I'd say 68' .
The unofficial Mac 10-10 thread
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Being that the macs are 8mm and a k095 mount is 8.2mm I figured it would be workable?
I have put a d009 on my Remington super 754 and it works great.
I find the D009 mounts are the easiest to modify. I took a 24" bar, drilled additional adjuster holes, filed both doo9 adjuster holes up into the bar channel and made them a bit wider.
It works on a all my ten series saws, the additional adjuster holes were for the SP80. It also works on all my older Poulans and 50+cc Homelites and Pioneers as well.
I plan on doing what has to be done to make it work on my Super 990 as well.
I use springs for the 5/16" bar studs.
It works on a all my ten series saws, the additional adjuster holes were for the SP80. It also works on all my older Poulans and 50+cc Homelites and Pioneers as well.
I plan on doing what has to be done to make it work on my Super 990 as well.
I use springs for the 5/16" bar studs.
I get the feeling when we suggest using springs for stud spacers that sometimes folks just go, "Huh?".
For those who may fall into that category, a pic may be worth a thousand words as an example of what is being suggested. Just a couple pieces of an expansion spring available from the local hardware store.
About as simple and inexpensive as it gets for fashioning a couple of stud spacers in a pinch. You don't even need to be super precise with the diameter. Just 'close enough' will usually be fine. Another easy and cheap approach is to use hydraulic brake or fuel line. 'Course the cool spacers are always out there if you want to spend the money, though they can be a little spendy. But an added feature of the springs is that if you size the inside diameter a hair small (or squeeze them into more of an a oval shape in a vise or with pliers) they'll stay on the studs and you're not chasin' em every time you remove the bar.
For those who may fall into that category, a pic may be worth a thousand words as an example of what is being suggested. Just a couple pieces of an expansion spring available from the local hardware store.
Been working/ compiling parts for my flea market pro 10-10s . Yesterday I broke the only green oiler button I had on the saw but kinda glad I did because when I took the tank off again the insulator came up and the lower gasket was completely mangled with half of it missing! Seems like the P O messed up everything that he touched, honestly I can't believe how nice the cylinder and piston is.
So I replaced the gasket and the manual oiler button (now black) after assembling it all back together in true McCulloch 10-10 fashion it fired right up and settled into an idle , which is pretty nice considering I have been challenged with some of my other saw projects, seems like when I need a win to keep me motivated I always get it from the 10-10 series.
So I replaced the gasket and the manual oiler button (now black) after assembling it all back together in true McCulloch 10-10 fashion it fired right up and settled into an idle , which is pretty nice considering I have been challenged with some of my other saw projects, seems like when I need a win to keep me motivated I always get it from the 10-10 series.
iwannachopwood
ArboristSite Operative
regarding tuning. After a carb clean and new carb kit, the 10-10 did react normal when leaning the Low screw, the RPMS did increase engaging the clutch, normal
But now leaning the Low screw 1/4-1/2 turn (clockwise) from stock, results in the rpms decreasing and it dies out.....why?..airleak?
Counterclockwise on the Low still works normal, it loads up with fuel.
But now leaning the Low screw 1/4-1/2 turn (clockwise) from stock, results in the rpms decreasing and it dies out.....why?..airleak?
Counterclockwise on the Low still works normal, it loads up with fuel.
What changed between the cleaning/new carb kit/reacting normal and 'now'?
iwannachopwood
ArboristSite Operative
5 mins on the bench idling and playing with it,
Low 3/4 out its happy. Although it will run until 2 turns!
High 1 turn out it’s happy.
Maby it sucked somthing up or air leak possibly just tinkering hard on it
brand new rings warming it up letting it get to know each other, chopped one 2x4...
Without having a vac/pressure check to go by, I'd say dial it into its 'happy place' and run it for awhile to see how it performs. If it has power in the cut, the throttle response is fairly snappy, and it comes back down to a nice steady idle from WOT it probably doesn't have a very significant leak if one even exists.
Multifaceted
Firewood Hoarder, Axe Enthusiast
Anyone got a good source for an air filter for these old saws? Picked one up at a GTG on Saturday, with some fresh fuel, cleaned spark plug and some coaxing I've got here fired up, idling OK and decent throttle response. I can make due with the filter I have, but with some casual searching I can't find anything. This is an older 10-10 - filter looks like this:
(new filter, not the one on the saw)
(new filter, not the one on the saw)
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Those filters are NLA and even used ones seem to fetch about $50 when they come up on Ebay. I got lucky and scored one for $15 a couple of years ago. I have 2 saws that use that filter so I thought it prudent to have a spare on hand.Anyone got a good source for an air filter for these old saws? Picked one up at a GTG on Saturday, with some fresh fuel, cleaned spark plug and some coaxing I've got here fired up, idling OK and decent throttle response. I can make due with the filter I have, but with some casual searching I can't find anything. This is an older 10-10 - filter looks like this:
(new filter, not the one on the saw)
Unfortunately I'm looking for one of these for my 2-10 I'm currently going through. I might try to hot glue some mesh over it to get me by for now.
