The unofficial Mac 10-10 thread

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Can someone show me a pic of the auto oil adjustment screw for my 10-10 RH? I cant find one. I swear its manual only, but with the tard that owned it prior to me idk if he gutted parts or not.

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Both chains are Carlton semi-chisel 3/8 pitch .050 chains. Both are now running oregon heavy duty speed sprockets.

Even my bad xlao outruns the mac with a 20" hardnose bar thats wore out so bad i could probably be sued by osha for safety hazard

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Can someone show me a pic of the auto oil adjustment screw for my 10-10 RH? I cant find one. I swear its manual only, but with the tard that owned it prior to me idk if he gutted parts or not.

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I think it's under the front cover of the saw, you have to take the cover off to get to it, just one screw.
 
I see no screw. Im lookin in the tank. Just a few bolts to hold the saw together.

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I see no screw. Im lookin in the tank. Just a few bolts to hold the saw together.

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Some of those saws don't have an automatic oiler, or so I was told. If it has an oiler it will be right in the front behind the plate. I doubt if you can see it through the oil cap hole if that's how you're doing it.
 
No i pulled the screw out n removed the cover

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As a tribute to the Mac 10 series, it's worth to mention that the Mac design was copied by Danarm UK (or produced under license) and they named it the 55 Mark II.
the saw is almost identical to the 10-10 series (Tillotson carb, manual oiler). This one has the left hand starter, but right hand starter exists as well.


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Hey chainlightning!

Here is the location of the roll pin to remove the choke or primer button. Oh and a nice easy upgrade when your rubber snubber breaks on you SDC equipped 10 series you can solder on a 2-56 steel clevis for a model airplane pushrod and the linkage will be trouble free!




View attachment 289400
 
Hey 6-10 - Let's see a photo of that clevis modification please!

I try to keep a few extra snubbers on hand, I also have a handful of rubber keepers from different SEW gearboxes that make a pretty good substitute for the real snubbers when you don't have them. Sure makes getting the carburetor out and back in again a simple task, just pop the choke control rod out, give the carburetor body a twist to disconnect the throttle control rod, and slip the fuel line off.

Mark
 
Sure! I still have to do it to my 6-10 so i'll do a good write up on it with pics in a few days time. Till then if you look at my last post(230) its in the pic there.
 
Here is the location of the roll pin to remove the choke or primer button. Oh and a nice easy upgrade when your rubber snubber breaks on you SDC equipped 10 series you can solder on a 2-56 steel clevis for a model airplane pushrod and the linkage will be trouble free!




View attachment 289400

Thanks!! I will have to borrow a punch from my buddy cause I don't have one that small. Much appreciated!
 
Rubber Snubber Delete Upgrade!

Ok so you go to start your saw, pull out the choke and it won't start. take off the air cleaner (miles from your shop!) and the choke rod is laying next to the choke button laughing at you because the little rubber snubber finally broke! Here is a quick permanent fix to replace the snubber for good.


Here is all you need. A 2-56 size solder clevis for a model airplane and silver solder. You can get the clevis at any local Hobby shop that sells Radio Control equipment.
View attachment 289564

Here is what the stock snubber set up looks like. There is no z-bend on the button side of the linkage allowing it to be removed from the button simply by sliding the linkage towards the muffler side of the saw. the snubber pulls on the linkage the opposite way to keep it in the button.
View attachment 289565

Remove the carb with both the choke and throttle rods. remove the choke and throttle rods from the carb and remove the snubber from both since you will no longer need it. lay the clevis next to the button side of the choke rod and mark right where the comes through the hole in the end of the clevis.
View attachment 289567

now cut the choke rod on the mark with a dremel equipped with a cut off wheel. then clean the rod with sandpaper to ready it for soldering. solder the clevis in place noting the position of the clevis pin is in line with the z-bend at the carb end of the rod.
View attachment 289568
 
Now heat the rod right above the clevis to soften the rod and bent it up and to the left slightly so the clevis will not bind in the choke button hole when the choke is pulled out.
View attachment 289569
View attachment 289570

Reinstall all the linkages on the carb and reinstall the assembly. open the end of the clevis and slide it onto the choke button and test for proper operarion. if it binds or wont close the chok all the way you can remove the rod and heat and bend it till you get the proper fit. Now you have a super reliable choke system.
View attachment 289571
 
Nice day so I took the 6-10, 10-10, and the 600 out. all cut pretty good!
View attachment 290231

and the 6-10 video, 24" b/c
[video=youtube;sO9TY4rYtUM]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sO9TY4rYtUM&list=UUBqWjKe2YDLHEy9EGjeiJ8Q&index=3[/video]
 

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