0000-350-3500 would be typical for that hose, though they've introduced a newer one for the M-tronic saws with finer filtration. Any of their large barb filters will work.
The unofficial Mac 10-10 thread
- Thread starter mad murdock
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p1973rsr911
ArboristSite Lurker
"The felt with the metal barb holds it down better." please explain. I assume you are talking about the in tank fuel filter. My question is which fuel filter should I use with the 034 stihl fuel line on my Pro Mac 10-10?
Like the one I showed.
Mark
Mark
p1973rsr911
ArboristSite Lurker
Mark,
Do you have a part number and Mfg. name for the filter in the picture? Thanks
Walbro 125-528 or Stens 610-717
Mark
Mark
Some filter bodies are simply a plastic mold without additional weight. Weighted filters will obviously be much more inclined to stay with the fuel regardless of the amount remaining in the tank and/or the saw's position. The ones pictured are clearly weighted as are the larger Stihl filters. Be aware that there are different sized hose barbs for different diameter fuel lines.
Tillotson OW-497 is the largest/heaviest filter I have found so far. Works well with 3/16" I.D. Tygon and will work with 1/8" I.D. Tygon if you warm it up a little first.
Mark
Mark
p1973rsr911
ArboristSite Lurker
I bought a fuel line and filter from ProvenPart, part number PP49071-PP07214. It appears to be a quality part and installed without an issue. No more leak between the fuel tank and and air box. Time will tell if the part stands up to our modern fuels.
FYI, I talked to the makers of Tygon tubing, Saint-Gobain and they informed me that F-4040-A has a shelf life of 1 year. This is why I decided to seek an alternative to Tygon.
FYI, I talked to the makers of Tygon tubing, Saint-Gobain and they informed me that F-4040-A has a shelf life of 1 year. This is why I decided to seek an alternative to Tygon.
the woolfe man
ArboristSite Operative
of the subject a little but does anyone know max rpm for the 10-10?
About 10 000 free wheeling.
Hi guys,I've got an older 10-10 with the domed air filter.I bought the air filter new last fall & put it in the saw & had no problems to speak of.I took the saw out to cut last week & it wouldn't run at all.I was just playing around with it & it runs great with the air filter & cover off,but as soon as I put the air filter on it dies down on the idle.Then I put the cover on & it dies completely.What's going on here?I know I had to put a new fuel filter in last fall too.
Sounds like either the filter is plugged or the saw was tuned w/o the a/f and cover and needs to be retuned.
Kinda tough to tune a saw that has short screws & no holes to put a screwdriver into with the filter & cover on.The old 10-10s were like that,ya had to tune them with no filter or cover.
Yeah , the short screws can be a pain to tune, bur the 1 turn out is a good starting point.
I wouldn't go any leaner then 3/4 turn with out opening the carb and checking the needle height.
I wouldn't go any leaner then 3/4 turn with out opening the carb and checking the needle height.
That's my next course of action - pulling the carb & going through it.No matter who I ask about this they all have the same answer - it doesn't make sense.If I find out it's an SDC2 I'll get rid of it & get an SDC37 or SDC18 & put on it.
If it originally ran fine with the air filter when you first installed it as you say, but now it only runs without the air filter after simply sitting for a time (and recently being fussed with a bit), the air flow has likely become obstructed by something (spider/wasp/insect nest), or it sat with some really bad fuel that is causing carb problems.
Could also be an incorrect filter base (bracket style vs. plate) that is allowing the center moulding of the filter to be forced against the carb opening when the filter cover is tightened down.
Highly unlikely to be the model of carb having a mid-life crisis.
Could also be an incorrect filter base (bracket style vs. plate) that is allowing the center moulding of the filter to be forced against the carb opening when the filter cover is tightened down.
Highly unlikely to be the model of carb having a mid-life crisis.
I had a guy on FB tell me that he had the same problem with one of his Mac saws & he said it was caused by sound waves.I just laughed at that one.I'm going to pull the carb & probably put a kit in it & see how it goes from there.
I had fresh fuel in it last fall & put fresh fuel in it last week.I tend to lean toward an insect getting into the carb.The saw wants to die down with just placing the air filter on the saw & no cover on or tightening down anything.
I had fresh fuel in it last fall & put fresh fuel in it last week.I tend to lean toward an insect getting into the carb.The saw wants to die down with just placing the air filter on the saw & no cover on or tightening down anything.
Maybe get a John Denver CD and some head phones and set them on the air box , sould cut like a champ after that mod! Lol
I hate to disappoint everyone here who was looking for a solution to the sound wave theory (I like MS's suggestion though).I talked with our old guru Bob J.& he told me a simple fix - turn the hi in a tad & turn the lo out if necessary.I did that & the saw runs great now! Sound waves,yeah right.
It's official - my 10-10S is dead.I cut with it yesterday for a short time after I got it running again & it was fine.The choke rod kept coming unhooked from the choke knob.When I first got the saw it had 140 psi.I ran the saw twice,both times were for short periods of time.I tried tyo start it again today before I went out cutting & all I got from it was a sputter.I checked & the damn choke rod was unhooked again,so I left it behind.I fixed the choke rod later on & tried to start it & got nothing.I ended up doing a compression test & it was at 90 psi.My gauge is fairly accurate.I can't understand how 15-20 min.run time would make it drop 50 psi.I had the carb set spot on,so I know it wasn't too lean.
