The nose sprocket on my bar seized today

[vapnut257]

I just bought two new bar and chain combos (20" 3/8, .50) for my 359 last week for 19.95 each. (shipping was $9 for both). When the bars arrived, the Husqvarna "Farm Boss" logo was "shadowed". I think thats why they were sold on special. I ran them yesterday and they worked great otherwise.
On a side note: I apologize for any inconvienience I caused any other member of this forum by posting a link to a unsponsored site. I was so excited when the bars arrived in two days, I came here and posted the link to the site to share with everybody. I served my time (no parole) and am glad to be back here with ya'll. I'll promise to be more careful in the future as I think this is a great site! VaPnut.

 

[smokechase II]

stop greasing

Stopping greasing will not cure your nose problems.
I've run the Stihl bars that have no nose grease holes for a few years and cut a lot of rotten wood.
I have plenty of problems with bark dust and very rotten wood jamming the tip. Some problems with pitchy wood doing the same.

Interestingly, I don't recall this level of problem before when I greased.

 

[johnb]

Bar oil

Bar oil that post and discussion goes on for ever. thick and sticky verses wd-40 (ha Ha). Seriously, look at a good bar I perfer Windsor or Oregon. Grease on hardwoods and just bar oil on others. Keep the chain flipping chips no saw dust, its hard on the saw and the bar (excessive heat). As far as bar oil well I perfer good grade motor oil. I do a lot of milling and during sustained long cuts you need oil that is designed for high heat applications. Others will say use sticky bar oil. but this is my opinion. Good luck happy sawing The Hoosier!!

 

[blis]

Stopping greasing will not cure your nose problems.
I've run the Stihl bars that have no nose grease holes for a few years and cut a lot of rotten wood.
I have plenty of problems with bark dust and very rotten wood jamming the tip. Some problems with pitchy wood doing the same.

Interestingly, I don't recall this level of problem before when I greased.

my dad and uncle (who worked as lumberjack ~15 years) both stopped greasing about 15 years ago and since then neither of them has got no nose sprocket breakages/problems...

might be thou that we cut only pine, spruce and birch over here...

 

[SWE#Kipp]

Husqvarna got bar plant in Norway,, but i think they are only offered in Sweden, Finland, Norway and maybe some other European countries

 

[scottr]

Flush

I was out cutting up juniper today for some firewood, and I guess the fine dust coming off the bark finally packed in around the sprocket and jammed it up.

At first I was worried that something had seized inside the saw, because it was getting very hot after cutting some large pieces up. Im sure the E-tech muffle is not helping at all, it mangaged to set fire to a tree today...


Anyways, I pulled the bar loose, and found that the sprocket was stopped. I finally broke it loose and soaked it in bar oil to help flush out the materiel. I had greased the sprocket last night, so it wasnt starved of lubricants... Is it better to sometimes run the bar dry? I might purchase a new bar, it almost feels like the bearings in the nose are fubar'd.

Im also curious as to where I could get a standard muffler for my saw (Husky 353) to cool down my saw a bit. The fine dust hammers my air filter, and it really chokes my saw down after about a tank of gas, so Im looking into buying several filters, to clean and prep before I go cut wood. Im hoping this will keep it cutting fine until Im done... the current situation is pretty poor.

IWM , twice I've bound up a sprocket tip and both times I was cutting wood that was partially rotten and wet bark . I used mix to wash out the sprocket tip . I can't imagine using bar oil to to rinse out a sprocket tip .

 

[GASoline71]

If you order an Oregon Powermatch bar from Bailey's for a Husqvarna, it will come in a Huaqvarna box, painted as factory Husqvarna.