Craft store felt, some posts about it.
Make that hard felt from the craft store. It comes in sheets. Works as well id not better than the original flocking.
Hold it up to the light in the store to make sure there are not a lot of thin sections before you pick a sheet.
The hot melt does seem to old up well.
Awesome guys thanks for the tips. Hoping to get this saw up and running this weekend.
Nevar242
ArboristSite Lurker
New Problem [ see page 37 for saw pics and description ] Pro Mac 10-10 Model 6000014U. The saw sat for years before I got it. Started on the old gas/oil. Even with the new gas Smoked like hell. Used 40 to 1 , then cut it down to 50 to 1. Less smoke runs great When warmed up idles good.
Cleaned the entire thing up , Gas filter end , plug, New Chain, Fixed the oil cap [ cross threaded] New oil and gas cap. [ both on e-bay.] Oil cap did not have the needed O ring using the old one.
Cleaned the Carb. Did not remove it [ just the top Cover removed] Ran great started OK . Stored Outside in a shed. With Bar oil and Gas in it] I run it once A month or so just to hear it. The rubber mat it sits on is now Oily . Had Half A tank of Gas [ thought I had more BUT ???]
Now this year It seamed to have Hydro static lock . [ cord would barely move] Remove the Plug 2 pulls on the cord with plug out. Install the plug Bingo starts and runs GREAT 1 or 2 pulls.
NOTE this Saw is more of a Hobby I inherited it when MY FIL passed. I actually looked for things to cut.
So been sitting for A month or so . The first time The War Dept. asks me to cut something . The Flippin thing goes into Lock on the first pull. Removed the plug Blew it out with the compressor like 4/5 times. As soon as the plug is installed. Full lock Maybe get half a rope. So Let it sit with no plug for an hour or so. Gave it A Pull almost ran . On the wood Deck, Removed the plug, pulled the cord . Holly crap it spits out gas/oil MIX.
Got about $150. Not worth anymore to me. I just Want a Chain saw. Idea On a cause and Fix. If it goes up for sale You guys get first shot. Even have the Owners Manual.. No Idea what it is worth..
Cleaned the entire thing up , Gas filter end , plug, New Chain, Fixed the oil cap [ cross threaded] New oil and gas cap. [ both on e-bay.] Oil cap did not have the needed O ring using the old one.
Cleaned the Carb. Did not remove it [ just the top Cover removed] Ran great started OK . Stored Outside in a shed. With Bar oil and Gas in it] I run it once A month or so just to hear it. The rubber mat it sits on is now Oily . Had Half A tank of Gas [ thought I had more BUT ???]
Now this year It seamed to have Hydro static lock . [ cord would barely move] Remove the Plug 2 pulls on the cord with plug out. Install the plug Bingo starts and runs GREAT 1 or 2 pulls.
NOTE this Saw is more of a Hobby I inherited it when MY FIL passed. I actually looked for things to cut.
So been sitting for A month or so . The first time The War Dept. asks me to cut something . The Flippin thing goes into Lock on the first pull. Removed the plug Blew it out with the compressor like 4/5 times. As soon as the plug is installed. Full lock Maybe get half a rope. So Let it sit with no plug for an hour or so. Gave it A Pull almost ran . On the wood Deck, Removed the plug, pulled the cord . Holly crap it spits out gas/oil MIX.
Got about $150. Not worth anymore to me. I just Want a Chain saw. Idea On a cause and Fix. If it goes up for sale You guys get first shot. Even have the Owners Manual.. No Idea what it is worth..
Well..., it's worth fixin'. Drain the fluids and remove the front cover to access the oil pump for basic inspection and probable service. If you're lucky it's just a little loose and leaking oil into the crankcase. Otherwise it may need to be serviced (or replaced if the housing would happen to be cracked). There may also be a spring clip in the tank that popped loose that's otherwise supposed to help seal the pump. Not a big job and should be fairly easy to identify and fix whatever the actual problem may be. Now if there's a significant amount of fuel in the case as well, you may have a metering lever issue in the carb that's allowing it to drain fuel into the cylinder while it's just sitting. Also an easy thing to inspect and correct while you're at it.
Should take you about half an hour to check out both of those possible scenarios.
Good luck with it.
Seriously though rebuild the carburetor! It's easy and you can watch along with a video if its your first time. The diaphragm in a carburetor will get stiff over time and if its not letting the needle sit , you put a good gas cap on and now you'll build a little pressure in the tank which in turn pushes fuel through the carb,filling the cylinder with gas as it sits in the shed.
Fyi if you can help it use ethanol free gas.
Just to let you know that aluminum stem is actually a bolt or at least it has a bolt head underneath the bakelite, last year I was twisting on one and the cap center shattered.
That's good info. Thanks for sharing.
