The Traveling Leveraxe/Leveraxe 2 Thread

[Ambull01]

If you do choose to give it a try, it's headed to southern upstate NY next and could pass it on to you from there.

Okay I'll let you know. Pretty satisfied with my Fiskars so far though.

 

[svk]

Okay I'll let you know. Pretty satisfied with my Fiskars so far though.

It's definitely not a replacement for a Fiskars just something unique to try.

 

[zogger]

No experience with gum here.

Zog, what's worse to split? Gum or elm?

Most elm is a touch worse, but it burns better (around here now what I get). Some species of elm I have read here are not that bad, but I obviously have never dealt with those. I did a lot during the big elm dieoff in the 70s, there was free elm scrounge all over heck, sort of like the ash dieoff today, but I had to *work* for every stick.

 

[zogger]

Damn, too bad. I want to fill my yard up with drying firewood. Thought it would be great to borrow a tool to split all the sweetgum.

Anyway, happy Thanksgiving buddy. Hope you had enough to eat.

Back at ya man. Yeppers, got stuffed, gobbler, string beans, stuffing, sweet taters then punkin pie with whipped cream and walnuts.

You can get the sweetgum, let it sit until the bark is loose and falling off, then follow the cracks with the fiskars. Or noodle it in quarters now, let it sit that way until the bark is loose, then bust it, loads easier. I'd put it in the middle someplace between like tulip poplar and oak for burning, good enough to scrounge. I take some here because I take the dead stuff around the field edges mostly, so I can't be choosy. Anything dead or close to it that is gonna keep dropping branches or the whole tree where I have to work, that's what goes in my stack(mostly, sometimes I take a few selected ones from in the woods, usually red oaks). Ash to Willow, and anything in between, in the stacks.

hmm, don't recall the BTUs on sweetgum, let me check...about 18 million BTU per cord, so I was guessing close. Oaks are 20 something and up depending on the species, so closer to oak than tulip poplar.

I like all my wood, been burning mostly pine and poplar splits today, about ready to throw some hard wood uglies on then a big knot of ..something..for a night log. It's heavy, should work....

 

[zogger]

It's definitely not a replacement for a Fiskars just something unique to try.

Ya, it was fun! Never seen an axe even close to that design. I think it needs sharpening though, and a touch of the teflon spray, but I didn't do that when it was here, wanted to leave it stock.

 

[Ambull01]

Back at ya man. Yeppers, got stuffed, gobbler, string beans, stuffing, sweet taters then punkin pie with whipped cream and walnuts.

You can get the sweetgum, let it sit until the bark is loose and falling off, then follow the cracks with the fiskars. Or noodle it in quarters now, let it sit that way until the bark is loose, then bust it, loads easier. I'd put it in the middle someplace between like tulip poplar and oak for burning, good enough to scrounge. I take some here because I take the dead stuff around the field edges mostly, so I can't be choosy. Anything dead or close to it that is gonna keep dropping branches or the whole tree where I have to work, that's what goes in my stack(mostly, sometimes I take a few selected ones from in the woods, usually red oaks). Ash to Willow, and anything in between, in the stacks.

hmm, don't recall the BTUs on sweetgum, let me check...about 18 million BTU per cord, so I was guessing close. Oaks are 20 something and up depending on the species, so closer to oak than tulip poplar.

I like all my wood, been burning mostly pine and poplar splits today, about ready to throw some hard wood uglies on then a big knot of ..something..for a night log. It's heavy, should work....

Oh man, that's what I should have added. I made a pumpkin cheesecake and took it to the in-laws. Walnuts would have been a great addition. Yup, a Marine dude that bakes lol.

I'll get the sweetgum after I raid all the other rounds. If it's still there, I'll take that too. I'm kind of interested in this contraption. Trying to find ways to sucker my wife into helping me split.

 

[svk]

Oh man, that's what I should have added. I made a pumpkin cheesecake and took it to the in-laws. Walnuts would have been a great addition. Yup, a Marine dude that bakes lol.

I'll get the sweetgum after I raid all the other rounds. If it's still there, I'll take that too. I'm kind of interested in this contraption. Trying to find ways to sucker my wife into helping me split.

Cut the poplar short and let her make kindling with the leveraxe....

 

[svk]

Oh man, that's what I should have added. I made a pumpkin cheesecake and took it to the in-laws. Walnuts would have been a great addition. Yup, a Marine dude that bakes lol.

I'll get the sweetgum after I raid all the other rounds. If it's still there, I'll take that too. I'm kind of interested in this contraption. Trying to find ways to sucker my wife into helping me split.

Cut the poplar short and let her make kindling with the leveraxe....