Gary

 

[sawinredneck]

Husqvarna got bar plant in Norway,, but i think they are only offered in Sweden, Finland, Norway and maybe some other European countries

I hope they are better than the junk ones we get in the states!!
Andy

 

[SRT-Tech]

stop greasing the nose sprocket? I fail to see how LACK OF LUBRICATION on a high speed moving part, that is sandwiched tightly between two metal sheets, will improve the situation.........

as for the sprocket getting lubed with bar oil........take a look at how the oil is flung off a chain: OUTWARDS! .....Bar oil will not fling or centrifuge INWARDS!!!!! the bar oil flings OUTWARDS, well away from the sprocket core, where the lubrication is required the most. The ONLY way bar oil will lubricate the sprocket (and it is poor lubrication at best) is when any residual oil on the chain seeps downwards while the saw is at rest. The moment the saw is used, that oil is GONE.

If you simply grease the sprocket every time you refuel (takes 3 seconds, a tub of wheel bearing grease is CHEAP) it will PURGE out any dust or grit build up. three pumps per hole, until fresh grease pushes out the chain, pushes out ANY contamination.

come on people, this is so simple.

:deadhorse:

 

[manual]

Myths.... Stihl has the largest bar factory in the world in Germany and is about to open a second in Virgina beach.. They also use USA Steel, even in the German plant.

AS factoid: Lakeside has the most post going for breaking myths about Stihl.
Now back to you program.

 

[blis]

stop greasing the nose sprocket? I fail to see how LACK OF LUBRICATION on a high speed moving part, that is sandwiched tightly between two metal sheets, will improve the situation.........

as for the sprocket getting lubed with bar oil........take a look at how the oil is flung off a chain: OUTWARDS! .....Bar oil will not fling or centrifuge INWARDS!!!!! the bar oil flings OUTWARDS, well away from the sprocket core, where the lubrication is required the most. The ONLY way bar oil will lubricate the sprocket (and it is poor lubrication at best) is when any residual oil on the chain seeps downwards while the saw is at rest. The moment the saw is used, that oil is GONE.

If you simply grease the sprocket every time you refuel (takes 3 seconds, a tub of wheel bearing grease is CHEAP) it will PURGE out any dust or grit build up. three pumps per hole, until fresh grease pushes out the chain, pushes out ANY contamination.

come on people, this is so simple.

:deadhorse:

aww.. cmon, if you grease it every time you refill it makes all dirt and ???? stick on nose sprocket, which leads to alot faster wear out... Havent had a single broken nose sprocket and i've never greased it...

 

[manual]

Welp, you already know my preference. I run three total super bars and the rest Stihl ES on the larger saws. BTW, Total makes them in 050, but 058 seems to be more common.

I have not ran any of the small husky mount Total bars, but I am going to get one here soon. I will check with my dealer to see if they are available in the small mount with 3/8 and 050.

I run a GB protop on my 5100 currently. It is a great bar, but weighs a ton.


I like the windsors for the nicer tips, but the newer windsors are made at the same plant in canada that the oregons are. The older Winsors and Sanvicks were made in the USA and were much harder and a better bar IMO.

Ok you got me. I agree with you.
The reason the .058 seems to be more common is because most stihl owners stay with Stihl. Stihl most common is the .050.

Try running your saw without greese. the greese seems to build a dam around the bearings. Or greese your bearings every time you add Gas.

 

[SWE#Kipp]

I hope they are better than the junk ones we get in the states!!
Andy

I take it you don't like the oregon bars ??

 

[SRT-Tech]

aww.. cmon, if you grease it every time you refill it makes all dirt and ???? stick on nose sprocket, which leads to alot faster wear out... Havent had a single broken nose sprocket and i've never greased it...

I disagree BLIS.

i go thru about 6 - 20 tanks of fuel a day, grease the tip every time and sometimes in between, ZERO gunk, dust, dirt, crud in the sprocket. Just fresh pale yellow clear grease.

crud cannot get into the sprocket, because as the sprocket spins, it flings out minute amounts of grease, in effect "self purging" and preventing grit , sawdust and crud from entering and binding up the sprocket.

I use my saw for firewood, ripping hardwood, and some plunge cuts.

me thinks the sprocket that siezed (not sure who), the tip was bent slightly and that binds up the sprocket, and siezed.

and if your getting dirt and crud on the sprocket tip, QUIT resting the bar tip on dirty ground, cuz thats the only way dirt is going to stick. Even with sawdust flying as i cut there is nothing sticking to the tip.

