Guess what, I didn't have the key lined up..I was switching out the .354 mac drum to a Oregon .375 ,some mistakes are painful.
The unofficial Mac 10-10 thread
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Guess what, I didn't have the key lined up..I was switching out the .354 mac drum to a Oregon .375 ,some mistakes are painful.
Bet you gave yourself a clip upside the head for that lol
The clutches with the keyway are pretty fragile, you have to be very careful when torqueing the clutch nut. I have broken a few myself being overzealous getting them tightened.
Mark
Mark
No kidding, now I'm terrified of doing it again! I ended up trying it again with the clutch from another saw , I basically seated buy hand and then gingerly put a socket on it.
It's funny but I've been considering how many of us will be buying (bad) saws in the next few years. The popularity of the 10-10 is growing and with some collectors snatching up dozens of them at a time I kinda feel like the likely hood of getting a good one is diminishing, they are a fantastic saw but there is a finite number of them.
Depends on your area. There are always 10-10's for sale in my area fairly cheap, though prices are rising. By cheap I mean $40 ~ $60 for a complete saw with a bar and chain that you'd expect to do some work on to get running right. I've never paid more than $35 for any of mine except my 10-10S which is exceptionally nice. Gave $100 for that. A couple were freebies. What I've found most interesting is that none of them have come with scored top ends. Not a single one. Normal problems seem to be broken recoil springs and fuel leaking from somewhere along with just being banged up and/or filthy from neglect. Don't think I've ever acquired one from the original owner, either. There are a million of em scattered around out there.
I picked up my first 10-10A last summer for $20.It was a damn nice looking saw missing the AF copver & filter & it had intermittent spark with a chip in it.I put another condenser in it,changed out the coil & rerouted the plug wire & rebuilt the carb.I put a new baffle in the muffler as the old muffler would make your ears bleed.That is one of my favorite go to saws.
I've picked up several more 10-10's since then including a Super 10-10,that's my 2nd favorite go to saw.I just love the sound of them.
Ed
I've picked up several more 10-10's since then including a Super 10-10,that's my 2nd favorite go to saw.I just love the sound of them.
Ed
The area I'm in , not cheap even for a fixer ,but I live in a warmer climate. 45-100$
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5 years ago I could buy as many 10-10s as you could handle around here for $10-$50 depending on condition. Now the same saws seem to be fetching $100-$300. Now whether or not they are actually selling is another thing all together.
I think that it's gotten to the point just about everywhere that the "craze" for all McCullochs has driven the price of them up.Supply & demand dictate the price.Since the Macs are no longer made anymore,I think the prices will continue to rise.The only problem is that there are only so many NOS parts left out there.It helps that some companies have started making aftermarket parts,but those are few & far in between.
Ed
Ed
Aaron Rybicki
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Welp, I ran my Grandpa's 10-10A the other night - just a monthly start up (because I haven't ran it much or cut with it). It has a fairly new piston and rings in it. I've started it, revved it, etc. in the recent past. Last night, I ran it and as it was warming up, (30 seconds in) I pulled the choke just slightly and it died. I restarted it and it was running a little rough and eventually stopped. I tried pulling it over and when I did, it accompanied a rough metal scraping sound. I pulled the plug and it looked like Piston and all the parts were still fluidly operational - but when I pulled the rope it made the metallic scraping sound. When I shook the saw it sound like some heavy metallic rattling. I pulled the B&C and the clutch nut had came loose and the clutch shoes were ready to come out of the drum. So I removed the whole clutch assembly. Shook it again and it still made the heavy metallic rattling. I took a flashlight and it looks to be that the flywheel nut has came loose as well. Explaining the heavy rattling. I have yet to pull the fly wheel cover. But it still has the metal scraping sound when I pull it over. I really hope nothing internally went.... What I AM hoping for is that the flywheel key sheared off. Which might explain why it was running rough and then stopped. As well as the sound it is making... Fingers crossed... Anyone ever encountered or came across a similar situation as this?
I can think of a guy who probably has.
Only if the the nuts came loose. Torque values in the table are in inch pounds
In foot pounds
Clutch nut 13 - 14 foot pounds
Flywheel nut 20 - 25 foot pounds.
In foot pounds
Clutch nut 13 - 14 foot pounds
Flywheel nut 20 - 25 foot pounds.
And, they are not alone.
If the flywheel nut came loose the flywheel would likely be dragging on the coil, that would make a sound...
I had four 800 saws in the attic, two had the inserts come loose in the flywheel and one had a sheared key, folks I got them from assumed all were junk.
Mark
I had four 800 saws in the attic, two had the inserts come loose in the flywheel and one had a sheared key, folks I got them from assumed all were junk.
Mark
So I put one of my right hand 10-10s together today with the sdc carb rebuilt , fuel filter and Oregon drum. I soaked the carb for a week then hot water washed it air gunned it and assembled it.
The saw didn't want to idle or run really, just popped,
so following the mantra of members here I cleaned/filed the points, the saw still struggled then all of a sudden ran idled/wot great for about 4-5 minutes then died . It would pop every other pull but all together I must have pulled it approximately 50 to 60 times , so back in the shed till my tricep stops quivering, Should I just buy new points or is my thinking wrong?
Btw I think this 10-10 was originally a bullfrog carb.
The saw didn't want to idle or run really, just popped,
so following the mantra of members here I cleaned/filed the points, the saw still struggled then all of a sudden ran idled/wot great for about 4-5 minutes then died . It would pop every other pull but all together I must have pulled it approximately 50 to 60 times , so back in the shed till my tricep stops quivering, Should I just buy new points or is my thinking wrong?
Btw I think this 10-10 was originally a bullfrog carb.
Correct me if I'm wrong (someone) ,but I don't believe that any of the 10-10's ever had bullfrog carbs on them.I know the 2-10's did.
Ed
Ed
Well you could be right as this saw has a 10-10 AF cover on it but no tag and its got a funky air cleaner, the cover could have been changed I suppose?
The 10-10 AF covers & the 2-10 AF covers were totally different in shape & couldn't be interchanged.The 10-10's had about 3 different AF styles that I know of,possibly more.
Ed
