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Oh, come on!!!

This and the SXL are the most popular saws EVER! Cram all the MS290s you can.

Now, let's go.

Tank seam is leaking. Discuss!

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Yes, I broke the flippin' cord. Decomp or not, she's got some snot...

View attachment 276341
 
Oh, come on!!!

This and the SXL are the most popular saws EVER! Cram all the MS290s you can.

Now, let's go.

Tank seam is leaking. Discuss!

attachment.php


Yes, I broke the flippin' cord. Decomp or not, she's got some snot...

View attachment 276341

Why not use a little Moto Seal on the tank gasket, if that's where it's leaking..
 
cpr, on the aircraft that I maintain for my day job (helicopters), we use a scotch (3M) product that is a contact adhesive, EC776, should be able to get it from a good aurto supply house, or industrial supply outlet. It is excellent stuff as it is impervious to solvents, oils and fuels. We use it on the turbine engine gearboxes, and on the helicopter transmission parting surfaces to seal. Should work on a saw. The key to any bond is an absolute clean surface. We use MEK (methyl ethyl ketone), it is nasty stuff, but will get all grease, oil residue, etc. off the surfaces to be bonded. Then while you are prepping and applying the adhesive, use latex or nitrile gloves, so the oils from your hands do not contaminate the surfaces. On the Macs, I would use the factory cork gasket, with the addition of the contact adhesive on both halves, and both sides of the gasket, then stick it all together, I doubt you would ever have a leak after that.
 
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Oops. Guess I should have looked at an IPL. I didn't realize there was a gasket in there. Thought it was glued like the 125s.
 
Oops. Guess I should have looked at an IPL. I didn't realize there was a gasket in there. Thought it was glued like the 125s.

Yeah, it's just a little cork thing. When mine leaked I just covered it with MotoSeal and it leaked no more. It had a small gap where the gasket broke. I wonder if a person could find an o ring to fit in there?
 
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First post here, although I have been reading for a year or so.
For a winter project, I decided to get the McCulloch saw that my father gave me going again. I think it might be a 10-10s, but I was hoping the experts here could help me identify the model and year.
On the tag by the carb it says: Model 600111B, Ser 11-045349
It seems to have a Walbro SDC-37 carb.
When I was young my father had multilpe McCullochs at a time, so I wonder if some of the covers might have been switched.

View attachment 276830 View attachment 276831 View attachment 276832

thanks for your help
 
First post here, although I have been reading for a year or so.
For a winter project, I decided to get the McCulloch saw that my father gave me going again. I think it might be a 10-10s, but I was hoping the experts here could help me identify the model and year.
On the tag by the carb it says: Model 600111B, Ser 11-045349
It seems to have a Walbro SDC-37 carb.
When I was young my father had multilpe McCullochs at a time, so I wonder if some of the covers might have been switched.

View attachment 276830 View attachment 276831 View attachment 276832

thanks for your help

BY the model number on the tag, you do have a 10-10S there. Congrats! :rock:

(I AM resisting here, Aaron ...)

It all looks 'right' for that model, missing the brake flag. Someone did swap in that Pro Mac AF cover, though.

The 'B' designation on the model number suggests it was made earlier in the production run, but I don't have exact dates.
 
First post here, although I have been reading for a year or so.
For a winter project, I decided to get the McCulloch saw that my father gave me going again. I think it might be a 10-10s, but I was hoping the experts here could help me identify the model and year.
On the tag by the carb it says: Model 600111B, Ser 11-045349
It seems to have a Walbro SDC-37 carb.
When I was young my father had multilpe McCullochs at a time, so I wonder if some of the covers might have been switched.

View attachment 276830 View attachment 276831 View attachment 276832

thanks for your help
nice 10-10!
 
BY the model number on the tag, you do have a 10-10S there. Congrats! :rock:

(I AM resisting here, Aaron ...)

It all looks 'right' for that model, missing the brake flag. Someone did swap in that Pro Mac AF cover, though.

The 'B' designation on the model number suggests it was made earlier in the production run, but I don't have exact dates.

