Check your compression release valve, it may have some carbon or sawdust holding it open. It is possible to lap those valves to improve the seal.
Mark
Mark
The unofficial Mac 10-10 thread
- Thread starter mad murdock
- Start date
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Thanks Mark,I'll have a look at that.As far as I know the DSP is working just fine.
I checked the DSP & it's working fine.I rechecked the carb settings & they were right on too.I think the damage was done by the prior owner doing a mickey mouse fix on the fuel line which caused it to suck air.The compression reading of 140 psi when I first got the saw might've been faulty.I did another compression test today & it's not 90 psi,it's 105 psi.If the cylinder isn't scored beyond use,I think a set of rtings might possibly do the trick.
Hopefully its good Ed
This is a copy of a post I made in the McCulloch Chainsaw thread, it may be more pertinent here...
There were two different bearing and seal options used on the flywheel side of the 10 Series saws. Most have the hard to find 63429 bearing on the flywheel side with the 61618 seal that presses into the wider outer race of the bearing. Others use the same bearing and seal combination as the 600 Series saws with the 67905 bearing and 67906 seal, the bearing in narrower and the seal matches the O.D. of the bearing and presses in side by side. The two are completely interchangeable as a combination. Most 10-10 models use the 67905/67906 combination as well as other random saws along the way.
The PTO side all use the same bearing and seal, 104357 needle bearing and 110260 seal. The 60 cc and larger saws have a sleeve or insert that the bearing and seal press in to and are positioned in the crankcase with either a dowel pin (later models) or a snap ring (earlier models). On the 54 and 57 cc models the bearing and seal press directly into the bore of the crankcase.
Mark
There were two different bearing and seal options used on the flywheel side of the 10 Series saws. Most have the hard to find 63429 bearing on the flywheel side with the 61618 seal that presses into the wider outer race of the bearing. Others use the same bearing and seal combination as the 600 Series saws with the 67905 bearing and 67906 seal, the bearing in narrower and the seal matches the O.D. of the bearing and presses in side by side. The two are completely interchangeable as a combination. Most 10-10 models use the 67905/67906 combination as well as other random saws along the way.
The PTO side all use the same bearing and seal, 104357 needle bearing and 110260 seal. The 60 cc and larger saws have a sleeve or insert that the bearing and seal press in to and are positioned in the crankcase with either a dowel pin (later models) or a snap ring (earlier models). On the 54 and 57 cc models the bearing and seal press directly into the bore of the crankcase.
Mark
Are you looking for a 10-10 jug and piston? If so PM me I have one in excellent shape.
There are standard 0.020 and 0.030 over bores, but pistons and rings may be a challenge to locate. I'm pretty sure the 57cc cylinders were when the chrome plating began and wouldn't be an overbore option for a stock 10-10 cylinder.
That said, I'd be all over the offer from briguy26 as probably the easiest and most economical option -- or keep your eyes peeled for a parts saw with a good top end.
Pics of the gouged cylinder? If the grooves are below the ring travel, you may be able to salvage it.
They identify it as a 1-76 piston, but the part number reflects a .020 over 10-10.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/144248934325?epid=166679677&hash=item2195e80fb5:g:QWMAAOSwL0dhajvJ
Mark
https://www.ebay.com/itm/144248934325?epid=166679677&hash=item2195e80fb5:g:QWMAAOSwL0dhajvJ
Mark
Brother thanks for letting me know. I did find a short block NOS for the 10-10 I was just thinking about some weird science on the old jug that is currently bolted up. Didn't wanna let it go without a fight.Any thoughts on the auto oiler? BTW I did get my numbers off on the piston in the original post
Hello Mark, does Nachi still make this model of bearing? I can't quite seem to make out the model number that's lasered on that bearingThis is a copy of a post I made in the McCulloch Chainsaw thread, it may be more pertinent here...
There were two different bearing and seal options used on the flywheel side of the 10 Series saws. Most have the hard to find 63429 bearing on the flywheel side with the 61618 seal that presses into the wider outer race of the bearing. Others use the same bearing and seal combination as the 600 Series saws with the 67905 bearing and 67906 seal, the bearing in narrower and the seal matches the O.D. of the bearing and presses in side by side. The two are completely interchangeable as a combination. Most 10-10 models use the 67905/67906 combination as well as other random saws along the way.
The PTO side all use the same bearing and seal, 104357 needle bearing and 110260 seal. The 60 cc and larger saws have a sleeve or insert that the bearing and seal press in to and are positioned in the crankcase with either a dowel pin (later models) or a snap ring (earlier models). On the 54 and 57 cc models the bearing and seal press directly into the bore of the crankcase.
Mark
I left one with my favorite local bearing shop who said they could track them down...that was 3 years ago...still no new or aftermarket bearings to be found.
Mark
Mark
I recently discovered there is a Motion Industries location near me. Been meaning to visit just to see if it could actually become my 'favorite local bearing house' since everyone else seems to have one 'that can match up anything you bring in'.
This thread has been a little slow lately...I guess all of the traffic has moved to the McCulloch Chainsaws thread.
None the less I'll add a little something, the latest parts coming off the 3D printer. 83598 are the three piece sawdust screens used on the CP70L and early 7-10 models.
In order to get the grid structure to print without supports (that would require removing the supports from every grid opening) we made the grid a bit finer. OEM parts shown below.
Mark
None the less I'll add a little something, the latest parts coming off the 3D printer. 83598 are the three piece sawdust screens used on the CP70L and early 7-10 models.
In order to get the grid structure to print without supports (that would require removing the supports from every grid opening) we made the grid a bit finer. OEM parts shown below.
Mark
Attachments
Fantastic stuff Mark. I just started messing with 3D printing, and designing things in Fusion 360, so I can appreciate how much effort went into this!
With the successful printing of the square grid on the 3 piece screens I had my Engineer modify the drawing for the one piece screens and finished the first couple today. They actually look pretty good but I want to try a few additional adjustments to improve the looks of the finished product. I'll try to remember and post a few photos tomorrow.
Mark
Mark
OEM on the left, 3D printed on the right.
OEM
3D printed
It was necessary to use a smaller grid to get these to print without putting supports in every grid opening. You can still see how the extruded filament sags a little on the first horizontal layers, but at arms lengths or with the saw running you don't really notice.
Mark
OEM
3D printed
It was necessary to use a smaller grid to get these to print without putting supports in every grid opening. You can still see how the extruded filament sags a little on the first horizontal layers, but at arms lengths or with the saw running you don't really notice.
Mark
Do you still have the poulan?
3 year old post, but yes I do still have it I disassembled most of the saw to determine whether it needed bearings on the crank. I personally thought it might have too much play in they ? Although the saw did run.
Interested ? I'll send it to you for the cost of shipping.
Interested ? I'll send it to you for the cost of shipping.
can anyone tell me the procedure for taking apart the fuel tank on an sp70? I got the 4 screws out (one of them barely, had to use a heat gun and some PB Blaster) but there appears to be a heavy-duty sealant under the paint between the 2 halves. do I just cut the sealant away and pry it apart? don't want to mess it up. I can feel some crud and maybe corrosion inside and want to take care of it. also, I have some POR 15 fuel tank coating. has anyone used that successfully? thanks!
