The unofficial Mac 10-10 thread

[mad murdock]

Thanks for the info. Is the reed there purely for noise abatement? Or does it provide a slight amount of backpressure to assist in better engine performance?

 

[Eccentric]

Thanks for the info. Is the reed there purely for noise abatement? Or does it provide a slight amount of backpressure to assist in better engine performance?

It's there for noise control. There were both reed and non-reed type mufflers used in this series.

 

[homelitejim]

Thanks for the info. Is the reed there purely for noise abatement? Or does it provide a slight amount of backpressure to assist in better engine performance?

I enjoy the exhaust note of the reed muffler over the standard box muffler, gives it more of a raspy pop, like a old raspy voice logger who has spent more time in a bar than in church.

 

[ozflea]

I enjoy the exhaust note of the reed muffler over the standard box muffler, gives it more of a raspy pop, like a old raspy voice logger who has spent more time in a bar than in church.

Might be with Homelite owners but not Mac Men we as pure as dirty slush and real god botherers and always in church

 

[mad murdock]

OK, I am up for the challenge, I am going to reabilitate this muffler, and fashion a new reed. Any suggestions as to what to make it out of? I have on hand some thin sheet 4130 steel, I think that will do, unless if you think some 304 1/4 hard stainless will be more durable, I have some of that here as well. Kind of hard to tell as i don't have the complete assembly since it broke, does the reed seat flat against the mounting plate? or is there a shim under the mount tab of the reed itself to space it off the plate a touch? I will make a new deflector cover as well, that will be an easy one.

 

[heimannm]

I have a reed or two in my box of 10 Series mufflers, the original were carbon steel I believe, but the replacement parts were stainless? I could have it wrong as I haven't looked at them for a while.

The material is of necessity very thin in order to flex with the exhaust pressure so I think you have to scrap the idea of the 1/4" material. To fashion your own I would try to find some thin "spring steel" like the blade of a knife or spatula used for applying body filler or dry wall compound. Spares are flat, but the used ones always seem to have a bow in them leaving the port partially opened. The IPL's I have don't show any sort of spacer behind them.

If I remember over the weekend I will try to take a few photos and post some measurements.

Mark

 

[mad murdock]

I have a reed or two in my box of 10 Series mufflers, the original were carbon steel I believe, but the replacement parts were stainless? I could have it wrong as I haven't looked at them for a while.

The material is of necessity very thin in order to flex with the exhaust pressure so I think you have to scrap the idea of the 1/4" material. To fashion your own I would try to find some thin "spring steel" like the blade of a knife or spatula used for applying body filler or dry wall compound. Spares are flat, but the used ones always seem to have a bow in them leaving the port partially opened. The IPL's I have don't show any sort of spacer behind them.

If I remember over the weekend I will try to take a few photos and post some measurements.

Mark

Thanks Mark, the 4130 sheet I have is like 20 thou thickness, the 304 stainless is 1/4 hard (spec) and is 15 thou thick. definitely would never be able to build out of 1/4" stock, that is for sure.. I will see which is springier, and go accordingly. I will take pics of the pieces prior to reassembly, may take a few days of lunchtime effort, as we are in the scramble to get aircraft ready to go to work next week. progress will be slow-but steady. Thanks again!
Karson (mad murdock)

 

[Mac 6-10]

i bought a new reed a few years ago and it was stainless with a slight bow outward from the muffler. My 6-10 has no spacer between the reed, just muffler-reed-retainer.

 

[Mac 6-10]

View attachment 279570View attachment 279572

 

[Gearhead1]

Finally completed this saw today. I restored the powerhead 3-4 years ago and left it sitting on the shelf, but I picked up this OEM bar locally today and put them together. After all the time sitting, just a few pulls and it was running fine. I think its of the very last production before solid state ignition was used on the 10-10 model. I doubt I'll use it as a cutter; it belonged to a great friend who is now passed, and I have other saws for firewood duty.
View attachment 280756View attachment 280757

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Finally completed this saw today. I restored the powerhead 3-4 years ago and left it sitting on the shelf, but I picked up this OEM bar locally today and put them together. After all the time sitting, just a few pulls and it was running fine. I think its of the very last production before solid state ignition was used on the 10-10 model. I doubt I'll use it as a cutter; it belonged to a great friend who is now passed, and I have other saws for firewood duty.
View attachment 280756View attachment 280757

Nice. Very nice. Wish I could run across a nice bar like that for mine.

 

[heimannm]

18" NOS bars like that on e-bay for $16 + shipping.

Mark

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

18" NOS bars like that on e-bay for $16 + shipping.

Mark

Thanks. I obviously haven't looked too hard for one yet and didn't realize they were readily available. But I did run across a decent looking 250 today outta nowhere with what appears to be the original bar. Pickin' it up tomorrow and will probably hafta officially join the Mac thread after gettin' it home with lots of questions.:msp_biggrin:

 

[Mac 6-10]

I like it! I still haven't even put gas in my 6-10 since restoration but next weekend it says 57 degrees! time to get it cutting. I have one of those 18" bars comeing tomorrow for the 10-10.

 

[Gearhead1]

I was given this 10-10A free from a friend, along with two Mac 15's. It might have been one of the dirtiest saws I've seen, from so much oil/sawdust inside the housing and cooling fins. My total investment so far amounts to a set of breaker points, condenser, spark plug, and new chain. It shows 150 p.s.i. compression, starts easily and runs well. I think I'll leave it in its work clothes and not make it to look like new. We need a saw to take to our place in the U.P., and a rough around the edges old McCulloch shouldn't appear too flashy.
View attachment 283077View attachment 283078View attachment 283079

 

[Mac 6-10]

I like my 10-10 too. just got that 18" mac bar installed and scored a NOS airfilter for 20.00. ready to cut now.View attachment 283417

 

[Gearhead1]

Here are a couple photos I took this morning, showing the 10-10 saws as they changed through the many years of production. From the first model on the left, the next saw shows the change to LH starter and addition of automatic oiling. The third saw shows the addition of chain brake and updated top cover/air filter. The fourth saw is very close to the third, but has electronic ignition. The final saw is a PM10-10 Super, with displacement increased to 3.5 cubic inches over the previous 3.3.

View attachment 284541View attachment 284542

 

[Eccentric]

Very nice visual illustration and description.

 

[Mac 6-10]

I always think how nice it would be to own evey variant of the 10 series but soon realize how many combination there where over the years! I would need a 40x60 shed to house them all! and im talking only the X-10 not the CP LG SP or PM models!

 

[Mac 6-10]

10-10 Flat/Pancake muffler to Duct Reed Style!

I know there has been some discussion on the reed mufflers lately so I thought I would do a little step by step muffler up-grade.

I got lucky on ebay and was able to get everything I needed to replace the old flat muffler that most 10-10s are equipped with from the factory with the awesome ducted reed style muffler that came on the higher end 10 series. here is what you need and how to do it

Sorry I don't have part numbers. there are so many different numbers that will work.

1. Ducted muffler assembly (duct, cover, and hardware. from any 10 series family will work, This one is from a SP60)
2. Cylinder shroud from a 1-10, 2-10, 3-10. (you will see why later, read on!)
3. 2 intake spacer gaskets and 2 carb spacer gaskets (I make my own)
4. about an hour of time or so.

Here is an overview of the required parts.
View attachment 286589

Here is the flat muffler before disassembly.
View attachment 286586

First step is drain the fuel from the tank. then proceed to remove the carb and flywheel housing. disconnet the kill switch wire from the coil.
View attachment 286588

Remove the top and lower handles.
View attachment 286590