 

[MechanicMatt]

If there was one wood that leveraxe would shine in it would be 16 inch poplar. Couple years ago ran out of wood, ran over to my buddies farm and bucked up a giant poplar that the wind had dropped two years earlier, couldn't believe how easy it split, luckily it was march so the light wood did ok in the stove.

 

[Philbert]

Here's mine.

Working hard in the first video!!! I would have used wedges on that round, or worked in from the edges, like the other video with the Leveraxe.

Philbert

 

[zogger]

Here's mine. http://youtubedoubler.com/?video1=h...=channel&list=UL&start2&authorName=meahwahwah

Well..the first video the guy admits it is only his second day ever splitting. He is using way too high of a stump and trying to bust down the middle, not an effective use of a fiskars. I would think any of thye guys here who hand split could have knocked out that round in one tenth the time with much less effort, using either a fiskars or his maul.

Second video you did good, lower stump, plus, that is the original and obviously better built and heavier leveraxe, plus, an experienced guy swinging it, working the edges-in, with good robust swings. I wish the original model was the one that got shipped around.

 

[Philbert]

Second video you did good, lower stump, plus, that is the original and obviously better built and heavier leveraxe, plus, an experienced guy swinging it, working the edges-in, with good robust swings.

And, it looks like a shorter length/height round. Same wood?

Philbert

 

[zogger]

And, it looks like a shorter length/height round. Same wood?

Philbert

I don't think so. Second vid he said it was elm, but I don't know what kind of elm and never saw the splits pulled out to see how stringy it was.

 

[Philbert]

Funny. I went back and scanned through the 'old' Leveraxe thread:

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/leveraxe.46925/

Comments and concerns seem simar with that model.

The trail seems to end with member 'RDA' (last seen September, 2011), asking 'where do I send it?' This was after it was 'retrieved' from another member.

Maybe the mods can provide his contact info to one of the OPs of these threads to track down the original model, etc.

Philbert

 

[svk]

Funny. I went back and scanned through the 'old' Leveraxe thread:

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/leveraxe.46925/

Comments and concerns seem simar with that model.

The trail seems to end with member 'RDA' (last seen September, 2011), asking 'where do I send it?' This was after it was 'retrieved' from another member.

Maybe the mods can provide his contact info to one of the OPs of these threads to track down the original model, etc.

Philbert

He's not actually on the member list and longer. Not sure if any data exists. I tried to research this a few months back with no luck.

 

[zogger]

Funny. I went back and scanned through the 'old' Leveraxe thread:

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/leveraxe.46925/

Comments and concerns seem simar with that model.

The trail seems to end with member 'RDA' (last seen September, 2011), asking 'where do I send it?' This was after it was 'retrieved' from another member.

Maybe the mods can provide his contact info to one of the OPs of these threads to track down the original model, etc.

Philbert

Basically designed and intended for 10-12 inch wood, and I believe it after using it. The inventor, with years of practice, is able to effectively split longer wood, but I would think a guy just trying it out over an afternoon or two still wouldn't have the technique down well enough to use it effectively. I know I was just starting to get the hang of it, but realized it really *is* designed for short wood, per regular USA sized firewood. It also absolutely has to slip in the hands at the last second, or it just doesn't work well. It will work with a tight grip, but not so hot and will stick.

It's european wage scale priced though, ain't gonna fly in the USA like that.

 

[svk]

Hey everyone, just a heads up that the Leveraxe is coming back to MN to be tested by a few guys here. PM me if you'd like to be added to the list. I'll have it for a short time before it travels to another GTG.

 

[Philbert]

By looking at the video and listening to you evaluation made me wonder, how much, in fact, you have splitted firewood in your life.

Respectfully, this thread was about AS members trying a new tool and providing their feedback, based on their personal experience. Not a place for them to be told that they are wrong because some do not like your product.

Philbert

 

[maul ratt]

