The unofficial Mac 10-10 thread

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I went away for the weekend and I come to back to a mother load of replies, thanks for the advice guys! I used to have my Dad's PM310 (yah, I know) up until we had to move south, it had been apart for years at that point, and I had to toss it. I grew up in area that was predominantly Mac's, few Homelights, so yellow are the first saws that I ever knew. I've been having problems with my Stihl MS361 as of late, and it would have been nice to have a backup saw....
 
I went away for the weekend and I come to back to a mother load of replies, thanks for the advice guys! I used to have my Dad's PM310 (yah, I know) up until we had to move south, it had been apart for years at that point, and I had to toss it. I grew up in area that was predominantly Mac's, few Homelights, so yellow are the first saws that I ever knew. I've been having problems with my Stihl MS361 as of late, and it would have been nice to have a backup saw....
I've seen a couple 100$ 10-10 macs in your area on craigslist lately,but I do love the ms361 used one at work for 3 years and I always kept her on the rich side , other guys would tell me that I'd get more out of it leaner, but it never let me down and that was the saw everyone borrowed.
Can't go wrong with a good pro mac 10-10 as a back up.
 
I've seen a couple 100$ 10-10 macs in your area on craigslist lately,but I do love the ms361 used one at work for 3 years and I always kept her on the rich side , other guys would tell me that I'd get more out of it leaner, but it never let me down and that was the saw everyone borrowed.
Can't go wrong with a good pro mac 10-10 as a back up.
I love the saw and it was reliable and dependable for years, but I've had some carburetor issues as of late due to bad fuel. I'm on my third carburetor now and hopefully the issues are behind me, it will probably only see Motomix going forward.
 
084143DA-434C-43EA-88DF-C8CB5E6DE7B0.jpeg 3B2DEBB5-FD21-4E9C-A69B-A52FEBA62B1A.jpeg 7DECB24E-D883-46E7-900A-C079E94718D4.jpeg 93C7D406-50E6-4498-8B90-7CB3EDA084FD.jpeg Hello chain-saw gurus and true men of this world... I am Pete from SE Minnesota. Like many of you, I have been using my grandfathers saw for years and I have some questions about my well-kept Mac 10-10 Automatic.
It’s a RH Start machine that I put a new 20” (probably a bit too much but who cares) bar and full-chip chain on this Spring. Today, I had to rewind the starter recoil with fresh nylon. Fun stuff.
Anyway:
1. From the photographs, and the few serial #s visible, can you tell me if this saw was made in 1969? (My best guess).
2. What is the displacement of this saw?
3. Where was my saw made? Wisconsin? California?
4. I’m debating tearing the whole saw down for a fun project and having it bored-out and putting a fresh piston in her... do people do this?

I love this saw; she swears like a sailor, howls like a banshee, and screams bloody-murder. My neighbors think I’m filming a horror movie in my back yard as I say “hua hua hua” and fire her up. LOL.

-Pete
 
Hi Pete, welcome to the obsession. I can answer a couple of those questions. That saw is 54cc and actually it will run a 20" bar quite well. Being an early 10-10 it was likely made in LA.

As far as rebuilding it. I suppose you could if you want, but these things don't seem to wear out real easy. If it starts easy and runs strong just run it as is. You could remove the tins and paint them up and replace crank seals and may not even have to touch the piston and cylinder.
 
Hi Pete, welcome to the obsession. I can answer a couple of those questions. That saw is 54cc and actually it will run a 20" bar quite well. Being an early 10-10 it was likely made in LA.

As far as rebuilding it. I suppose you could if you want, but these things don't seem to wear out real easy. If it starts easy and runs strong just run it as is. You could remove the tins and paint them up and replace crank seals and may not even have to touch the piston and cylinder.

Do you think this is a 1967, 68, 69, or 1970 Manufacture Date? How does one know?

-Pete
 
Hello all - I've got a question....

My dad's old saw is an all yellow rh pull pancake muffler with black lettering on the air cleaner cover. Based on the comments I'm reading here, that's a 1968-70 model as well? model tag is long gone.
 
Curious what you guys use to seal the air box? Some of 10-10’s I have, use this putty like playdoh stuff moulded on the ridge of the body and the top cover comes and squishes it down, I have fuel tank gasket. But what seals the air box? I’ve been trying foam tape. Thanks guys
 
Yea but 1/4” wide tape trimming and getting it to stick to the body is tricky, caulk material hey! Oem is not my first choice because I wanna chop wood soon but I’m going to try some product or try the foam tape sticky one side, thanks mark
 
Awsome butyl tape idea works good!
What can I use from around the garage for a fuel line sock (filter material) the saw has a good stock style line with a cavity for a filter cloth thing, can I stick a filter or cut a cloth or home remedy thanks guys
 
Awsome butyl tape idea works good!
What can I use from around the garage for a fuel line sock (filter material) the saw has a good stock style line with a cavity for a filter cloth thing, can I stick a filter or cut a cloth or home remedy thanks guys

I stuffed a Poulan type filter in one MAC line. I has a small enough diameter and the nipple is small enough to work well.

Poulan 530095643

Oregon-In-Tank-Fuel-Filter-1-8in-Replaces-OEM-Poulan.jpg

The OEM type ones are also available McCulloch 63932
 
I may be wrong, but believe the D009 is an easier mount pattern to adapt. Haven't tried one myself, but am pretty sure that one or the other simply needs a minor modification for oil delivery and the bar adjusting pin turned upside down to line up with the adjuster hole on the bar.
 
I may be wrong, but believe the D009 is an easier mount pattern to adapt. Haven't tried one myself, but am pretty sure that one or the other simply needs a minor modification for oil delivery and the bar adjusting pin turned upside down to line up with the adjuster hole on the bar.

I don't know about k095, but I have used d009 husky mounts. Easy to do, as Pogo said just flip adjuster pin. Then you just have to grind a slight groove in surface of bar to join to the oiling hole. Next you need to put a spacer over bar studs cause groove in bar is bigger than stud diameter.

To be honest sometimes I don't do that although I've been advised not to. I have a 18" Oregon d009 bar on my 10-10a currently. Instead of spacers I just make sure hold tip of bar up to load against studs. I usually just buck with this saw anyways.
 

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