Good WingNut. You will continue to resist.

With a few parts changed you can make about any 10 series Mac into a 10-10S look alike. Of course it wouldn't run like an S. Hardest part would be the compression release.

Yep. A friend of mine picked up a sweet PM555 recently. Aside from labels, some changes in the yellow/black paint combination, and the MN/SN tag, it looks just like a 10-10S. It's also 57cc. Not sure if the porting is really any different. Don't have a 10-10S to compare it to right now.

Got my 7-10A running yesterday. Need to replace the fuel line, clean all the saw cake out, freshen up the starter, and reseal the damn gas tank. At least this one is a removable cover type (unlike my weepin' SP-81). Took the cover off yesterday. It's drying. Cork gasket is in one piece. Some Threebond 1194 oughta seal things up. Will rebuild the carb while I have it apart. It's a strong runner already. Will be fun to compare it with my low-use PM700.
 
Good WingNut. You will continue to resist.



Yep. A friend of mine picked up a sweet PM555 recently. Aside from labels, some changes in the yellow/black paint combination, and the MN/SN tag, it looks just like a 10-10S. It's also 57cc. Not sure if the porting is really any different. Don't have a 10-10S to compare it to right now.

Got my 7-10A running yesterday. Need to replace the fuel line, clean all the saw cake out, freshen up the starter, and reseal the damn gas tank. At least this one is a removable cover type (unlike my weepin' SP-81). Took the cover off yesterday. It's drying. Cork gasket is in one piece. Some Threebond 1194 oughta seal things up. Will rebuild the carb while I have it apart. It's a strong runner already. Will be fun to compare it with my low-use PM700.

I'm not up on the specs of the 10-10 and the 10-10S but I own both and the S does seem to have more get up and go...
 
I'm not up on the specs of the 10-10 and the 10-10S but I own both and the S does seem to have more get up and go...

Yep, the 'S' has a bit more 'snot' to it ...

Something else I have noticed .. More than any other 10-10 I have run, the 'S' really likes to collect chips on the AF and the recoil screen.
 
Yep, the 'S' has a bit more 'snot' to it ...

Something else I have noticed .. More than any other 10-10 I have run, the 'S' really likes to collect chips on the AF and the recoil screen.

I've only run my 10-10S saws around the garage, never have cut anything with them yet but they seem to be a little more than the other 10-10 saws. My PM 700 seems a little better than the S however.
 
I'm not up on the specs of the 10-10 and the 10-10S but I own both and the S does seem to have more get up and go...

Have you ran a PM555? It's 57cc and has the decomp valve (like a 10-10S), while 10-10A's (and PM10-10's) are 54cc. That's what I was referring to. Hopefully I'll find a 10-10S to run next to my friend's PM555 sometime...
 
Have you ran a PM555? It's 57cc and has the decomp valve (like a 10-10S), while 10-10A's (and PM10-10's) are 54cc. That's what I was referring to. Hopefully I'll find a 10-10S to run next to my friend's PM555 sometime...

I have a PM55 but not a 555. The specs on the 55 look about like a 10-10S, 57cc. Maybe I missed something.
 
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I have a PM55 but not a 555. The specs on the 55 look about like a 10-10S, 57cc. Maybe I missed something.

I'm curious to know if they're the same, or if they have different piston (for more compression), or different porting, or a smaller combustion chamber, or a different carb, or....

Guess I need to dig through some IPL's....
 
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I use to have one!

View attachment 277211
One that I got rid of a little while back. 10-10s Pro Mac. Never cut with it but it sure ran good. I picked it up from a friend who picked it up from the scrap yard. I put in a new line, cleaned the carb, replaced the clutch needle bearing, and fixed the recoil. Could not ask for a better running saw really. Only thing that I did not care for it was how heavy the little bugger was.
Someday when I come across one for a decent price I wanna get another one. Better yet a Pro Mac 700 sounds even better :msp_biggrin:. I was at a auction where 10 Pro Mac 700s all sold for over 100 a piece.
 
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