 

[Freakingstang]

I take it you don't like the oregon bars ??

HA HA HA. Thanks I needed that. Haven't laughed that hard in a long time.

They wear funny if you look at them wrong.

 

[manual]

aww.. cmon, if you grease it every time you refill it makes all dirt and ???? stick on nose sprocket, which leads to alot faster wear out... Havent had a single broken nose sprocket and i've never greased it...

If you think about it. the new greese pushes the old greese to the chain along with the saw dust.
BTW I don't use greese . But some do.

 

[sawinredneck]

I take it you don't like the oregon bars ??

HA HA HA. Thanks I needed that. Haven't laughed that hard in a long time.

They wear funny if you look at them wrong.

Yep!!!! No, I am not a big fan at all!!!! I really wish Stihl made ES bars that would fit Huskies!!!! Until then I will run my GB's, still waiting for them to come out with the TI bars for the small mounts (I hear they are comming!!):hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:
Andy

 

[SRT-Tech]

If you think about it. the new greese pushes the old greese to the chain along with the saw dust..

bingobango! and it is flung off with the bar oil as the chain spins, so where is the dirt going to stick, unless your jamming the tip into dirt.

 

[smokechase II]

Nature of the cut

blis:

I cut mostly pine.

Throwing chips is not a problem when cutting green or recently dead wood and the bar tip thing has never been a problem there for me either.

I can tell that those posting with "throw some chips/sharpen yer saw" comments don't have to cut much in the way of rotten wood.

The forests in the Western US are not well groomed. Most would be astounded at the amount of dead and dying trees we have. When you put in fireline or take on a fuels project that was not preceded by some reasonable logging show you have to cut everything out there. If it is smaller diameter dead, (under 10") I just power through it and the bar tip thing doesn't rear its ugly head. It is most common for me when a 28" or 32" bar is being fully used in a stem where the wood has a pitchy component to it and its bark dusty. I have it happen also in just excessive dust - fine conditions.
Simply put, one cannot cut dust and throw chips. I sneeze a lot too when involved in this stuff.
Waaahhhh.

My only solution so far is to realize what is about to happen and take the saw out of the cut and rev it somewhat to clean the bar. Then float it back in and feel for bogging down and remove it before it clogs up. Repeat step 1.
Additionally if there is any possibilty of the bar being pinched, setting up the insurance wedge a little bit aggressively helps.

I run a 440 an 064 with full skip or ocassionally semi-skip. Power is not an issue otherwise. Just in clogging conditions. A year ago I clogged one so bad that I had to take the bar off and brace the bar and pull on the sprocket tip with the side of the scrench.

I'm wondering if I can recall this problem before Stihl went to a smaller bar tip.

This picture has nothing to do with the above comments or thread.
Just thought I'd try to open up some new ground on this site by changing thread direction .....within a post. A new low.

 

[scottr]

stop greasing the nose sprocket? I fail to see how LACK OF LUBRICATION on a high speed moving part, that is sandwiched tightly between two metal sheets, will improve the situation.........

as for the sprocket getting lubed with bar oil........take a look at how the oil is flung off a chain: OUTWARDS! .....Bar oil will not fling or centrifuge INWARDS!!!!! the bar oil flings OUTWARDS, well away from the sprocket core, where the lubrication is required the most. The ONLY way bar oil will lubricate the sprocket (and it is poor lubrication at best) is when any residual oil on the chain seeps downwards while the saw is at rest. The moment the saw is used, that oil is GONE.

If you simply grease the sprocket every time you refuel (takes 3 seconds, a tub of wheel bearing grease is CHEAP) it will PURGE out any dust or grit build up. three pumps per hole, until fresh grease pushes out the chain, pushes out ANY contamination.

come on people, this is so simple.

:deadhorse:

SRT-Tech , a thin film of oil will lubricate the roller bearings well . Not all the oil is flung away from the rollers .