By looking at the video and listening to you evaluation made me wonder, how much, in fact, you have splitted firewood in your life.
That really didn't look very professional. It is not prohibited to hit two times to same place. That is what you have to do a lot with the conventional axes and mauls.
With the Leveraxe, sometimes, yes, but rather seldom, if you realize to hold the handle gently and allow the rotation. You mentioned about this must, but you did not do so.
I know that it is totally different way to hold the handle comparing to the conventional axes and mauls, but still, try it anyway and you will be surprised to the result.
Leverage is the main thing in this innovation. It has nothing to do with wedging, because in practice, if you can use it right, it penetrates into the block only 5 millimetres, less than a quarter of an inch. This may sound complicated, but the fact is, that the leverage is the force that makes the job. This requires some knowledge of the physical laws, but even without knowing them you can manage by obeying the instructions. The last part of the video "What about white pine" looked unbelievable. Do you really split the wood with your axe and maul in the same way. If you do not succeed in the first hit, you select a new "virginal" place without using the advantage gained by the first hit.
It is always the most difficult task the get the first split away from the block, because the bark resists a lot, but the next ones are much easier, because there is bark only on the other side and the resistance is much smaller. If you squeeze the handle and do not allow the rotation, it will cause a lot strain to it. The blade wants to twist but if it cannot do it, all the force goes to the handle.
The handle is wood, natural material. Sometimes it happens that there will come some cracks to it, it can even get broken. It can be replaced in that case very easy. This hasn't got much to do with the normal splitting. Painting is what it is, good or bad. There is no need for the painting to be some Rembrandt or Mona Lisa.
It operates very satisfactory also without the paint. The blade is allowed to be loose. The connection of the blade and handle is patented and idiot proof. They cannot get rid of each others, because the form of the eye of the blade is conical and the form of the end of the handle is wedge. In between of the eyes of the blade is plastic hose attached to the handle with stainless steel hooks. The blade can be wobbly , don't worry about it, it is even better if it is not so tight, because this way you cannot resist the rotation so much.
The Leveraxe has a price tag. The price varies depending of the place , from where you purchase it. The price consists of many things, as patent and development fees. It is impossible to sell it to the same price as the axes and mauls, which in fact,are from the stone age. It is an other thing if you haven't got money enough for this kind of new innovation. It is not anyway compulsory to buy this tool. The price does not make this tool any better or worse what ever it is.
When the parcel leaves me around the world, there are many hands in between before it is in your hands. There are many shipping and tax fees. They are not my idea. Even if I would give the axes free of charge as I did in this case, there are still the same hands in between.
Security seem to be such an advantage that hasn't got any meaning in your scale. The Leveraxe 1, the first hasn't caused any accident during it's existent, ten years. The Leveraxe 2, the one we are talking now, hasn't caused any accident.
First time in the history there are safety elements build in to the eccentric blade which will stop the blade on the top of the block, or slow down the speed so, that it is fully under the control of the user. Only in Finland happens 5-7000 different kind of accidents every year with the conventional axes and mauls (wedge). I think even one is too many.
Our population is only 5,5 million. Your's is over 300 million. I wonder what might be the number of accidents ?
I have used different kind of axes since I was 6 years old. The last 20 years I have worked with different kind of new innovations and especially with the Vipukirves/Leveraxe 1 and 2. I will be 75 years next February. I can concider myself to be as very talented firewood maker and I'm still willing to share that experience with you. Try to understand how the things, also in general level, happen. If there is something which you do not understand, please do not black paint it. That kind of attitude is nobody's benefit. I hope you to have more time to make yourself acquainted with the Leveraxe 2 and maybe later make an other review with more experience about it.
Best regards from Finland
Heikki, the inventor

Finland, I really appreciate you sending the Leveraxe 2 for us to try out. My review is based on my opinions after 2 days of usage. If I am swinging it wrong , I would certainly like to try it again. It must take some practice learning how to swing with a loose grip. I was afraid if I didn't hold the handle too tight, it would go flying out of my hands. What product do you think works best, the Leveraxe 2 or the Original Leveraxe?
Thanks,

 

[stihl sawing]

With the greatest respect, as well. I know that there are a lot people who do not love my invention because of it's high price. The price is anyway such a thing to which I really cannot effect.
We are dealing with the laws of business. There is the must, that I must get so much money back, that it can cover the expenses. The price hasn't got anything to do with the technical usage.
This test Leveraxe 2 is free of charge for the persons interested. The video is technically well done. The consist of it is misleading because of lack of knowledge. How else I can explain the advantages of this innovation if I cannot refer to the examples seen in the video. There is no mean to insult anybody. I fully understand, that this innovation may be little complicated to understand because nearly everything in it is totally different comparing to the conventional splitting based to different formed wedges.
Friction is a word that should be understood when trying to understand the function of the Leveraxe. That is nearly non existent in it.
Leverage is the other word which is good to master, because firs time in the history the firewood is made by leverage. These two functions are gathered together to Leveraxe 2 and 1. There was also feed back about the vibration. Of course there is always all kind of vibrations when the thins move in high speed. This vibration will not reach you hands and body if you hold the handle gently without squeezing the handle. There is no twist to your wrists either. Your hands and body will not get sore even after hours of continuous splitting. Important is to wear soft leather gloves, such, without anything that could add friction, rubber or something similar. The handle must be able to rotate in your hands an restricted.
Maybe we are not speaking quite the same language, because I am not native English, but I wish to find same tune to our conversation. I am not taking anything away from any of you, on the contrary I am willing to share all the experience what I have gained during these 69 years in firewood splitting.

And this one is done.