance on your chainsaw.
 
bwalker said:
I believe the reason Stihl bars dont have a oil hole is because they are sealed with grease from the factory. I seem to remember a dealer telling me this.
Thanks Ben I herd the same thing too.
That brings me to thinking Greaseable bearing and nongreaseable bearings
 

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